A good battery is a must, but I would look at the voltage on the connector the ABS sensor plugs into.
>5v is good (mine is 5.3v on both front sensor plugs). So the abs ecu was outputting the required volts.
From memorThe sensors should present c.12kOhms resistance if they are good.
Nanocom sensor values (on a stationary vehicle) showed 2.3v on the good sensors and 0v on the one that was duff.
Do you have a Nanocom to hand?
 
A good battery is a must, but I would look at the voltage on the connector the ABS sensor plugs into.
>5v is good (mine is 5.3v on both front sensor plugs). So the abs ecu was outputting the required volts.
From memorThe sensors should present c.12kOhms resistance if they are good.
Nanocom sensor values (on a stationary vehicle) showed 2.3v on the good sensors and 0v on the one that was duff.
Do you have a Nanocom to hand?
Unfortunately not - Kermit kindly used his one on my P38 last time. But i think i may as well charge the battery up and check the voltage across the battery with engine running.
 
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12.3 isn't good, can you measure the cranking voltage? Much less than 11 and the battery is toast.
It might start, but ECUs will be getting low voltage while cranking which can give odd/random faults
You also want to measure what voltage you're getting with the engine running.. 13.8 and your battery won't last add long as it should, 14.7 is ideal
 
12.3 isn't good, can you measure the cranking voltage? Much less than 11 and the battery is toast.
It might start, but ECUs will be getting low voltage while cranking which can give odd/random faults
You also want to measure what voltage you're getting with the engine running.. 13.8 and your battery won't last add long as it should, 14.7 is ideal
13.8v when running it is :(
 
At least it's charging. Modern batteries like a higher voltage and won't last as long.
You can replace the regulator quite cheaply if the rest of the alternator (bearings etc) is ok.. there's a few freds onnit.. search for mobiltron
Yes, but, no, but...... can you change the regulator in-situ without removing the alternator and putting it on a bench? The world needs to know.
 
Yes, but, no, but...... can you change the regulator in-situ without removing the alternator and putting it on a bench? The world needs to know.
I would have thought you have to take it off the car - or at least remove the plastic cover at the back - on older vehicles it just screwed in from behind lol
 
At least it's charging. Modern batteries like a higher voltage and won't last as long.
You can replace the regulator quite cheaply if the rest of the alternator (bearings etc) is ok.. there's a few freds onnit.. search for mobiltron
BOSCH 1197311549 is the part number for the 150amp regulator but can't find one anywhere on the net
 
Yes, but, no, but...... can you change the regulator in-situ without removing the alternator and putting it on a bench? The world needs to know.

You can on the oil burner although easier off. Petrol should be easy given its position.
 
You can on the oil burner although easier off. Petrol should be easy given its position.
if you can find one
upload_2022-4-27_20-36-38.png
 
battery put on charge from 6pm last night to 9am this morning - voltage now measures 13.4 volts engine off - took it for a run - abs & tc lights still on
 
Possibly but hard to say, not easy to trace without diag because the warning stays on the dash until the car moves
 

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