As regards clearance and articulation I got to work today and there was three p38's and a Disco 2 waiting for me so I got my tape measure on them and they have less clearance than my chassis so perhaps worried over nothing. I can get a bit anal at times and have to stop myself or nowt gets done:rolleyes:

Simon.
 
I have competed in RTV's for years have only ever done a few CCV's and not really enjoyed it driving somone elses motor or my 90 tank. I have fond memories as a kid of the then Modified motors in the AWDC. A red pipe and panel ones still in my mind and have always wanted to have a go myself.

Need to keep the Youngun's into it Clubs have taken serious hiots in membership and many are struggling Good way for the youngun's to learn how to drive. I was taught in Wales as a kid on old disused coal roads in a 109.


We have just put mounts on to fit a disco axle but thinking the castor angle and the diff height is going to cause issues. Also found out its got a nasty SD1 starter motor which will need changing before the solonoid gets wiped out by the propshaft. Agrrh!
 
owl said:
As regards clearance and articulation I got to work today and there was three p38's and a Disco 2 waiting for me so I got my tape measure on them and they have less clearance than my chassis so perhaps worried over nothing. I can get a bit anal at times and have to stop myself or nowt gets done:rolleyes:

Simon.
Click to expand...


It looks great. I'm sure it'll be up there in the rankingd for sure
 
Well I have now done the axle spring mountings and finished the top hat mountings that fit on the axles and in the chassis spring mountings, I have made them so that I can put shims and spacers under them to set the ride height and corner weights.

I thing I will fit the seats next and do some drawings for the cage. Things are going a bit slow at the moment with other things that need doing plus some kind old dear wrote my transit van off so I have to find a replacement.

P1154755.jpg


P1154764.jpg


P1154766.jpg


P1154767.jpg
 
Well I'm still not getting much done but have managed to get the seats mounted and the drawings done for the cage. I'm still undecided whether to make my own tube bender or not, I think I will pop over to Tornado next week and see what they can do for me.

Here are a few pic's of the seat fitting.

P2054775.jpg


P2054781.jpg


P2054772.jpg
 
Well I got the hoops bent up by Dave at Tornado motor sport and have started on the roll cage. I will hang fire on the section forward of the bulkhead until I have the mechanicals in place but it will have some diagonals to the front cross member which will incorporate the shock mountings.

rollcage1.jpg


rollcage2.jpg


rollcage3.jpg
.
 
Hi guy's I am off work this week so should be getting some done on the motor.
I have had a few hours on it today and am working on the engine mountings, before anybody mentions it the front engine mounting tube is on a slight slant because the factory engine mounting bracket is on a slant, I was going to put mountings on the sides of the block but there isn't any bolt holes so had to stick with the front factory job. The engine is solidly mounted and there will be a mid plate underneath that bolts to the bell housing.
I have a gear linkage coming from a chap that is breaking his MGF, I purchased it month's ago and I think he removes one bolt per week, I would of liked to fit it this week but there is plenty of other stuff to do.

owl5.jpg


owl1.jpg
 
Yesterday I made the gearbox mounting I just have two more too fabricate under the block but need to fit the gear cables first as they run under the block also. Things are getting tight now, if you look at the pic, around the mounting I have just made I have to fit the gear lever, hand brake and the exhaust headers of which the primaries need to be 30" long so end just behind the gearbox cross member so need to get 6 1.5" pipes through and still need to be able to get the box out without too much work.

Today I decided to have a rest from steel fab work so started on one of the moulds for the front body work, I want it to look like a very early 80 with spotlights behind the grill, though I will have to give me workshop a good clean out before getting to involved with body work.
Also while I think about it if any of you guys see any wire mesh similar to the series grills let me know because I can't find any and am thinking about buying several series grills to make a 80" grill.

P3144939.jpg
 
I have to get some more materials so not been doing a lot, The steel stock places don't open at weekends and I can't get in the week.
I need some steel tube for the door bars and finishing of the front and rear shock mountings plus some square box for the rear body frame though I am toying with the idea of not bothering with the frame and just making a composite job we will see.

I did manage to get a brake balance bar so have knocked up a pedal. I started with a MG ZT pedal and first job was to reshape it then alter the pedal ratio from 4:1 to 6:1 because I am dropping the servo as I think with throttle bodies I might not have enough vacuum. I had to widen the pedal at the top to get the tube in the right place and finally I lengthened it and put on an adjustable foot pad.

The bodywork will look like a very early 80 with spot lights behind the grill and I started on a pattern for the mould which you can see in the last pic.

I'm having a day off tomorrow and going to the L&C Easter comp at Stainby.

pedal.jpg


P4085083.jpg


P4085085.jpg
 
Well I had a day off today and went to Lancs and Cheshire Easter do at Stainby to look at the comp and it pi55ed down most of the day and apparently most of the night comp as well, was well cold and windy too. It made the course very boggy but fun all the same.

warren.jpg


stainby1.jpg


warren2.jpg


P4095278.jpg
 
Good pics!!

Proper comp safari!!! rough terrain as it should be none of this rally stage courses!!!

Keep it coming!
 
Ninja I just noticed that you like staffie owning snap.
These are ours. Alport Staffordshire Bull Terriers

Tag
 
Well I have been doing my pedal box which needs to be quite precise as when the brakes are full on the rods working the pistons need to be concentric with the bores of the master cylinders so the isn't any side loadings on the pistons also the cylinders need to be square to the cross tube in the pedal and finally the rods need to run parallel to each other and at an angle of 90 deg's to the pedal pivots, so I have taken my time and checked everything several times.

The cylinder bores are 5/8th for the front brakes and 3/4 for rears, I worked this out with half math and half guess work so I hope they are something like but if the worst happens I should only have to buy 1 cylinder.

As you can see there is also a bracket for the lower steering column mounting. Looking at it I think making the inner wing and panelling the bulkhead will be fun so many things to work around. LOL I just remembered the last one I built was smacked into a tree first event Hmmmm.

pedalbox1.jpg


pedalbox2.jpg
 
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