Don`t be too fussy about what year/colour/trim it is .. just make sure you get a long test drive ... cold start/hot start town & m-way. Just be SURE it`s a good `un.
 
Definately go for the 2000 MY especially if has had few owners and the last one kept it for a long time. Be prepared to sort out the bits that will need doing on a 10 year old car and unless you are very unlucky it will give you years of good service. I would still say go for a diesel as they are economical and more reliable.
 
Yi, the later ones will give you 4 wheel traction control too which is definitely worth having if you plan to off road - simulates locking diffs and actually works very well.

Guy
 
If you own a P38 your going to be up set if some one says they are sh*t even when you know in your hart its true.
As for a P38 being better in the snow than a classic that's just a stupid inaccurate generalisation.

kooky_guy Re: Advise needed on buying a P38 range rover
The P38 is seriously underrated in this country - perhaps it is a status thing - they were seriously expensive when new. Perhaps now that they're becoming cheap, more people will use them off road and discover just how good they are. The Americans have been seriously off roading them for years and love them.

The l322 is even more capable off road but how many of those ever venture off the tarmac? I'm sure they'll also get used properly eventually.

As for reliability - you just need to keep on top of the maintenance. Sure, they're not brilliant but most breakdowns could be avoided by preventative maintenance - I know all of mine bar one (failure or a new part) could have been.

:eek::eek:Well well how childish and immature can you get !!!!!!!!!:D
:D:DKooky_guy, liked the earlier post of ''Utter Bollocks'' and agree totally with the above.
I personally own and drive both a Classic and a P38 and can say they both perform very well in both departments, in 1994 Land Rover Owner did a test where they put a 4.6 HSE up against a 3.9 Vogue, on the road the 4.6 was out in front in both handling, smoothness of gear change,speed and acceleration. On the rough stuff there was little if nothing at all different between the two, if anything the P38 was slightly better because of its gearbox.:cool::cool:
:doh::doh:If you have good tyres then either vehicle should perform well, if you have crap tyres they will perform crap!!!:D

:eek::eek:Why is it that some people come on here and slag other people and there vehicle's off and mean it. We don't mind a **** take and friendly banter but some go to far and when they loose they revert to F*%K OFF well we cant all be perfect as they crucified the last one:eek::eek:

:D:D:DOh and finally hope you find a good one enery8:blabla::blabla:
 
My advice would be to buy one from someone in the "know", eg a land rover enthusied or mechanic, then usually most of the common faults would have been ironed out... some of the worst horror stories I know, are when then are purchased off second car dealers... not through the fault of the dealer... they have either been taken in part-ex or they have stood around on the forecourt for ages... my p38 (and the one previous) is serviced / maintained by mechanics who if you cut them in half would have Land Rover written through them like a stick of rock.... o.k. they ain't cheap, but reliabilty has never been an issue to me in 6 years of owning P38's
 
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Thanks again for all the advise, still want a P38 but now I have seen advertised an 1998 'R' with service history, 130k, 3 owners 12 months MOT and 3 months warrentee - £3295. I have also seen a 2001 'Y', service history, 190k, one owner, 'long MOT' £3000. in addition to the 2000 MY 97k f/s/h full MOT and warrentee £5995. So even more confused than when I started!!
Suggestions Please
 
Just buy one for the love of god...it will break down so you might as well get started now whilst the weathers good...
 
Thanks again for all the advise, still want a P38 but now I have seen advertised an 1998 'R' with service history, 130k, 3 owners 12 months MOT and 3 months warrentee - £3295. I have also seen a 2001 'Y', service history, 190k, one owner, 'long MOT' £3000. in addition to the 2000 MY 97k f/s/h full MOT and warrentee £5995. So even more confused than when I started!!
Suggestions Please

Offer the guy £5K for the 2000 one:D
 
Yep agree make the guy a real cheeky offer for the 2000my... you may be pleasantly suprised!!!!!

Yi, he can only say no. I'd offer less and work up to a 'final' offer, but you should check it's any good first!

Is it petrol or diesel?

Guy
 
The 2000 MY 'W' reg Trader asking £5999 and its diesel. Full Service History, 12 months MOT.
 
Price up all the parts and repairs and take at least that off. That what I did when I saw mine and in the end when I showed the trader the evidence he was falling over himself to sell it. So I got a nice condition vehicle with new tyres, airbags, track rods etc. It depends if the overall car is in nice condition if it is worth doing this or do you have another vehicle in mind?
 
if you are mechanically minded i would be buying a cheaper one that needs work done to it.£5000 for 2000 model sounds a lot,you can probably buy one for half that with a few minor faults.most things that fail dont cost that much to repair if you look around for the parts.even if you have to buy new, at least you know whats been done to it .not just botched up to sell on.but thats just my opinion
 
I run a P38 4.6 Hse. It's an able performer and never fails to please me.
Keep them properly maintained and they will last a life time.

Reliability issues are always from poor maintenance.
 
I run a P38 4.6 Hse. It's an able performer and never fails to please me.
Keep them properly maintained and they will last a life time.

Reliability issues are always from poor maintenance.

Bollocks
 

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