The gen 3 RF filter from Land Rover is ridiculously expensive, especially since they clearly know it was a problem when it was still in production. @martyuk has designed and built an inline filter to stop interference going through and sells them from his online shop. @brianp38dse has a £5 fix using a second fob to cut the power to the RF unit.

If you press lock on the fob twice it goes into superlock. If anything goes wrong at this stage you're looking at cutting your way into the car and causing damage. Some people cut the superlock wire in the lock actuator to stop this ever happening. I just never double-lock.

Brake sounds odd. The ABS pump will probably run dor amybe 30 seconds on startup. The pedal shouldn't bump though. That sounds like the ABS kicking in? Any light on the dash or a click from the binnacle indicating the ABS is active? The brake modulator has pistons inside. I guess it is possible one of those is sticking and as the system pressurises it moves giving the thump? Or maybe a sticky slider pin on the caliper? A full brake bleed might help - certainly the cheapest option.

+1 on the superlock function. Just don't use it can cause loads of problems as quite a few on here will testify to

Did a quick check of status of systems in unit yesterday.
Everything else is operational - fans, radio, CD, lights / signals/sun sensor, windows / sun roof, wipers, AES indicator lights etc. So Batt, Batt distribution and most earths are good.
Seems I lost the left channel (drivers side speaker) but likley happened earlier just didnt notice and will have to track wiring or out station. But entirely secondary. Probably just track down another outstation etc. And switch out for all the time it takes to access and trace. I had the radio reworked and added an external source plug four years by an x pat in texaracana US. Apparently his brother in England also does the same thing on the side for the radios & CD players also. But at least a relative cheap fix $350 US including border taxes and shipping.to deep south states.
Of course I cant find it in the shop manual now but there was an additional single page / couple paragraphs about the solenoid operation on the auto gear shift and why they freeze / what makes them work.
Tried to take it out of park again ( which was frozen since Saturday ) and yesterday afternoon it was now operational.- key pos II /
So there is some life there or it corrected its self.
Stepping back for three lines, Key fob / super lock - so fob lock was sort of twitchy / hesitant / delayed for the week prior and super lock had progressively failed.
Three days later the ignition failed to point where I am now. Now is that a predecessor indication of what followed - just thinking out loud.
When I did the batt disconnect / key pos II reconnect. The orange check engine light disappeared but super lock was restored - yes indications are to avoid using superlock going forward. Have to check "path" of superlock operation.
I'll do the other rudimentary checks - but it seems I have to find some access to the Sync and OBD reader.- and the lack of sync is seemingly root problem or I am not going to isolate / identify issue clearly until I get my hands on those.
And will see about the RF filter to avoid an issue going forward. Again bizzare little issues - almost as bad as i hear about the new Cadillac's.
Thx - Cheers.

Grrrr, the ABS thought on pedal - that could be it but as a normal function - just odd now because engine not starting. And it operates electrically not directly off engine like brake fluid pump.
An early issue or concern ( when i first got unit) but later found out it is a normal function. Was for the ABS (three lights in row - others not coming to me) but they all stay on for a few seconds after the vehicle is started and running a few feet. Then they all turn off.
But in the week prior - it seemed they were hanging on just a little longer - or I'm just pulling at threads / seeing ghosts.
@martyuk - online store?
Still trying to get a handle on the site functionality.
Cheers,

Here is the cheap extra fob to help stop the battery going flat
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rf-reciever-work-round.258096/

Grrrr, got to love world wide web and using some Sherlock process - found the p38 web shop / @martyuk / who is also on this - K now just have to get a handle on the site.
And I see some useful things in this process - I guess availability / people being around is the barrier now.
Cheers,

Brian - thx - I'm going to be disappointed if I'm learning more about this than the local "shop"
Yes, ran across vaguely on a search.
Also, just emailing Marty (p38webshop) between other things - maybe his buddy Nick(?) is monitoring.
Cheers,

