PetrVIVIVI · Aug 23, 2018

Freelander TD4 2004 automatic trans. 184000km.

I want to drive 1300km (2600km) long trip and just need to know (to calm my wife) if any of attached numbres are off charts.

Thank you all

Nodge68 · Aug 23, 2018

The live data is what I'd expect to see for a warm engine at idle, although I suspect the air filter isn't clean as the MAP is showing under 100.

There are some anomalies on the readings though. There are voltages for O2 sensors coming up on the live data, which obviously aren't correct on a FL1 TD4. I suspect this is the reader giving random data that it can't interpret.

I'd change all fluids and make sure all tyres are identical with least worn on the rear and at the correct pressure.
Then just enjoy the journey.

PetrVIVIVI · Aug 23, 2018

Nodge68 said:
The live data is what I'd expect to see for a warm engine at idle, although I suspect the air filter isn't clean as the MAP is showing under 100.

There are some anomalies on the readings though. There are voltages for O2 sensors coming up on the live data, which obviously aren't correct on a FL1 TD4. I suspect this is the reader giving random data that it can't interpret.

I'd change all fluids and make sure all tyres are identical with least worn on the rear and at the correct pressure.
Then just enjoy the journey.

Thank you very much. All tires are new as well as all fluids and I replaced air filter just 500 km before I made those readings. I bought K&N air filter so hope that it is not clogged somewere or can this kind of airfilter give different readings?

PetrVIVIVI · Aug 23, 2018

Ok now I discovered some more advanced feature in my obd reader. Pictures attached.

1st picture: There is probably the reason why my front left wheel is always much hotter then right one. Hope I can find how to fix it in haynes.
2nd picture: Really do not know how to fix this one or what does it mean.
3rd picture: Does anybody know what warning lights? It was under SRS menu. (can this be fuel light because I was not able to light my up and today fill in 58litres of diesel in it - I assume my free has 59liters fuel size right?)
4th picture: strange. I have new varta battery.

Nodge68 · Aug 23, 2018

PetrVIVIVI said:
I bought K&N air filter so hope that it is not clogged somewere or can this kind of airfilter give different readings?

Yes. Paper is better when new and won't damage the MAF.

digby · Aug 24, 2018

Read somewhere that "K&N" type filters just aren't worth it - they have bigger holes thereby allowing bigger particles through and the oil can foul your MAF
I dont think a missing speed sensor would give you a hot wheel - unless you spend all your life braking hard - more likely to be a slight binding of the caliper

PetrVIVIVI · Aug 24, 2018

Thanks digby for your answer. I tried to remove K&N filter and run diagnostic without it as well with paper one and MAF give me same readings every time. All readings slightly under 100. I had K&N on my old mini and was very happy with it so I assume it will do me a good job on my free as well.

Also I am wery confused with my latest fueling. No low fuel lights on and I was able to fill in 58 litres of diesel. And it looks like there was a few mm before last mark.

rob_bell · Aug 24, 2018

I agree with Nodge - the figures you're getting from the live data look the same as I get on my MG ZTT with the same engine.

The advanced features show a failed wheel speed sensor and a warning light that has been disconnected. I guess this is historical, or are the three amigos been deactivated?

In respect to a K&N fan who poisoned the MAF on my M47R engine thanks to the oil in the filter, I'd keep with paper in future... You learn from your mistakes. Never had a problem with them on my petrol engines...

PetrVIVIVI · Aug 24, 2018

Is there a way to find out that three amigos has been deactivated? I have the car only 6 months.

I can also delete this readings and I will probalby see if it is actual or not in time right?

Can the MAF sensor be cleaned somehow or I need to replace it.

rob_bell · Aug 24, 2018

Usually, when a tool connects to the ABS/TC ECU, the three amigos come on - that’d the first clue.

The other thing that some tools can do is to activate the warning lights as a test.

The other thing you can do is to clear all the error codes and see whether they recur.

Hopefully all the errors are historical rather than current

PetrVIVIVI · Aug 24, 2018

When I connect it to car nothing lights up but when I run automatic test it lights up all controls and there is word ,,diag” on computer and after test it will all disapear. So I assume it is correct behavior. Anyway I delete all errors and we will see what comes back.

rob_bell · Aug 24, 2018

Good plan

PetrVIVIVI · Aug 25, 2018

After 200km new code pop out. Can you guys advice what could it be? I have also poor performance uphill.

rob_bell · Aug 29, 2018

Tricky to read that and I'm not really sure what it means other than an apparent short circuit in the boost controller?

PetrVIVIVI · Sep 3, 2018

I delete those as well But after 100km error is back but I am not sure if there were any time when hippo loses his power except driving uphill. Also I inspect motor department and found only one turbo solenoid. The one under blanked EGR. I thought there should be 2 of them. The one with extra hose is missing. Is that normal?

PetrVIVIVI · Sep 14, 2018

Today after another erase of error code engine light lights on and stays there until I delete the code again. It lights on right after I put gas pedal to the floor when I try to speed up uphil. No turbo effect happened and engine just went to crazy high rev. What shoul I check or replace.Code p1e30

Nodge68 · Sep 15, 2018

PetrVIVIVI said:
What shoul I check or replace.Code p1e30

Check the wiring to the boost control solenoid.

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