very kind :D

I am a bit of hoarder of landy parts, much like you I bid on stuff ending at 2am when no one else does and get it cheap, its all early suffix A rrc stuff for my old girl too :)
 
That fuel pump was an evening finish, 20th October, just no bidders.

Got two new complete front timing covers for late 3.9 V8, £50 each, against £250+ each, loads like that.

You need the cash and space to store the stuff, but there are some real bargains out there.

Peter
 
fett said:
mine are so old the have the solid top bush :p
Click to expand...

Railko bushes weren't a bad thing, but no good for ABS clearances, which I think is why they went to taper rollers top and bottom.

No1 son has a Defender CSW, 1991, with Railko bushes in.

Peter
 
I am amazed its all on the orginal swivel seals, bushes and wheel bearings and its not let me down yet :D
 
fett said:
I am amazed its all on the orginal swivel seals, bushes and wheel bearings and its not let me down yet :D
Click to expand...

They were pretty much sorted out on the Series vehicles, just beefed up a bit for the later vehicles, but they were tough as nails.

Peter
 
that explains a lot, I wish real steel had put that on there website and I never would have used them.

where does align honing now then? and does that affect the crankshaft grind and size of shells?

FFS
 
fett said:
that explains a lot, I wish real steel had put that on there website and I never would have used them.

where does align honing now then? and does that affect the crankshaft grind and size of shells?

FFS
Click to expand...

there you go then you did worry about that ,did you try with std bolts,never done it but i understand they mill some of mating face and then bore recreating original size ,but wont work if out too far
 
fett said:
that explains a lot, I wish real steel had put that on there website and I never would have used them.

where does align honing now then? and does that affect the crankshaft grind and size of shells?

FFS
Click to expand...

i'd just fit them, nip them and take down in tens to find tight point. strip and rebuild, bolts will still probably be tighter than standard.
 
Last edited:
it means thee extra torque down will need boring, if you haven't fitted then forget them- if you have carefully check that the shell alignment isn't distorted if you use o.e.m
 
if it was so simple, firstly you cant get the bolts and 2ndly they are loctiteted with perm loctite, as recommended :(
 
also though looking back at the state of the 30k shells that came out from the previous owner who was running the std bolts something wsnt right then either as some were down to the copper
 
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