Just put her tumble drier back in the conservatory and claim your garage back
I reckon a lot of garages on newer houses are called garages, but are for no more than the washing machine, drier and a couple of bikes!
Had a lazier day than I should have today and didn't tidy the garage.
Drilled the spacer plate I'm having to make and cut the slots in with a junior hacksaw.
Bought some really cheap drill bits before Christmas and they were a lovely golden colour. I now know why they were gold, it's because they are made of butter. What a pain, lesson learned re false economy.
Hoping to get it galvanised this week.I was hoping the 90 degree connectors I bought for the fuel tank would fit inside the sub pipe to try and save space, but it won't.
It's looking like I'll need to cut the steel and plastic pipes down to leave enough to get a jubilee clip on each end. I don't want to cut the pipe down just yet. I think I'll wait until the snows gone so I can lie on my back under the Landy and weigh up the options a bit more.
Not without cutting the pipe down. There's not much room between the end of the pipe and the underside of the tub, maybe 10mm-15mm max. It's a pain that it doesn't line up with the hole. That's an interesting idea though, Discokids. Cheers!
Well, the outrigger spacer piece I made is at the galvanisers. It'll be ready on Thursday afternoon, if I can get down to Newcastle to get it.
Started work on the tunnel and floor panels today.It was slow going because it was nithering caad oot, as we say up here. Still snow lying about, but it a clear day so wanted to get something done. The bitumen based sealant I wanted to use where the sills bolt to the bulkhead was too stiff to squeeze out with the mastic gun! I had to heat it up in the mircrowave
Got new screw plugs in to the bulkhead and foam sealant stuck on for the floor panels to seal on to.
I had to sand each screw block down a bit as they were too big to go in the galved holes .
Got the tunnel mounting section screwed on with stainless screws and washers.
The old foam sealant on the tunnel is pretty thick and I don't have any that thick, so that stopped the job. Should have checked earlier
I've ordered some off ebay, but won't be here till Friday.
Started work on the tunnel and floor panels today.It was slow going because it was nithering caad oot, as we say up here. Still snow lying about, but it a clear day so wanted to get something done. The bitumen based sealant I wanted to use where the sills bolt to the bulkhead was too stiff to squeeze out with the mastic gun! I had to heat it up in the mircrowave
Got new screw plugs in to the bulkhead and foam sealant stuck on for the floor panels to seal on to.
I had to sand each screw block down a bit as they were too big to go in the galved holes .
Got the tunnel mounting section screwed on with stainless screws and washers.
The old foam sealant on the tunnel is pretty thick and I don't have any that thick, so that stopped the job. Should have checked earlier
I've ordered some off ebay, but won't be here till Friday.
Yeah, it's a great saw. It's never been a problem. Keep the chain sharp and it goes through stuff like butter.
The kayak belongs to my eldest son. He lives and breathes rugby, but had to take a few years out after snapping his cruciate ligament. He took up kayaking while waiting for his leg to recover from the op. I've got a 16' canoe and used to take the lads out in that and so I think that led him in to it. Having said that, as soon as he got the ok he was back to the rugby. The kayak hasn't been used for about 4 years.
The kayak belongs to my eldest son. He lives and breathes rugby, but had to take a few years out after snapping his cruciate ligament. He took up kayaking while waiting for his leg to recover from the op. I've got a 16' canoe and used to take the lads out in that and so I think that led him in to it. Having said that, as soon as he got the ok he was back to the rugby.
The kayak hasn't been used for about 4 years.
50 is the new 30! I'm over 50 too! Come to think of it, I feel about 65, so that 50 is the new 30 stuff is rubbish
Did some more work on the floors this afternoon. Decided I better get the accelerator cable fixed in because its right below the gap between the bonnet seal and the wing where water runs down, through the hole and it to the foot well.
Looking at exploded diagrams shows a nut and washer that goes on the end of the cable to tighten it to the bulkhead.
Mine just has ribs on it. No threads! Anyway, any nut that would fit have fit it wouldn't have gone over the end that the pivot pin goes through.
It must have had some sort of clip on it, but I can't remember.
So, I had to improvise and make my own clip out of a bit of plastic I cut off the end of a body filler spreader.
Worked a treat
Got all the self adhesive foam tape in place to seal the floor plates. I've just lain the plates in for now until some thicker foam arrives for the gear box tunnel.
Then I'll be able to shuffle them around a bit to try and get every hole lined up. It's already looking like I'll have to drill new holes along the front of the plates as they don't line up with the holes in the galved bulkhead. (I should mention that on the Ashtree thread)
Don't know why but I hadn't put the front door seals on yet, so thought I'd do that. I remember someone asking about the YRM tub front repair and how it affects the seals so I took some pics.
Seal went on no bother and I think it will be fine.
Much better than on to the bulkhead seam!
