Got me new case form Halfords! Though forgot to replace me ratchets... Next time I guess :rolleyes:

Replaced me crank sensor as well, its in such an annoying place. Why couldnt it be on the nice open other side? :rolleyes:

Starts 10x faster now, the old one was rotten and doesnt appear to be genuine... Hopefully the "high speed crank error" fault will go!



Brakes still arnt 100% but still better, going to replace both front calipers in a few months along with a few other bits.

Also looks like the gasket between the manifold and turbo is failing, soot all over the top of the join and the oil filter housing :rolleyes::rolleyes: such a pita to replace! No soot around the block tho so no warping :D:D
 
Ahhhhh stuck on bumper choices again! I saw Equipe 4x4s pics from a show in Italy, looks like they have added a sort of A Bar to the modular bumper, while it wont fit my Lightforce spots it will fit some small LED bars.



Plus there is space for 4 more small spot/fog lamps within the bumper itself so wouldnt be short on front lighting!

Looks good ay?

Been reading the "home made bullbars" thread as well, slightly put me off bullbars they look great but in the event of a crash id rather not do potential chassis (or otherwise) damage caused by having a big ass bumper up front!
 
Brake dilemma continues! :confused::confused::confused:

Pedal was going almost to the floor again and required a couple quick pumps to get a hard pedal back. So bled it again, did a full manual bleed, a full power bleed using the Nanocom (eventually worked it out) loads of air came out when doing this + 1L of fluid, then modulator bleed 5 times and another manual bleed.

Could not get the rears to power bleed at all though and as fair as I could tell the was no air coming out so there must still be some trapped! The pedal is better but still not ideal :(:(

Going to have the local garage use a proper pressure bleeder hopefully get rid of the bloody air!
 
bankz5152 said:
Brake dilemma continues! :confused::confused::confused:

Pedal was going almost to the floor again and required a couple quick pumps to get a hard pedal back. So bled it again, did a full manual bleed, a full power bleed using the Nanocom (eventually worked it out) loads of air came out when doing this + 1L of fluid, then modulator bleed 5 times and another manual bleed.

Could not get the rears to power bleed at all though and as fair as I could tell the was no air coming out so there must still be some trapped! The pedal is better but still not ideal :(:(

Going to have the local garage use a proper pressure bleeder hopefully get rid of the bloody air!
Click to expand...
Old school trick that sometimes works =>

Put a heavy block on the brake pedal over night or rig up one of those one handed DIY clamps that can be turned into spreaders (instead of a clamp) to apply the pedal and push at the other end against the under side of the dashboard (for example). This sometimes encourages air to the top of the system and (sometimes) helps to make a firmer pedal in the morning.

(As you can see there are lots of "sometimes" but sometimes it works!)
 
Cheers! I've actually got a block of wood cut to the exact length of maximum pedal pressure, to "lock the brakes" in place when doing some jobs! Ill give it a go cheers!
 
Back to France on Friday to Marquenterre! First time in the 110 too, very much looking forward to it! Not got that much time this week so already started loading up the landy and its full and theres more to go in!

20170502_195205_zpsfcnxhj8r.jpg


Though I do have a big butane tank in there and a mini BBQ! I've left some space for beer and that coolbox is just for beer. Got the Waeco one on the rear seats full of food and another smaller one for road drinks/milk/snacks. Only a tiny amount of space left for our actual bags! The tents and table have to go on the boot lid with ratchet straps, lucky I got the lashing bars ay? :D
 
Dropped off at a local indy to pressure bleed the brakes! Heres hoping i get a better pedal!

If not then im pretty lost as to where to go next....
 
Stretch said:
You're so keen to spend money on this project - if it makes you feel better you can paypal me a nice fat sum and then use the block of wood!
Click to expand...

Well for £40 its hardly an enourmous expendature for a grotty job ive already done 3 times now...
 
bankz5152 said:
Well for £40 its hardly an enourmous expendature for a grotty job ive already done 3 times now...
Click to expand...
I'm just pulling your leg. It is obvious to me you're enjoying yourself - I hope little hiccups like brake bleeding don't spoil the fun.

If you'd like some other suggestions (that won't be jokey) I can post up a few more tricks
 
Haha sorry didnt get it :rolleyes:

Yup! I do love doing it!

Back from the garage, there was air trapped in the left caliper, that was it. They checked the whole system, no leaks they could find.

Pedal is better but still not amazing... At least not as good as my 90 was..
 
Regarding the CPS sensor, the shielded twisted pair cable to it degrades over time, I made up a new cable using STP and econoseal pins from t'internet and have had no further problems on mine. Might also be worth considering if your cable looks a bit knarly.
 
Bennehboy said:
Regarding the CPS sensor, the shielded twisted pair cable to it degrades over time, I made up a new cable using STP and econoseal pins from t'internet and have had no further problems on mine. Might also be worth considering if your cable looks a bit knarly.
Click to expand...

I saw yout posts on that good idea, havny seen the condition lf the cables, not enough access. Though ill check when I do the snorkle
 
Back from France! Well almost... blew the front diff toward the end of day....

Dropped the prop and managed to ease it back to the Eurotunnel and get a big yellow taxi home!

Luckily got a spare diff at home, just got to strip everything and check the CVs/shafts are alright.
 
bankz5152 said:
Back from France! Well almost... blew the front diff toward the end of day....

Dropped the prop and managed to ease it back to the Eurotunnel and get a big yellow taxi home!

Luckily got a spare diff at home, just got to strip everything and check the CVs/shafts are alright.
Click to expand...

Were you playing a little too rough?

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Were you playing a little too rough?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Supprisingly not, it broke on an easy section of the course, was rocking it back and forth to try and get free after I buried myself then the diff let go.

Someone has a video of it I think, ill post it up when I get it.

Other than that was a brilliant day! 110 smashed hill climbs the 90 couldnt do, but the map needs adjusting. Flat spots at the top end in 2nd
 
Bennehboy said:
This in low range? Only reason I ask is most of the tuners only alter the tune for high range, not sure about Jose though.
Click to expand...

Yeah, when my 90 was mapped by Dynachip that was massive power high, low didnt matter just flew. Though thinking about it now the flat spots remain when in high range just not quite as noticeable as you don't spend much time in second driving around.

Surely mapping would be the same whether in high range or low as its a mechanical change not an electrical one?

At points when trying some climbs in second it would get to about 3,600 rpm full boost, then cut boost to 10psi and bounce back up giving a surging effect which made it quite tough to climb simple hills.
 
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