Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 16, 2016

• #781

Cleaned out the refurbed axle casings with parrafin, blew them out with air then rinse out with water, most of the muck is gone but there's still some caked on grime and a bit of grit from the blasting

Will do them again tomorrow.

Going to get cracked on with the swap this weekend.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 24, 2016

• #782

So for anyone interested....

D2 diff to axle casing bolts are M10x30mm and NOT M12 as most of the factors have them listed.

The genuine bolts were on back order - and are about 40mm long with a 10mm locating taper.

I just got 20 Durlok 12.9 flanged head bolts from the local bolt factor for 86p each - considerably cheaper than the £2 +VAT that the factors want for LR original.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 24, 2016

• #783

Was hoping to have the new one back in this evening, but the 'polybushes' axle end of the trailing arms which I was going to re-use turned out to be Britpart and are knackered...

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 25, 2016

• #784

Some more progress

Ashlocker & 3.8 KAM ratio R&P final drive built into the axle

Had to grind some of the flange off the diff bolt near where the diff casing was pegged, wouldn't fit otherwise:

Got the hubs bolted back in, new seals and plenty of copper slip:

New BearMach polybushes pressed into the trailing arms, these are 1 part bushes with a steel centre:

Arms on the axle:

Spring seats & brake shields on next and I can reattach the axle to the chassis - unfortunately there's now a thunderstorm raging.

Job going much slower than I'd hoped - got the brakes and drop links to do after that - oh and new outer polybushes for the Watts.....

.....then it's on to the front axle.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 25, 2016

• #785

Getting there...

Just got to torque up the watts linkage, fit the droplinks, put wheels back on.

Brakes will be bled once the fronts are done.

 

Last edited: Jul 5, 2016

ifloochies

Well-Known Member

• Jun 25, 2016

• #786

Bennehboy said:

Getting there...

Just got to torque up the watts linkage, fit the droplinks, put wheels back on.

Brakes will be bled once the fronts are done.

Click to expand...

Nice and shiny!!! Great job as always buddy...

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 25, 2016

• #787

Ta, and yup I like the shiny

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 26, 2016

• #788

Front came off easier than the back, left the springs and shocks tie wrapped in place...

Unfortunately both CV gaitors are in poor state, drivers side is so weak that it nicked whilst coming out the hub and is leaking grease. Need to see if I can source some replacements tomorrow then have a massive fight with them - I know these can be swines to swap out.

Military spec 4 pin & KAM 3.8 ready to go in the axle:

And in.

I also put the new axle seals in and fitted the knuckles.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 26, 2016

• #789

Found a CV gaiter in my parts box, it's in a dreaded blue packet

Got the shield off the shaft with some heat and my press - will get a fettle before it goes back on.

Cut the old bands and CV off to reveal some green tinted CV grease, scooped as much of it out as I could and packed in the new stuff after giving it a good work about

Popped the new gaiter in some hot water to make it stretch over the splines then popped it in place - improvised fitting the bands, not neat but strong. The crimps sticks out a bit, bit dubious about it going through the knuckle, might have to give it a clout with the BFH to flatten it down.

Heated up the shield and used the press to get it back on

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 27, 2016

• #790

All done now...

Had to leave some bits for another day, the nearside CV boot got superglued - couldn't source one same day to fix it properly.

Air compressor for the locker will need to be wired in when I get time.

Drives a charm, the ratio change has really helped to put the power back where it should be. Crashes and bangs from warn droplinks, bushes etc all gone. Very happy - but bone tired.

Didn't take many pics, just wanted to get done...

My wheely board broke which made getting the axle back under a right pain.

New brakes on, and the rest is history...

 

Alibro

Well-Known Member

• Jun 27, 2016

• #791

I just finished reading through the whole thread (took several days) and am amazed at the work you've done. The engine rebuild was especially interesting, you were very unlucky with the head issue. It really helps knowing I'm not the only one who struggles sometimes but then again the hard times make the successes all the sweeter.
I Just wanted to say how much I enjoyed it and thanks for sharing.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 27, 2016

• #792

Glad you enjoyed it, wish I could say the same, lol.

 

Shimsteriom

Master Procrastinator

• Jun 27, 2016

• #793

If only you had a camera crew following you throughout the whole event... that would certainly be worth watching

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 27, 2016

• #794

There'd be a lot of bleeps.

 

Shimsteriom

Master Procrastinator

• Jun 27, 2016

• #795

Bennehboy said:

There'd be a lot of bleeps.

Click to expand...

That would just add to the entertainment value

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 27, 2016

• #796

You'd get to see all the cock ups that I don't mention in here Can't be having that.

 

Shimsteriom

Master Procrastinator

• Jun 27, 2016

• #797

That's a whole bloopers DVD right there.

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 28, 2016

• #798

So, the centre diff appears to 'howl' at ~40mph now, it's fine below and fine above, noise stops if clutch dipped... so it _could_ be one of the diffs also, but my guess is that the difference in ratios, 3.75 back, 3.8 front, is causing the centre diff to work harder.

I've got an HD cross pin in there, but am worried that long motorway driving could weld the gears to the shaft! Any opinions? Nige at megasquirt told me that the difference was negligible and was equivalent to a couple PSI tyre pressure difference. I might try dropping the pressures in rear slightly to see if it compensates....

Thoughts?

 

Bennehboy

Well-Known Member

• Jun 28, 2016

• #799

Or is it the front that will need the pressure out, can't figure out which will be turning faster lol

 

Alibro

Well-Known Member

• Jun 28, 2016

• #800

Bennehboy said:

Or is it the front that will need the pressure out, can't figure out which will be turning faster lol

Click to expand...

You need a Viscus Coupling Unit in there to soak up the difference.

And a TD4 under the bonnet.

And a Freelander badge on the back.