raywin
Well-Known Member
I may be wrong about re the balance only working on tick over, I did some searching and it could be that it works to compensate for injector balance at all running conditions.
I looked at the graphs of mine during normal running and they seem mostly even but there are some spikes ( could be electrical glitches)
The tool that Huffhuff found online is great for this.
By the way attached a document I found there also.
I looked at the graphs of mine during normal running and they seem mostly even but there are some spikes ( could be electrical glitches)
The tool that Huffhuff found online is great for this.
By the way attached a document I found there also.
DurhamGary
New Member
Am I too late for this offer?
With the cylinder balance values, I notice that they tend to get larger on the overrun - if you've been revving it and then suddenly take your foot off the accelerator. I assume it's trying to stabilise the engine speed. So on mine it works throughout the rev range.
huffhuff
Well-Known Member
Here is a more up-to-date and comprehensive guide. It seems to have gone from 5 pages you gave to 15. Available in the downloads section on nanocom site http://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/documentation.php (with loads of other useful stuff)
Anybody know what the nanocom would show if your crank sensor was squiffy?
raywin
Well-Known Member
I suppose that when the engine is on overrun it is no longer being controlled by the fuelling of the cylinders and just running free as it coasts down, so seeing the variations in speed as it runs down the ECU will be franticly sending signals to try and correct the variations.
I did a couple of runs on mine and it was interesting to see the manifold pressure and temperature at different loads, the intake temp hits 35 C which means with an ambient of about 21 C the temp difference is 14 wonder if the intercooler is a bit oily, started me thinking again about diverting the engine breather into a catch can and then venting the outlet into the chassis, might kill two birds with one stone, or possibly two cyclists waiting at traffic lights.
Intake pressure is max 206 kpa so looks like the turbo is working.
Air flow at tick over is 57 but hits a max of just under 400 which seems low, I fitted a new MAF sensor last year and now I am worried.
Max engine revs hit about 2600 rpm during the run, and I am finding it interesting to see the revs through the gears I had no idea on revs before.
Re the crank sensor I don't think it is included unless the tick over cylinder corrections were all wild which may say its not getting a clean signal, from what I have read this sensor is a real show stopper and if it is not working correctly its hard or even impossible to start the engine.
Yes, the temperatures I get seem well above the surrounding weather, even when you've just started the engine and you'd think they'd be lower. I suppose the main thing is that they will indicate relative change - you can see them going up as the engine warms up.
I used to think, based on what I'd read online, that the crank position sensor was all or nothing - either it was working and the engine ran or it wasn't and it wouldn't fire up at all. However, I discovered in the autumn of 2013 that I was getting a regular 'high speed crank error' code logged, and that the cylinder balance values were very large whilst I was driving - in the 20s in some cases. I fitted a new (non Britpart) crank position sensor and the error no longer appeared and the cylinder balance values were much smaller. So the good thing about having a Nanocom is that you can sometimes pick up these faults before they leave you stranded at the side of the road.
I used to think, based on what I'd read online, that the crank position sensor was all or nothing - either it was working and the engine ran or it wasn't and it wouldn't fire up at all. However, I discovered in the autumn of 2013 that I was getting a regular 'high speed crank error' code logged, and that the cylinder balance values were very large whilst I was driving - in the 20s in some cases. I fitted a new (non Britpart) crank position sensor and the error no longer appeared and the cylinder balance values were much smaller. So the good thing about having a Nanocom is that you can sometimes pick up these faults before they leave you stranded at the side of the road.
raywin
Well-Known Member
That's interesting on the crank sensor, Did you feel any difference in the engine or was it just a tiny difference?
Regarding the air temp it heats the air when you compress it and hopefully the inter cooler takes out that heat, and restore the air density. all coolers have what's called a CTD or cold temperature differential. It's the difference between the temp of the cooling medium and the discharge temperature of the substance being cooled, it's a measure of the cooler efficiency so if the inlet air at the manifold is 35 and the ambient air going through the rad is 21 CTD is 14. If the cooler gets dirty then the efficiency will go down, I recon my inter cooler is not doing its best at the moment if I get time would be interesting to clean it inside and out and check again.
huffhuff
Well-Known Member
Earlier today I had the grill off to make some brackets to mount my light bar. I accidentally rubbed my knuckles across the intercooler and the fins just flaked off...
I guess I'll start saving for an allisport
No symptoms in terms of how it ran, just that error code and big balance values. Yes, it would be interesting to see what kind of dirt is in my intercooler. I don't suppose it has been cleaned out in its life. I do all the other servicing, honest, but I've not got round to cleaning the intercooler out.
raywin
Well-Known Member
My main rad did that when I took it out last year, at that point they are pretty well knackered so I put in a new one, but I think the engine cooling system is over capacity so you don't notice so much, especially with summers like this.Earlier today I had the grill off to make some brackets to mount my light bar. I accidentally rubbed my knuckles across the intercooler and the fins just flaked off...
I guess I'll start saving for an allisport
Intercooler probably has more of an effect on the engine but perhaps you don't notice it coming on gradually.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Would be good to do a run and record it on an SD card, before and after, see how much it changes. Last year mine was quite oily but I understand the TD5 is known to vent a bit of oil, gave mine a wash last year as it was out when I did the clutch flywheel, but seems to be not so great again now with a CTD of 14, has anyone else looked at the numbers to compare? I took the ambient reading as the air temp when I started the engine, it was 21.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Yes it works
Very interesting your readings along the edge show a higher air flow than mine at 433 at 2211 rpm
any chance you could send me the file so I can compare it to the ones I have made?
huffhuff
Well-Known Member
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raywin
Well-Known Member
Cheers looking at this mine is quite different I need to do more testing.
huffhuff
Well-Known Member
Well maybe we should agree on test parameters. X minute journey traveling at y speed.
Although saying that, my car isn't 'stock'. It's been remapped, EGR blanked, straight through exhaust, waste gate tweaked and snorkel. So maybe they will always be different results.
LandyMan
Well-Known Member
I recorded my nanocom stuff on the way to work when I 1st got it. Since then I have added a snorkel and I will be blanking the EGR soon and giving the intake manifold a good clean. I will record again after all that work has been done and compare the results. Then I will do a remap and test again. Then I'll do an engine oil service and test again. I will post them on here if anyone is interested. thanks
