Datatek
Well-Known Member
I used a 3/4" drive socket and 4 feet of scaffold pole, the hub nuts undid no problem
Yes. I don't recall an issue with the rears so guessing they're lower torque.
front and rears both 192 ft/lb according to t'interweb
That's my plan - assuming the 3/4" drive 40" long breaker bar and the 32mm impact socket arrive before the weekend. CV joint kit arrived today - 36mm nut Grrrr - shame I've already changed the gaiters and the circlips both sides when I did the balljointsI used a 3/4" drive socket and 4 feet of scaffold pole, the hub nuts undid no problem
32mm 3/4" drive socket never arrived so tried it with my 3/4" breaker with a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter. Sheared the adapter clean in two. Took it my local tyre fitter and he did the same with his snap on adapter and also broke the head off on his 1/2" breaker using a 3' length of scaffold tube. He ended up heating it up with a blowtorch and he then got it undone with his battery operated impact driver. I then swapped the cv joint over this afternoon. Broken reluctor ring fell off when I pulled the hub. Tightened the new 36mm nut up with 3/4" breaker and 3/4" 36mm socket with 3' of trolley jack handle and then staked the nut. None of the hub nuts were staked at the factory when my P38 was built. Woohoo no abs lights.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Nice one
I replaced the CV joints on mine as they were so cheap it seemed like a good idea and the reluctor rings were rusted to feck.
Not staked but normally there's a dent where they bang it into an indentation.
I'm assuming staked refers to the thin circular walled part of the nut being punched into the slot
as opposed to castellated/castle nut or castellated washer and cotter pin. None of mine had been locked that way and they looked like they've never been undone since the car was built in 2000. I'd still like to know why the rears undid easily but the fronts were stuck fast ?.
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I'm assuming staked refers to the thin circular walled part of the nut being punched into the slot
Yes on the first part and mine was the same on the second part so I assume rears are leas torque but I would have to xheck RAVE. I would imagine there's a lot less strain on the rears are all the braking and heavy turning forces are on the front.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Three out of four undid easily on mine the fourth require the purchase of a 3/4" drive socket and bar plus 4 feet of scaffold poleI'm assuming staked refers to the thin circular walled part of the nut being punched into the slot
The nuts on the MY 2000 were staked but it was hard to see as the indentation was hard to see it was so small. On the MY1999 they were staked to the point that it was very difficult to knock back the indentation.
Here we go again - abs and traction lights back on - was ok on local journeys not going over 30mph. When I took it up to 60-70 mph, the lights came back on. Either driveshaft or wheel bearing oscillation at high speed or air pressure/reluctor ring pushed the sensor back too far ? Ideas on a postcard please folks - P.S. Took the wheels off at lunchtime today and set the sensor air gap at 0.5mm and also checked the o/s driveshaft was central in the axle tube by checking that the gaps above and below the oil seal protector flange were identical (in case the driveshaft was out of true and causing vibration. Test drove it - no difference - might try closing the air gap up to 0.04mm instead of 0.5mm.
Hi, I used a feeler gauge slipped between the sensor tip and the reluctor ring, then pressed the sensor down until it touched the feeler gauge. I'm going to adjust it down to a smaller gap tomorrow lunchtime and see if that does the trick - if not i'll see you Friday lunchtime
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
I wonder why the specification calls for no gapHi, I used a feeler gauge slipped under the cv joint dust shield and over the reluctor ring, then pressed the sensor down until it touched the feeler gauge. I'm going to adjust it down to a smaller gap tomorrow lunchtime and see if that does the trick - if not i'll see you Friday lunchtime
I completely agree, when I did the cv joint, I fitted it with back with no gap and the abs & traction control lights stayed out until I ventured above 30mph and then both came back on. Today I reduced the gap to 0.04mm, took it for a test drive and both lights stayed on. 4/100 of a millimetre (1.57 thou) isn't much of a gap. Obviously I don't know what the self setting distance is - it was an optimistic attempt to try and mimic the self setting gap in the event that the sensors were not being self set. Maybe now it has a new reluctor on one wheel and the original one on the other, the new & old reluctors are generating different strength signals ? I did check the nearside reluctor just to check that that one hadn't cracked as well. Can only be one of three things left :- faulty sensor/abs ecu/ wheel bearing. Trial and error without proper diagnostics. Maybe the Britpart CV joint hasn't got 60 teeth.I wonder why the specification calls for no gap
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Too few teeth on the reluctor ring might cause the ABS to fire due to differing wheel speeds, but I doubt it would flag a fault. As long as the signal is within spec, small differences side to side should make no difference.
I still think from the symptoms it's a wheel bearing.
Kermit_rr kindly connected it up to his nanocom at lunchtime today and it came back with front o/s sensor short to another sensor. This is after 2 sets of sensors and a reluctor ring. Where do I go from here ? Is it the sensor or is it the abs ecu ? Bamboozled.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That fault is a common indication of an ECU fault. Worth checking that the connector to the ABS ECU is not wet or corroded.
That's my plan - assuming the 3/4" drive 40" long breaker bar and the 32mm impact socket arrive before the weekend. CV joint kit arrived today - 36mm nut Grrrr - shame I've already changed the gaiters and the circlips both sides when I did the balljoints
36mm is Britpart. 32mm can still be got and means you don't need a thin walled impact socket to do it.
