jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if it was so simple, firstly you cant get the bolts and 2ndly they are loctiteted with perm loctite, as recommended
loctites destroyed by heat ,what about nylocs at std torque
loctites destroyed by heat ,what about nylocs at std torque
using engineers blue on bearings to see if still true??
fett
Well-Known Member
ok so james u saying leave studs in and run at std 55/70ftlbs with nyloc nuts? would they stay done up with the heat?
mr efi, I am not sure that the 40 year old threads (I got the studs to protect, thats a laugh now lol) would stand the heat to remove the high temp high strength loctite, I had to get the high temp as it had the longest open time and they had to be assembled and torqued up before it cured. bit of a bugger.
I am waiting on a mate to lend me his bre guage so I can get a more accurate measure of round and see if the caps are distorted if ok I will then get the mountings real clean and try with last set of shells? that sound like an ok plan guys?
mr efi, I am not sure that the 40 year old threads (I got the studs to protect, thats a laugh now lol) would stand the heat to remove the high temp high strength loctite, I had to get the high temp as it had the longest open time and they had to be assembled and torqued up before it cured. bit of a bugger.
I am waiting on a mate to lend me his bre guage so I can get a more accurate measure of round and see if the caps are distorted if ok I will then get the mountings real clean and try with last set of shells? that sound like an ok plan guys?
fett
Well-Known Member
not heard of metlock, winder if they do them in this old fashioned thread?
the force to turn the crank is what alerted me to this in the first place fanny, considering I had used the super slick and expensive clevite bearing guard to build it it should have been easy but what I noticed was that if I had 2 caps or more done up (in any combination more or less) I couldnt turn the crank by hand and had to put a bar on the crank nut, with a bar it was easy but when I stripped it to investigate the rub marks on the shells revealed all was not right (take a look at the pics back a bit)
the force to turn the crank is what alerted me to this in the first place fanny, considering I had used the super slick and expensive clevite bearing guard to build it it should have been easy but what I noticed was that if I had 2 caps or more done up (in any combination more or less) I couldnt turn the crank by hand and had to put a bar on the crank nut, with a bar it was easy but when I stripped it to investigate the rub marks on the shells revealed all was not right (take a look at the pics back a bit)
not heard of metlock, winder if they do them in this old fashioned thread?
the force to turn the crank is what alerted me to this in the first place fanny, considering I had used the super slick and expensive clevite bearing guard to build it it should have been easy but what I noticed was that if I had 2 caps or more done up (in any combination more or less) I couldnt turn the crank by hand and had to put a bar on the crank nut, with a bar it was easy but when I stripped it to investigate the rub marks on the shells revealed all was not right (take a look at the pics back a bit)
Search Metal Lock Nut and make sure grade is correct.
What is it like at standard rover setting?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
not heard of metlock, winder if they do them in this old fashioned thread?
the force to turn the crank is what alerted me to this in the first place fanny, considering I had used the super slick and expensive clevite bearing guard to build it it should have been easy but what I noticed was that if I had 2 caps or more done up (in any combination more or less) I couldnt turn the crank by hand and had to put a bar on the crank nut, with a bar it was easy but when I stripped it to investigate the rub marks on the shells revealed all was not right (take a look at the pics back a bit)
they just use squashed metal locking ring rather than nylon ,nylocs as good as any but both are available
3.5 efi
Well-Known Member
not heard of metlock, winder if they do them in this old fashioned thread?
the force to turn the crank is what alerted me to this in the first place fanny, considering I had used the super slick and expensive clevite bearing guard to build it it should have been easy but what I noticed was that if I had 2 caps or more done up (in any combination more or less) I couldnt turn the crank by hand and had to put a bar on the crank nut, with a bar it was easy but when I stripped it to investigate the rub marks on the shells revealed all was not right (take a look at the pics back a bit)
should pull it down evenly along its length.
fett
Well-Known Member
efi, thanks - that was my last plan before taking the crank back out which I have now done as the crank turns fine at 55ftlbs which is the std bolt torque (and half the 110ftlbs that real steel and arp recommend now) but according to real steel that is so loose the nuts will drop off? after a short while, also I wondered if it would be impeeding the oil film considering the marks I had on the shells both mine and previous owners?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
thats why you use locking nuts , lr do on some engines
A fair and honest response.
that answers your question too fanny
Now I would suggest engineering blue, locking nuts and standard torque-see what it yields when stripped- at worst a set of locking nuts v damaged engine
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fett
Well-Known Member
It turns nice at std torque is what I was saying, okif it can be sorted with locking nuts its a cheap and easy fix if they do them at 7/16 unf ?
