PS, hope nobody sparks up near my shed

nuclear-bomb-explosion.jpg
 
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Good job

Anyway, I have heard of oven cleaner being used, also using a dish washer.
 
Parrafin cheaper than water based stuff and works a charm, I've saved all the mucky stuff and will sediment off the crap and reuse it

Love the dish washer idea, but think my wife would deffo kill me :D
 
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Parrafin cheaper than water based stuff and works a charm, I've saved all the mucky stuff and will sediment off the crap and reuse it

Love the dish washer idea, but think my wife would deffo kill me :D

The normal technique is to wait until she is out :D:D
 
Bad boy came out to remove the crank pulley bolt...
IMG_20140630_113033.jpg


Got it cracked off then used 3/4, then 1/2 breaker bar to wind it out as it got closer to the rad - I'd already lifted the bottom of the rad out of the peg holes and pushed it forward, then put a sheet of ali down to stop me punching holes in it:
IMG_20140630_113042.jpg


Pulley and damper off - dunno why I removed the 3 bolts, the timing pin in the flywheel held it solid so I didn't need to brace on those. Damper is in great shape:
IMG_20140630_113706.jpg


Viscous pulley off:
IMG_20140630_152232.jpg


Sump bolts removed, cross member off, pot jack between chassi and axle to give clearance, then the sump can slide out towards the axle:
IMG_20140630_165958.jpg


Timing cover off, vac pump drain disconnected:
IMG_20140630_165951.jpg


Timing chain, and oil pump chain, oil pump bolt is tight.
IMG_20140630_170011.jpg


Stiffener/pump assembly, no lumps or bits in the sump which is good:
IMG_20140630_170038.jpg


Broken tensioner guide and chain and sprocket off, the chain is flexing freely and not holding kinks, and there's no excessive lateral sag so it's going back in. Sprocket being replaced though - cheers Aaron!
IMG_20140630_170403.jpg


Clean up the sump and timing cover next - then just need to grab the replacement guide and sprocket and it's time to reassemble.
 
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excellent post this,well done and keep up the great work and pics.;)

Cheers, feels like a bit of an uphill struggle at the moment.

I'm seriously considering dropping the gearbox and tbox off so I can replace the rear crank seal - Gearbox rebuild isn't too far from done, just waiting on a replacement main case and I'm in no rush tbh.

Think I'm going to polish and lacquer the timing cover and sump too just for ****s n giggles :D
 
Cheers, feels like a bit of an uphill struggle at the moment.

I'm seriously considering dropping the gearbox and tbox off so I can replace the rear crank seal - Gearbox rebuild isn't too far from done, just waiting on a replacement main case and I'm in no rush tbh.

Think I'm going to polish and lacquer the timing cover and sump too just for ****s n giggles :D

if you think the seal needs doing,then do it now while you can,better now than later.at least it will give you more confidence in it when it is finally back on the road.;)
 
Yeah that's exactly my thinking - I've done the gbox and tbox on the drive before and it's hard work but managable for 2. Course it's miles easier on a 4 poster like I did last time :D
 
Would it not be easier to lift the engine out to do rear crank oil seal, Well what's left of it :p

Oh and top work :)
 
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How high does your crane lift Aaron, the slam panel isn't removable on the D2 so it'd need to go quite high... (lifted vehicle)
 
Just thinking if I borrow it and lift the lump out I can do the seal and pop it all back in and get it on the road to go do the g & t box at my mates once I have more time.
 
Cleaned up the timing cover (what a pain of a job!)...

Before:
IMG_20140630_165951.jpg


After:
IMG_20140701_132849.jpg


Sump is next, it might get a polish over with a wire brush yet:
IMG_20140701_132907.jpg
 

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