Nice to paint in the sun, dries quicker too....

Grabbed a flap wheel from the local engineers tool place (nowhere to be found in DIY stores!) so I could clean up the bush lands on the trailing arms...


Bit of pitting but they should be fine...


Got a coat of paint on the new genuine front calipers

Before...


After...


Got a bit of paint on the outer edge of the seals, but can't see that being a prblem, it's the bits where they fold that need keeping clear - also my masking tape wouldn't stick for some reason, think they must be greased up.

Rears in paint too...


Just got the trailing arms and brake shields to finish up then it's swap time.

Trailing arms in paint

Genuine bushes pressed in

Got bored... Decided to sort the watts linkage out - ideally would wait to do this until I swap the axles on but it won't really make much difference other than having to remove the centre bolt one extra time...

Knackered ****part bushes:


Pressed out - the rattle can paint I put on last time is knackered - good old road salt:


Paint on the arms is fubar too, and the polybushes have seen better days - the bushes are OK but the centre bars are rusted up badly and a bit loose fitting. I'll probably just bang them back on until I get some replacements:


Everything got a good wire brushing, forgot to photograph the arms though:


New bushes pressed in:


Red oxide on, black paint next:

Black paint on and left out long enough to be sort of dry



And on:


Need to touch up the paint, had to racthet strap the axle to the chassis to line things up and rubbed some paint off, ah well.

Can't believe what the road salt has done to the paint on my lovely galv chassis

does seem particularly aggressive now

So, set off for work yesterday morning, 1.5 miles from home the car 'shuddered' a bit. Got to a busy T junction and laughed at the poor lady whose Meriva had broken down at the front of the queue, went round her, turned onto main road, turned off to go up a very steep road, got to blind corner on it, lost all power.

Engine would not start.

No noise from fuel pump.

Had to roll the car backwards around the bend and onto the curb - causing a bit of a constriction but no other option.

Fortunately a mate able to come and tow me home.

Karma is a bitch

Pulled the carpet up and found this... probably a result of the many years of sunroof leaks prior to me fixing them



The screws were all corroded, but they just screw into plastic so I used a pry bar to pop the plate off, it disintegrated a bit in the process, the rust was pretty bad...

Off now though - and I also peeled the rush off the carpet foam - had to peel away some of the foam to make this happen. Looks like I'll need to paint the replacement to stop the tin worm rotting it.



Cleaned off the pump and tank top so I could pull the pump to inspect it - I was thinking it might be clogged - I've had some rough running of late so suspected the injector seals might be failing.

The pump was pretty blacked up, but was from what I could tell the original - so it's done 16 years and 140K miles of service. Not bad. Forgot to take photos! (will do when I pull it to put the new one in which should arrive today!).

Picked up new injector washers & o-rings and replaced them all and also fitted the new genuine injector harness that I had kicking about - the washers weren't too bad but all the o-rings were a bit hard and flattened.

Used my usual method to pull the injectors, 6mm long allen key with a chamfer cut on the 'inside' edge of the short side. As usual, used the injector clamps only to draw the injectors back into the head, this avoids the seats getting cracked by 'ramming' them home. Also because my injectors are black top the washer fit much more snugly than later ones, this means that the washer can be hand pushed on until they bite only - if you try push them all the way home they can distort, doing it this way lets the head press them onto the injector as the clamp is tightened down. Theoretically giving the best seal.



As usual the biggest ballache was cleaning out each of the injector bores - this one is part cleaned:

Well...

What a couple of days...

Replaced with brand new VDO pump.



Went for a drive, front prop shaft failed catastrophically - managed to pull it over quick, put it in CDL, pulled remainder of prop off spline, and drove it home with spline clanging at every bump and stop.

Looks like a circlip failed, or was never fully home. I checked and regreased this prop 2 weeks ago, all was fine.

This just as I'd pulled the prop off:


Chassis and body damage - luckily not that bad due to the fast stop.


The bits:


Missing circlip:


You can see where the end cap was ejected, I found it on the road completely intact, the other side the UJ has cracked part of the cap off where it's all become too shallow in the yoke.

I've got a spare, but the UJ's are original non greased and look a bit ropey - time to get some HD ones:

Never a dull day, huh? Thank God yours is a manual box. The autos usually don't survive catastrophic prop failure. Flailing prop knocks out the aluminium case of the transmission.

Wow getting more than you fair share of landy problems lateley, not to mention having to wear those shoes, hope the damage is all superficial and soon sorted.
Was the pump expensive? Mine just came back from having a re chassis and don't know what's been disturbed but might need a pump if the other checks don't throw up the problem.

200 notes for the pump.

Shoes are my 'don't care if I'm seen in them I'm working on the car' shoes.

Bennehboy said:

200 notes for the pump.

Shoes are my 'don't care if I'm seen in them I'm working on the car' shoes.

Click to expand...

I think that's better than £120 for a duffer that will pack in in no time. Hope mine is due to them taking off the fuel filter and breaking open the system, with the new chassis landy expenses have been a bit high this month.
Keep us up to date on how the pump performs, the TD5 fuel system seems to bring more than its fair share of problems, it's nice to get any info going for future reference.

Yeah avoided the cheapo ones, heard nothing but bad news about them.

Decided to start stripping the spare prop down today...

Only to find that one of the circlip retainers was knackered.



Reckon I'll be OK to mix n match the flange over from the failed prop? Only worry I have is balance. Might have to find a prop specialist.

Saw this on t bay any good to you?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...264547?hash=item4afeca82e3:g:GNoAAOSw8vZXL-7C

I gave in and ordered a Bailey Morris extreme prop

Noticed after replacing my fuel pump that the fuel filter head had started to weep at one side, couldn't tighten or undo any of the brass fittings - and I had wanted to replace the air bleed valve so I bought a new head.

It came with a mahle filter and a new sedimenter - although my sedimenter connector is a bit corroded so I may not hook it up.



fitted


old knarly head

That's interesting, I have long suspected the filter unit to have a big part in the TD5 non starting saga, you can see where the "newness" has gone off yours, pity the fittings are stuck it would be interesting to look in the none return valve someone posted some pictures which shows it has something like the neck of a balloon inside it.
Well at least you can cross this of the list and move on.
Hope to get mine off next week and give it a good once over.