If you go for the 215 you can weld 8mm + you will prob get a better duty cycle, though I only really notice it on thicker stuff and longer runs.
 
Only doing bumpers/winch trays and chassis repair in my spare time so not too bad, wont need a huge cycle but the longer the better I suppose

Been looking at the cycle/power and they only go up to 160A on the 185 so would need a fairly slow pass or two passes on the thick stuff I'd think, was going to buy a tig and keep practicing as I prefer the idea of a little more prep and no clean up however that being said you cant beat the usability of a mig!
 
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If you are doing fab work on thicker stuff make yourself one of these, don't cost much and bends 6mm nice and neat. I have drawings somewhere if anybody want a copy.

P8133902.jpg
 
I did see that when you first put it up, looks like a good little thing as I usually get the thick stuff bent up by someone local so it costs a few quid
 
I made all the bracket you can see on here with it one of the best tools I have made.

P8233983.jpg
 
May have to add it into my collection too :p



think a slightly wider one though so I can do full pieces if I can find a jack large enough to allow
 
Yep when you are doing a job and just need to knock up a quick bracket and that is sitting on the bench it makes life easy and a neat job too. you can make two folds within an inch of each other and it has a pass through hole, also the split die has shims in between the two half's which I take out for 2 mm.
 
Do you mean like the panhard rod mounting in the pic. Obviously it has it's limitations but a good tool none the less. I would like a box and pan folder but don't spose I will get one but am thinking about making a 36" folding brake.
 
Do you mean like the panhard rod mounting in the pic. Obviously it has it's limitations but a good tool none the less. I would like a box and pan folder but don't spose I will get one but am thinking about making a 36" folding brake.

yeah like that i.e. one wide end one narrow end :)


I use a lever bending one rather than hydraulic so its a bit of effort on thicker stuff and useless once you get past 4mm due to its size
 
The build is looking as good as ever. Keep up the good great work.

Thanks for the comment. I am quite pleased with the front panel, I do like early series 1's.
I got stuck with the building of the gear box as I can't source an output seal for the rear and have to get a new seal collar made.
 
Hi Guys.
I have finally managed to get topside the exhaust. There is still a bit to do but just straight forward stuff, I just need some clamps and heatwrap and a spot of fettling.
I ended up purchasing a roll of stainless for the MIG and then made my own "Y" collector. So now the system is in and on it's mountings.





 
Next I think I will do the gearbox. I couldn't get an off the shelf rear output seal for the shaft that I had made so Johnny Curt made me a larger collar so a stock seal will fit, So thanks JC. It's actually a better finish than the one the gear cutter made.

 
Well quite a few folks told me that the PG1 from a Freelander had a bellhousing that had many bolt holes covering all options of engine IE one housing fits all, They do have many bolt holes but they still don't bolt up to a KV6 :(
So I have to build the box up in the KV case. The KV has the same heavy duty bearings so no prob there but the Freelander spool sticks out the front of the case so I will have to machine that down, also the spool is on taper bearings where the KV diff is on ball bearings but they look the same OD so hopefully it's just a matter of shimming up.

 
Right I have got the gearbox built and bolted in, also I made up some gear cable brackets and modified the quadrant that fits on the selector shaft and all gears can be selected :banana: another milestone passed.
In the pic you can see the LT 230 drive flange, also I have altered the clutch slave bracket to take a metal slave instead of the plastic thing fitted as standard.

Everything on this motor seems to be a mission requiring fabrication or machining and the bulkhead and floor are no different, so many things to work around in a tight space.

Today I have made a couple of engine side panels. I'm trying to fit them close to the engine to give the occupants room but still leaving room for air flow, also no sharp corners. They are also bolt in for quick access to the engine and box.



 
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We spent yesterday after the team recovery trying to adjust a seriously bodged handbrake took several attempts and as nothing fitted or worked you couldn't even get the handbrake drum off if you wanted to without lowering the gearbox mounts as it hits the A frame x member!!

After that I want my old trils hack to be simple and easy
As ever love the work owl!!
 

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