The main reason I am trying it is I don't have a TIG and I don't want rough weld on the inside of the pipe joints which would cause turbulence, also I want long sweeping bends where possible.
I saw an old guy on the net who could make the most fantastic tight bends very close together using this method so I know it can be done just I can't do tight bends.
It is just the first bend out of the head that is tight so I may just buy them, tack them up and take the manifolds and get them TIG welded.
 
Hi Guys, Not posted for a while as I have been collecting stuff for the project plus doing jobs on the house.
Well in the end with the exhaust manifolds I made a few sweeping bends by sand fill and heating in my forge, then I got a box of mandrel bends made up. As for welding I did a few test welds and found that if I did a tight butt joint and turned the mig up quite high then welded the joints with a series of overlapping spot welds I got good penetration but still nice and smooth inside.
First job was to make some collectors so I made a tool to hold the tube in my chop saw and made two cuts at 120 deg and then welded the three pipes together.

P1276523_zps2f98b941.jpg


P1276526_zps3947ca10.jpg


P1276528_zps42b7c196.jpg
 
Then I cut up the bends and tacked up the manifolds making sure all the primary pipes were the same length and that the manifold could be fitted and removed without taking the car to bits.

P2206533_zpse742ca3a.jpg


P2206539_zpse4e57a61.jpg


P2206541_zps5d8f4323.jpg
 
and here they are fitted on the car. Next is to make the "Y" pipe which should be easier.
I have also rebuilt all four brake calipers and fitted new discs and pads all round plus braided brake lines on the front. The rears I ordered weren't long enough so need to order some more :rolleyes:

P2206543_zps230ebfd8.jpg


P2206548_zps85891285.jpg
 
I've just realised your headers are going in reverse like TVR ones :)

where are you planning on exiting it from ?
 
sounds nice that :)

I'm going for straight pipe from manifold then a 4 or 6 inch home made cherry bomb on either side which exits behind each rock slider. Gonna be loud and hopefully spit fire :p
 
Dr_evil said:
sounds nice that :)

I'm going for straight pipe from manifold then a 4 or 6 inch home made cherry bomb on either side which exits behind each rock slider. Gonna be loud and hopefully spit fire :p
Click to expand...

I did that to a series one V8 86" I had and it was loud and used a lot more fuel too.
 
owl said:
Should do that, mine with overdrive and 3.5 diffs could eek out 30 on a run
Click to expand...

I'm on an R380 or will be soon, EFI flapper and soon to be Dana 50's or Landcruiser axles depending on what I can lay me hands on first :) May swap out the diffs for 3.54's while I'm waiting though
 
Dr_evil said:
I'm on an R380 or will be soon, EFI flapper and soon to be Dana 50's or Landcruiser axles depending on what I can lay me hands on first :) May swap out the diffs for 3.54's while I'm waiting though
Click to expand...

How about C303's

T-rock12_zps55d7378d.jpg


Or better still keep it Rover and do some trials in it, See how good you are:)
DSC02381_zpsf9760c52.jpg
 
owl said:
How about C303's

T-rock12_zps55d7378d.jpg


Or better still keep it Rover and do some trials in it, See how good you are:)
DSC02381_zpsf9760c52.jpg
Click to expand...

Them 303's look nice :) may even see about Mog axles :D


But the trails look interesting, quite a few in my area plus grizedale rally
 
Go trialling loads of fun, plenty of banter and it will make you a better driver. It takes a while to get competitive but well worth it, you can start off in novice until you start picking up trophy's then you will get moved up with the grown ups :)
 
Cool :) well I've just seen a Dodge 100 axle of a 1977 pickup so bidding on that ;)

See if I can get a pair! Be nice strong axles and have discs which is my main reason for upgrading axles, not a fan of drums
 
Nowrt wrong with drums just lazy owners!!! If you compete you will be stripping each corner after each event anyhow just for a quick once over clean and re-adjust the brakes etc
 
R380 isnt amazing tho the effort involved I'd not bother. Depends what your building an everyday motor, or a comp motor or a P&P hack. I'd stick with a 101 bellhousing'd 4 speed LT95 personally for out and out strength and reliability. Axles well either go serious Dana or go Rover HD or go Rover std and portals but as with Owl try trialing.................................Sorts the men out from the boys and the boys with bling and lotsa gear and not alot else do give up pretty quick. Its quite scary that I've not competed seriously for a long time and I may have a week if I pull my finger out to drive my lil 80 wreck before the nats.
 
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