Grrrr, found "martys" martin cox p38webshop / online store - read through / signed up / emailed - but very shortly after received auto response that he is closing the shop as he is working out of country.- for time being.
So next - beginning to feel jinxed - forging ahead.- must be my welsh heritage determination or isolation of Fakenham
Cant even reach out to other friends in England - to old or preoccupied with other stuff.
Will take a look at fob.
As ever Thx - Cheers

frozen north said:

Grrrr, found "martys" martin cox p38webshop / online store - read through / signed up / emailed - but very shortly after received auto response that he is closing the shop as he is working out of country.- for time being.
So next - beginning to feel jinxed - forging ahead.- must be my welsh heritage determination or isolation of Fakenham
Cant even reach out to other friends in England - to old or preoccupied with other stuff.
Will take a look at fob.
As ever Thx - Cheers

Click to expand...

Marty went to NZ at the start of the pandemic chasing work. I guess he's still not back.

Brake might be normal. I bled mine last night and realised if I turned ignition on with foot on the pedal then I do hear a click and feel a thump. Mind you, I had a bleed nipple open at the time.

Your outstation is more likely corroded connector behind the A pillar kick panel than a failed outstation. The OBD sonetimes get corroded as well, especially if the windscreen trim or pollen filters are leaking a bit.

What size battery are you running? We all tend to use an MF-31 1000CCA

frozen north said:

Grrrr, found "martys" martin cox p38webshop / online store - read through / signed up / emailed - but very shortly after received auto response that he is closing the shop as he is working out of country.- for time being.
So next - beginning to feel jinxed - forging ahead.- must be my welsh heritage determination or isolation of Fakenham
Cant even reach out to other friends in England - to old or preoccupied with other stuff.
Will take a look at fob.
As ever Thx - Cheers

Click to expand...

If you decide on the second fob option go for a "jog" switch so you can't leave it switched on.Welcome by the way.

Gents, went to the coast - Vancouver for the weekend for B day. Nice change - but stayed outside of downtown in the burbs at GF's daughter request - yah not again. And weather in western CA has just been off for this time of year- not as warm and a little rainy - so good for garden but thats about it. If AB and oil is blamed for global warming I would like to share in the result. But I'm the welsh / English descendent that likes the temps @ 25C+

Roller - yes, M31 1000 am - works well but suffers the slow drain (as covered in other discussions) so not a good thing for a vehicle that is not driven continually. Maybe if I get the sync issues / and current major issue now. I can get that corrected.

Tomcat - thankyou - once I get the girl working properly again. I will check out the ways to avoid it ( sync issue) happening again. The slow battery drain thing has been an issue for a long time - just never thought of where to look until now. I just know not to open up to many cans of warms at once with vehicles like this.

Grrrr - will check that out - corrosion is always a thought / consideration. But generally the old girl has 0 rust on her. I was surprised to find the one tailgate harness. had rusted and released at the body mount end. But took off the mount bolts and absolutely nothing else.
But home - so have to get back to hunting up a sync mate and a correct OBD reader..
Cheers,

One of the problems with the P38 is water leaks to the interior which van land on electrical connections and destroy them over time so no corrosion on the body doesn't mean no corrosion inside. Always worth checking the electrical connectors behind the side panels in the footwells. Probably not related to your starting problem though. This Spring has indeed been pretty miserable in the Vancouver area. Looking forward to some steady sunshine.

Gord, Chilliwack - yah I was at GF's daughters in Tsawwassen (sp) - GF still there baby sitting a dog - dont ask - sunny there today but not real warm 14C. Next wknd is May long so whats going on with this.
Even ice coming off the lake in the interior was stunted like 2 wks.
But, yes am aware - when I have had panels off for other things I inspected around. Yes, as the vehicle was down I was going to poke at a few other things.
But - you know global - it is raining in deadmonton - then some hail - then some rain. And have no space to roll the rover into cover. So will wait until I have to suffer less.
Do you ever see any decent shape 90 - 110"s around you. Have someone with a number of choices but Texarcana US. Friends in England either see perfect or trash. I may have to bite the bullet and buy a UK one or send to Australia.
Or track down something UN but thats a whole different series of hoops. But both of those need container cargo to operate properly..And container rates are all over.
Cheers, .