This is obviously where it was welded up. (I must mention that in the Ashtree thread
)Anyway, is it only me who buys doors shaped like a banana?
The back door's the same.
Not sure what to do with them as I'm not keen on bending them in case the paint cracks.
TorsionBhudda
Well-Known Member
There does seem to be a bit off a bow in your door. Whats it like when fully latched shut?
No, I wish I had. Never thought of it at the time. I had them plastic coated and thought I was being clever
Everything has gone galv crazy since then. I'm hoping the plastic coated frame lasts a long time. Hopefully, a lot longer than a standard door..That is fully latched, mate
I'm yet to try moving the latch further in though. Having said that, the top and bottom of the door are curved in so much I think I might struggle to get the latch to pull in. I think I'm going to have to force the door to try and straighten it up. Not looking forward to doing it though.
TorsionBhudda
Well-Known Member
Just take it slow and gentle adjust it a little at a time and hopefully it will straighten out and paint will be okNo, I wish I had. Never thought of it at the time. I had them plastic coated and thought I was being clever
That is fully latched, mate
Hopefully, it doesn't come to that. However, I might fall back on that as a last resort.
I don't think they are meant to be like that, James! I know it's a Defender and all that
I will be spending some time adjusting the catch and probably the packing pieces in the hinges. Fingers crossed.
Yep, that cost quite a bit of money. It's certainly not great and the seal doesn't sit the best. I think it will seal though, at least at that hinge side. Obviously, the catch side is another story
Got my home-made chassis packing piece back from the galvanisers on Friday and while I was away over the weekend some other bits turned up.
The tick foam tape is for the gear box tunnel as the original stuff wasn't in good enough condition to reuse.
The plastic screws are to fix the door bottom seals on. I didn't fancy putting rivets in to my plastic coated door frames. (probably just me being soft and over cautious)
I though the galvanising would be dead cheap given the size of the piece. Had forgotten the minimum order of £18
Once I'd calmed down I thought, well at least I don't have to worry about paint breaking down and it starting to rust in a few years time. I keep saying this to myself
Quick post before the rugby.
Got home from work last night before dark, so thought I'd get my outrigger packing piece in.
It's 12mm plate and a nice snug fit. I'm thinking that Richards set their chassis up to imperial measurements and my tubular outrigger is 1/2 inch out. I think I'll put dinitrol on the packing piece, so that it's not so obvious. I know it's up the wheel arch, but I want to pretend it's not there
Supporting the Welsh lads tonight. Hopefully, they'll clean the French lads out
Got home from work last night before dark, so thought I'd get my outrigger packing piece in.
It's 12mm plate and a nice snug fit. I'm thinking that Richards set their chassis up to imperial measurements and my tubular outrigger is 1/2 inch out. I think I'll put dinitrol on the packing piece, so that it's not so obvious. I know it's up the wheel arch, but I want to pretend it's not there
Supporting the Welsh lads tonight. Hopefully, they'll clean the French lads out
Had a few things to do this morning and so didn't get started until after 1pm.
Decided to fix an elbow on the breather tube of the tank. I cut one of the plastic elbows, I'd bought, down to size and then looked at the stub tube on the tank. I couldn't bring myself to saw it off. Decided to some measuring up again to see if I could get everything to line up. It looked like it should so I pushed the vent tube through the body and connected it to the tank. Lifted the tank up on my knee and of course it would not go in to place. Sill rail needs to come out again. Tremendous!
Once the sill rail was out again the tank did pull in on the bolts, but the vent tube is bent a bit.
It's not kinked enough to prevent flow, though.
Bolted the filler pipe in with stainless fixings, bit I think it needs a surround on it. YRM do one, but I'm not sure I want the YRM one.
I think I might have to cut the vent tube pipe down a bit.
It's rubbing on the bracing bar which won't do either any good.
Sprayed the packing piece with dinitrol.
Took the picture when it was wet, so it should be less obvious when it dries. That's sad, I know!
Decided to fix an elbow on the breather tube of the tank. I cut one of the plastic elbows, I'd bought, down to size and then looked at the stub tube on the tank. I couldn't bring myself to saw it off. Decided to some measuring up again to see if I could get everything to line up. It looked like it should so I pushed the vent tube through the body and connected it to the tank. Lifted the tank up on my knee and of course it would not go in to place. Sill rail needs to come out again.
Tremendous!Once the sill rail was out again the tank did pull in on the bolts, but the vent tube is bent a bit.
It's not kinked enough to prevent flow, though.
Bolted the filler pipe in with stainless fixings, bit I think it needs a surround on it. YRM do one, but I'm not sure I want the YRM one.
I think I might have to cut the vent tube pipe down a bit.
It's rubbing on the bracing bar which won't do either any good.
Sprayed the packing piece with dinitrol.
Took the picture when it was wet, so it should be less obvious when it dries.
That's sad, I know! 
