Yep it sees a bigger gap and think the wheel has slowed more than the othersSo with a cracked it messes about randomly, well at least hopefully it will be fixed
Yep it sees a bigger gap and think the wheel has slowed more than the othersSo with a cracked it messes about randomly, well at least hopefully it will be fixed
Yep it sees a bigger gap and think the wheel has slowed more than the others
The rings tend to rust underneath so that the ring become oval and contact the sensor before they crack. Happened on the X type and looks like it's doing the same on the BMW, the new ring has gone missing in the post and the drive shaft nut is rusted to hell so could be a pig of a job.It makes sense, i bet it cracks due to a bit of rust under the ring.
i have not had to touch mine yet but that day will come as i have some new ball joints awaiting fitting when required.
The rings tend to rust underneath so that the ring become oval and contact the sensor before they crack. Happened on the X type and looks like it's doing the same on the BMW, the new ring has gone missing in the post and the drive shaft nut is rusted to hell so could be a pig of a job.
It's a 10 plate mate and the drive shaft nut is in a recessed hub so access is limited . I've got a new nut so I'll have to heat the old one and possibly drill it to snap it.How old is the bemmer as we have one and i dont want more work
It's a 10 plate mate and the drive shaft nut is in a recessed hub so access is limited . I've got a new nut so I'll have to heat the old one and possibly drill it to snap it.
I think this car has lived by the sea the rim part of the locking nut fell off when I levered it out of the locking cutout.the shoulders for the bihex socket are also very rusty so I can't get a socket to grip it. When you do your top arms mark the shock absorbers with the position the top shield sits in relation to the bottom part under load ,I stuck a piece of masking tape on it then marked it with a pen. When you replace the top arms you can then jack the hub till the mark lines up and tighten the arm bolts (18mm) they must be tightened with the car under load which is near impossible with the wheel on. I'll take some photos when I do mine if you want to make it clearer.Mines a 08 so even older, hopefully i will not need to go there, mind i do need to replace a couple of top rear arms, i was looking at doing all the rear arms and all the front as you have to get it tracked might as well do it once and be done with it as if two are gone others will follow.
good luck with the rusty nuts
Don't know how @brianp38dse but I've managed to upload the photo I took a week or so ago.I think this car has lived by the sea the rim part of the locking nut fell off when I levered it out of the locking cutout.the shoulders for the bihex socket are also very rusty so I can't get a socket to grip it. When you do your top arms mark the shock absorbers with the position the top shield sits in relation to the bottom part under load ,I stuck a piece of masking tape on it then marked it with a pen. When you replace the top arms you can then jack the hub till the mark lines up and tighten the arm bolts (18mm) they must be tightened with the car under load which is near impossible with the wheel on. I'll take some photos when I do mine if you want to make it clearer.
Don't know how @brianp38dse but I've managed to upload the photo I took a week or so ago.
that nut is rusted to buggery - i've got a 1997 E39 528se auto myself as well as the mk3 granada and a saab 9-3 1.9tid vector sport and a 1996 mgf 1.8vvc - keeps me busy maintaining themI think this car has lived by the sea the rim part of the locking nut fell off when I levered it out of the locking cutout.the shoulders for the bihex socket are also very rusty so I can't get a socket to grip it. When you do your top arms mark the shock absorbers with the position the top shield sits in relation to the bottom part under load ,I stuck a piece of masking tape on it then marked it with a pen. When you replace the top arms you can then jack the hub till the mark lines up and tighten the arm bolts (18mm) they must be tightened with the car under load which is near impossible with the wheel on. I'll take some photos when I do mine if you want to make it clearer.
I was going to order just the reluctor ring but changed my mind and ordered a cv joint - just waiting for a 3/4" drive 32mm impact socket and a 3/4" breaker bar as I couldn't undo the hub nuts last time with a 1/2" breaker when I did the balljoints - I had to take the hubs and halfshafts out in one piece.It makes sense, i bet it cracks due to a bit of rust under the ring.
i have not had to touch mine yet but that day will come as i have some new ball joints awaiting fitting when required.
When you get the hubs off you can elongate the abs sensor hole in the c/v dust covers so the sensor can stay in the hub if you ever need to take it apart in the future.I was going to order just the reluctor ring but changed my mind and ordered a cv joint - just waiting for a 3/4" drive 32mm impact socket and a 3/4" breaker bar as I couldn't undo the hub nuts last time with a 1/2" breaker when I did the balljoints - I had to take the hubs and halfshafts out in one piece.
Yes I've read about that modification to the dust covers. On mine the covers are rusted to hell as well but although they are listed as a separate part, no-one stocks them anymore.When you get the hubs off you can elongate the abs sensor hole in the c/v dust covers so the sensor can stay in the hub if you ever need to take it apart in the future.
I was going to order just the reluctor ring but changed my mind and ordered a cv joint - just waiting for a 3/4" drive 32mm impact socket and a 3/4" breaker bar as I couldn't undo the hub nuts last time with a 1/2" breaker when I did the balljoints - I had to take the hubs and halfshafts out in one piece.
You need more Wheatabix mate.I took mine to a friendly Indy and he used his windy-gun to undo the hub nut and then I nipped it up to get home and then undid it. When I put it back I did it up as far as I could and took it back and he hammered it up again. Gave him some beer money.
You need more Wheatabix mate.
I'm good at doing that!! I'm getting better thoughNo way. If you knew how many bolts I'd sheared off!
I'm good at doing that!! I'm getting better though
I've asked my local MOT garage to loosen the hub nut - he said he couldn't do it.I took mine to a friendly Indy and he used his windy-gun to undo the hub nut and then I nipped it up to get home and then undid it. When I put it back I did it up as far as I could and took it back and he hammered it up again. Gave him some beer money.