discomark10

Well-Known Member

• Aug 27, 2013

• #521

You could check the rods are on right (should be jm said, dimples face each other for each pair) get the gudgeon pins centered in the piston and see if you have 4 offset a bit one side and 4 the other

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 3, 2013

• #522

Ok so torqued up the main studs to the ARP recommended* amount and after about 2 or three caps are torqued up you can no long turn the crank without the use of tools (Stiltons, I know I am bad!) on the crank nut.

Now IRRC the setting for normal bolts is 55ftlbs? and more for the back cap.

ARP/REAL STEEL are saying 90ftlbs , and after phone call from me saying it must be too high, they upped it to 110ftlbs

I am thinking that is a bit high for a 40 year old ally block? Also guys do you think it could be causing the crank to nip? I will find out I guess next week when I have time to slacken them- but what then lol

 

discomark10

Well-Known Member

• Sep 3, 2013

• #523

is the crank reground?

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #524

yeah .10 under

 

discomark10

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #525

Might be worth measuring each one with a vernier. Silly question but you have got +10 shells right? Not +20

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #526

lol yeah they are .10, man was it a quest to get them! got 2 sets now though lol.

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #527

oh and the machine shop measured the crank and said it was perfect and just needed a machine polish, hmmm what do I do now lol

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #528

fett said:

oh and the machine shop measured the crank and said it was perfect and just needed a machine polish, hmmm what do I do now lol

Click to expand...

check the shells a look for polished area

 

discomark10

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #529

jamesmartin said:

check the shells a look for polished area

Click to expand...

good call, it'l tell you where its binding. I'de still measure them, to be sure.. to be sure! and make sure there is no high spots on the block.

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #530

done the shiny check and nowt shows

Maybe because the clevite super molly lube is too good?

 

discomark10

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #531

the smooth bit would be caused by compression rather than worn smooth

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #532

 

discomark10

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #533

Have you got a vernier caliper?

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #534

fett said:

done the shiny check and nowt shows

Maybe because the clevite super molly lube is too good?

Click to expand...

lol trust you to use something so slippy even been tight doesnt show

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #535

well they do like it slippery

yes I do have vernias

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #536

do the normal rv8 caps have arrows on them?

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #537

no

 

fett

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #538

nutbags, right better look up to be sure they face waterpump end, they would be mad not to though right? lol

 

discomark10

Well-Known Member

• Sep 4, 2013

• #539

defo think its worth measuring them all, and also the opening with the caps on and shells in.

 

Mr Noisy

Coming in your ears.

• Sep 5, 2013

• #540

Standard big end caps have dimples that have to face each other, as I'm sure you know.

Main caps aren't marked though iirc, as above.

But yeah like mark says, if its binding its cos something is too big.

Measure it all and the mystery will be revealed!