discomark10
Well-Known Member
run the vernier over the crank journals mate and get us some " readings
discomark10
Well-Known Member
that its probly not the crank
fett
Well-Known Member
ok well thats something lol
can we also assume that if the previous owner had fitted the .10 bearings to a std crank there would be no white metal at all left on the old bearings and that mine would have been scrubbed evenly or the crank would not have even turned by hand?
can we also assume that if the previous owner had fitted the .10 bearings to a std crank there would be no white metal at all left on the old bearings and that mine would have been scrubbed evenly or the crank would not have even turned by hand?
discomark10
Well-Known Member
it wouldnt have worked with +10 shells, be way to tight, think you might have to look at what someone else said.. twisted block, but not 100% on that
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discomark10
Well-Known Member
might sound silly, but is the block and caps clean of all dirt and crud?
the pressure marks on the shells are very odd, one has a small raised part and the other are in the middle which suggests they are not pressing down right
the pressure marks on the shells are very odd, one has a small raised part and the other are in the middle which suggests they are not pressing down right
fett
Well-Known Member
you know what, there was one lump I cleaned off which I wondered may explain the worst bottom shell or some of it, however the rest of them no and also I would be surprised if the last builder had had crap in the same place and his shells were worn in a similar fashion to my shiny marks but obviously right down to the copper from 30k miles of running 
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Ok well thats the one bit. The otheres are odd. I think it might be worth getting them bored out if your block is stright.
Have you got a nice metal ruler you can rest over a few of the shell seats to see they are right... if you get what I mean.
Have you got a nice metal ruler you can rest over a few of the shell seats to see they are right... if you get what I mean.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
on the old shells the wear marks would be all evenly on the bottom if block was straightyou know what, there was one lump I cleaned off which I wondered may explain the worst bottom shell or some of it, however the rest of them no and also I would be surprised if the last builder had had crap in the same place and his shells were worn in a similar fashion to my shiny marks but obviously right down to the copper from 30k miles of running
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
not necessarily but positon of wear on old shells and new marks om new can help indicate
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
so whats the next move then master tech?
normally i have the evidence to examine ,even things like tightening order ,have you tried other shells
fett
Well-Known Member
not yet, I was thinking of giving the block a good scrape then fitting them and hoping but if Im wrong I loose my last chance at seeing the marks again. also if original last owner shells were down to copper in some places(maybe same places as marks) whats the chance it would be different now?
Plus hat bearing guard is expensive
Plus hat bearing guard is expensive
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
not yet, I was thinking of giving the block a good scrape then fitting them and hoping but if Im wrong I loose my last chance at seeing the marks again. also if original last owner shells were down to copper in some places(maybe same places as marks) whats the chance it would be different now?
Plus hat bearing guard is expensive
bearing guard ?if a crank is running true it will show the same wear in every cap ie if some shells have wear to one side others another then somethings bent
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
its not needed if stuff is ok ,oil changes over the years are ,which pics old shells
