I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a thinner jam nut for the difflock switch on my transfer case, I had to replace the switch as it was broken, but using the old jam nut I can't set the switch deep enough to close when difflock is engaged....

If I had a belt sand/wheel I'd just thin this one down (needs about 1-1.5mm off). Any ideas?

OK well easy solution, flap disk, grinder, vice... sorted now.

Gave the ITG filter a clean & oil - will change oil, filters, and rocker gasket/top hats this evening.

I also fitted a replacement key fob receiver, miracles, I can now lock/unlock from more than 2 feet away from the vehicle... like 30-40 feet away. It's never had that range so that's a good fix.

Operation shuttle valve mod complete.... best to use a pretty short allen key to get the bolts out...



Old switch was grubby but worked, so pretty confident that the connector inside the actual unit is the bit that's fubar. I've already pre-modified the wiring by extending the wires (soldered and heatshrinked the joints).



New wiring spliced into the loom (yellow/green wire) and earthed to the body - used dielectric grease on the earth.



No more 3 amigos



Needs a valet at some point.

Having a bit of a mare with reverse gear, goes into gear perfectly when engine is not running, but refuses 9 times of of 10 if it is, I've bled the clutch twice but no joy, must still be dragging. R380 was put back together with all the same parts as before, and was fine. Main difference is LOF powerslave & pioneer 4x4 slave hose. Tried leaving pedal overnight, no change.

EDIT: problem found, mulled over 'what was new' after writing this, and had a look at the pioneer cable end that connects to the clutch switch... it was loose, tiny bit of fluid there. Tightened it up and instantly better reverse, still not 100%, but better - have jammed the pedal in to see if it will gravity bleed.