Just got back on the 17th from 2 weeks work at Suncor Base Plant north of Ft. McMurray. Weather there was better than in the Lower Mainland, only 1 day of rain and not too cold.
There are usually Defenders for sale on Vancouver Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace. Prices usually start around $40k and I have seen $110k. Don't know the condition of these but the ones in my club, RoverLanders of BC, are all in pretty good shape. I am not really a fan of Defenders. The only thing I envy is the diesel engine which has much better gas mileage than my V8. On the other hand I am done with manual transmissions. The automatic is so much easier to drive everywhere, including offroad. A manual might last longer than an automatic but an automatic will last longer than a clutch. People do like the absence of electronics on most of the Defenders and this can be an issue with the P38 but for the most part I think the P38 drive train is pretty solid and dependable. Once you get the EAS working reliably you are good to go.

Gord, - camp rotation or a project? there's a funny - busy Van market at this time - half of BC was working in AB in previous years.( Couldnt find any help for projects at my lake / ranch in BC interior because they were all in AB). Now Van busy and they are hesitant of AB during our down turn because all they suppose to see is AB plates going home when it turns back - as raise in interest rates are starting to cause.
I spent 9 yrs as sen development & construction manager ICI for a BC developer.in AB - one of the typical names.
But, sorry probably didnt pick the correct year type early 60"s - 70's four door - types I saw all over Australia / England / Europe. My dads BF had one when I was rather young.
At $40 -110 condition - restored or modified or like the US mod version - but some of those are just bizarre up to $250? But I'll take a look for curiosity.
Actually mine came from MCL Van early "97 - it was a gift from the Van developer. He bought him self a second new one and a lambo and had no room left in west van for the other two older.
Van pays trades and senior construction mangmt less in Van than they do in AB. But the Van condo's remain the $ level they are. The contradictions of lower mainland.
My AES is working perfectly as was everything else up until recently - (well it is time to replace rear bags but) if I knew the slow draw on battery was a sign before this might have been avoided.
Mine is appraised / Haggerty insured - alleged top 10% in CA. Appr couldnt barely find any comparisons for values. Appraiser said the only defect was it was on the original 110K Gems engine?.
Trany auto / off road / sport works just fine. No burn in fluids.
I was wondering about something I could putter with "lightly" restore - not really a couch and beer type and only play golf on holiday.
Once / if it warms up also have to put my RT bike back together. See, next perc of BC - wet and minus 9 is about as bad as it gets - so can always work on something..And there is only so much space in a heated two car garage.
Probably post covid is just making the chase for warm out doors even more pressing.
Cheers,

Sunny here today for a nice change. The last 10 years of my career were spent working for an OH&S consulting firm. I retired in 2014 but still work occasional jobs through the year as they are always short of staff. For Suncor we mainly do shutdown support in the Spring and fall. Sometimes help with special projects. Need extra money to keep Rovers running

Its 8C partly cloudy here - got a photo from lake - waters open but partly overcast and 9C GF says Tsawwassen / Delta sunny 14C - everywhere 6 - 8 below norms.
The safety is a change up / adventure & and some extra pocket money. For all the hype always short on safety it seems. Have one buddy who does the same for a "consult" co and is always bouncing around. But i think it is wearing on him though the $ are good.
Took a look at some current Rover listings - so some where in recent history a pile of rovers have appeared. Defenders of all sorts and some major mod's holy shad - lowest 23K (missing roof)- 150K right up to "97. Well I guess I missed an opp 6 yrs ago - had a pile of choices @ 5 - 12K but only so much time and space. But other times prudence works, was about to buy a UK supercar (4yrs ago) but didnt like how economy was going so stood down. Proved right but for me the insurance was only $3200 yr.
But sunday here is supposed to be 19 so will jump on rover. Got to see if I can borrow the sync & obd from someone I indirectly know..If not i will see about pulling panels - looking for the brown pvc int knee panel - existing has a good crack from previous peoples knees.
Have a great weekend.