Well been welding again today and I was getting warm so I turned my heater off, carried on welding but was still getting a sweat on, I flipped me mask up and noticed that my arm pit was on fire :eek:. luckily I had welding gloves on so beat the flames out but was still getting hot and then saw that me arse was a flame:mad2: so put that out and stripped off PDQ. I had burnt through 3 layers but no blisters phew.

Anyway I made the door frames with S1 style hinges and anti burst latches. Then I made the rear body frame.
Then I noticed that the vertical tube at the back of the door aperture would look better lent back to match the main hoop so I cut it out and redid it.
I then started making the frames to hold the door nets which are now mandatory but a good idea anyway (as I know from bitter experience) but then Sunday lunch was ready so tools down for the day.

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Fire proof overalls on your santa Christmas list

Been following this build from the start and it looks like its coming on nicely
 
Ok i'm not working on the motor this weekend as I was in work yesterday and we are out and about today (Mums day) but SWMBO is having a lie in so I nipped down the workshop and took a few pic's as I have finally got the gearbox shaft from the gear cutters. (only took 5 months)
No I'm not entirely happy with the shaft, the first shaft made wasn't long enough as it needed to be extended at the front output to clear the crank sensor which was on the drawing but ignored, so a second shaft had to be made which for some reason they made it longer front and rear which wasn't on the drawing but done anyway but what with one thing and another I don't want to wait for them to make a third shaft so I will go with this one.

The shaft coverts a PG1 box to accept LT230 output flanges. Now I can build the box, finish the gear linkage and fabricate the last gearbox mounting.

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I also picked up some panels. I will use the wings to make some moulds so I will be able to make new wings as I break them also I will strengthen them in the impact areas.
as for the bonnet I will remove the steel frame and reshape the front edge more like a series one.

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Nice!!!

A series 1 hybrid looks the part and yours certainly looks nice

Have you got any idea of finished weight??

See you at the nats if not this year next!! Ill be in an old hack of a trialer bouncing everywhere!!!
 
jai_landrover said:
Nice!!!

A series 1 hybrid looks the part and yours certainly looks nice

Have you got any idea of finished weight??

See you at the nats if not this year next!! Ill be in an old hack of a trialer bouncing everywhere!!!
Click to expand...

LOL I'm sure your motor is way better than the impression you give out, just like that motor in two lane blacktop just trying to lull others into a false sense of security.

I don't know on finished weight. the chassis was light I could pick it up on me Todd (before the cage was fitted), axles are D2, the gearbox is 35 kilo and two of us can pick the engine up so it won't be a porker.

I will get it weighed when near finished so I can get the springs made, I think I will go with a spring frequency of around 1.4Hz on the front then the rear needs to be softer with stiffer shocks to cut down on the bucking over bumps.

Yup I will look you up at the Nats I may go this year to have a look at the trial and hope to be competing at the next one.
 
Talking about weighing, as corner weight scales are so expensive I am on the lookout for a couple of small bottle jacks that I can fit a pressure gauge to, then if I know the area of the piston I can lift each axle just of the ground and work out the weight of my motor and set corner weights etc.
 
Lol no mine is that shed. Zero money an no workshop means everything is just added to an already old and tired trialer probably from the 60's. it's got a newly rebuilt v8 just rebuilt nothing special. Sals back axle and later series III front it looks battered well it is battered! Only modification i want is to fit cv in the front axle and hd shafts I have a 4 pin and ashcroft hd cwp for it. But time money and weather are not great at mo brought first house, getting married means the offroader is way down the list!!

Projects like yours perks me up because there are so many abortions about usually throwing serious money into a **** heap on all the wrong bits to
my mind pretend cages. each to their iwn and all that but if someone says hey look what im making you don't know weather to laugh **** take or feel sorry for the guy. Least of all be honest!! Your comp motor is great a proper alrc awdc comp motor that's very very nice!!

Can only hope that one day I poses a decent workshop and have gained half the skills you have to put a decent motor together!

Jai
 
Lol I wish!! Isn't it always the way when there is two of you things get done so much quicker even if your not working in the same motor it defies all logic but somehow it works!!
 
Well Jai some folk do get carried away but I think generally in the clubs competitors find their way, as you say a bit of **** taking and some sound advice and the ones that want to do well soon figure out what is needed and what to avoid.

If people want to spend big bucks on a turn key motor I don't have a problem with that if you have the cash why not and as you know under ALRC reg's big money don't guarantee success.

Yes occasionally I do see a motor that has had ££££ spent on the build but won't work or be reliable, I was at a mates a few months back and a lad turned up in a newly built TD5 hybrid, the steering was binding in the UJ's, the front shock mounts would snap off on the first comp and the rear shocks were topped out at normal ride height (new King 2.5's all round) so he went into my mates workshop and the steering was redone and he was sent away to to sort the rest.

That is what grass roots clubs are for or at least how our club is. If you have a breakdown during an event it is likely a competitor will lend you the spares and even help with the repair even though you may beat them. long may it last.
 
Agree completly

It's the lr spirit help and get stuck in!!

I must admit that I was an awdc person and didnt get the supposidly anal alrc regs but im a convert now the awdc had a similar attitude but the alrc clubs are more localised especially as foot and mouth hit and numbers tool a big drop. Mucho **** taking and a willingness to alwus help others is always fun. The nationals is key to me being a member I admit I haven't currently got a compliant motor this hybrid wreck will see me through until I can sort a decent coiler probably 88/89 as an all rounder some point in the future.
 
Hi all. Been doing the gearbox today no pic as not much to see but I have made the door frames and fitted antiburst latches. the bottom part of the door will be skined then a capping and then a panel along the bottom of the door top.
Iv'e been trying to get the Mrs to make me some webbing to go in the top but she hasn't shown much interest as yet:confused:
I also did the seat belt mountings today and test fitted a belt.
There is a whole heap of little bits and bobs that need doing, I think it is getting to the point when it will look the same for a long time.

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Hi all, Iv'e been getting fed up with looking at the wooden front panel and been itching to do some body work so today i have dusted of my panel beating kit and made one.
I have made it out of steel as it supports the wings and bonnet. If I made it out of anything else I would have to make up a frame to mount it on so steel it is.

I would like an early 80" grill but they is too dear so I am on the lookout for some series grills to make one out of, if any of you guys have any you don't want silly money for ;)
would like a couple of series grill badges too.

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how do you find it ?

I was set to get a giant murex single phase machine but the seller backed out, how does it stack up when welding heavy stuff around 6mm ?

I know the butters I use doesn't lay down the prettiest weld but its properly strong, is this the same ? (then again that might be the 1mm wire)
 
I have welded 6mm with it just fine and it is great on thin stuff too (15 amp min) has a nice Swedish wire feed. 12 Voltage settings for very fine power adjustment & wire speed automatically adjusted to the voltage settings. Burn-Back is built-in and optimised for all settings. I have had it a few years and no prob's. I haven't used a butters so can't compare but have heard good things about them too. I went for the Portamig because it is British made out of quality parts and no body had anything bad to say on the forums.
 
I'm tempted to buy one now, Murex are the dogs bollocks when it comes to welders from what I've read but they demand a huge premium too

I've had a search on google and as you say they get a good review! Seen some of the welds people have been laying down with them on thin stuff and it doesn't seem to blow through or anything.

Would you suggest the 185 or is it worth going up to the next model ?

Also have you tried it on half inch or 3/4 ?
 
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