aaronmorris
Head's a shed
I'm thinking the block needs to be painted fire engine red
Like my 6bt then
Do it Other bits have come up well as well, Definitely worth the effort.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
SO now that I have borrowed an engine crane I'll be removing most of the ancillaries and lifting the lump out to give it a clean, paint, replace the rear crank seal, and perhaps have a peep at the big end and main shells.
Rad and IC pulled out in one lump (I've already removed the grill)..
PAS & Water pump unbolted and moved to one side:
Next when I get a moment I'll remove the starter and alternator.
Rad and IC pulled out in one lump (I've already removed the grill)..
PAS & Water pump unbolted and moved to one side:
Next when I get a moment I'll remove the starter and alternator.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Belt tensioner idler removed to give access to the T50 holding the alternator in place (can be seen top left of the idler) - pulley bolt is left handed thread so turn right to loosen:
T50 bolt out and the 'very grubby' alternator moved aside - anyone know if it will be OK to give this a parrafin bath?
This rear coolant hose disconnected and moved next:
CPS sensor disconnected:
Oil pressure sensor disconnected:
Starter motor off next.
After that just the two engine mount top nuts to remove (and 2 gearbox bolts) and it's ready to lift out.
T50 bolt out and the 'very grubby' alternator moved aside - anyone know if it will be OK to give this a parrafin bath?
This rear coolant hose disconnected and moved next:
CPS sensor disconnected:
Oil pressure sensor disconnected:
Starter motor off next.
After that just the two engine mount top nuts to remove (and 2 gearbox bolts) and it's ready to lift out.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
Turbo removed - just makes access simpler:
Milwaukee making childs play of the engine mount top nuts
Earth undone from tensioner housing:
Starter and 2 remaining gearbox bolts next, have just hosed the coolant out from underneath so will wait for it to dry up before going under (need a mechanics dolly).
Milwaukee making childs play of the engine mount top nuts
Earth undone from tensioner housing:
Starter and 2 remaining gearbox bolts next, have just hosed the coolant out from underneath so will wait for it to dry up before going under (need a mechanics dolly).
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How are your engine mounts Benneh? Now you've gone so far it might be a wise time to replace.
Times like this when I wish I had a second vehicle, so I could do that amount of work to my own Disco. Or even just a medium sized job without worrying if I'll get it all back together before monday!
Keep keeping up the good work.
Times like this when I wish I had a second vehicle, so I could do that amount of work to my own Disco. Or even just a medium sized job without worrying if I'll get it all back together before monday!
Keep keeping up the good work.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
you would be foolish if you did not replace stem seals and timing chain at this stage,plus check all main and big end bearings,you gave gone this far,may as well do it proper now.
It's another 220 quid for the chain/sprocket kit, so given that the chain checks out I'm just going to have to be foolish.
Stem seals don't look too expensive, but will need to borrow a spring compressor - it means I can inspect the valves and seats at least.
280 for shells and bolts, again I think I'll need to give it a miss - I'll check the crank endfloat and if it's out of tolerance will rethink on this, turners do next day delivery.
I need this to be back together and running pronto, got to get me to France and back at beginning of August.
Also just noticed the MOT expired a week ago so there's another cost as it will fail on the front right hub which is ****ing oil out so need to get that replaced.
When it rains it pours!
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
If everything is within spec, At £500 to do the chain, sprocket,shells and bolts I know what I'd be doing.
