I say adjust them all because it makes sence. But ide double check, mine were fine so didnt have to.
Yea mine runs great mechanical wise, still got the dam dizzy missfire from before the rebuild, which I'm lost on!
 
I was a bit cheeky but what I did was measure the top one against the other rings and then only remove the top one from the piston and fit it to its respective bore and measure the end gap. I could get the 0.15 feeler gauge in ok on them all so happy with that.

Got the crank in last night which was a bit of a faff tbh as the ARP studs had to be loctited in but they also had to be torqued up before the loctite set up and the longest set up time I could find was 10 mins (bloody stuff cost me £35 for 50ml), so with loctite ,assembly lube, bearing guard and on the back cap it was also instant gasket and 3 rubber seals it was a right pain lol.

Right questions: with the pistons and rods, Goodness knows when it say the left and right hand bank which way up the engine is etc as each of my 3 manuals describes it differently. Also I am limited by which way the machine shop pressed the pistons on to the rods.

So providing the pistons all have the front stamped at the front and the pimple on each rod face each other on each journal can any of it be wrong?

As I have new pistons and a re-bore does it matter on the rods going back on the crank where they were before?

Also unfortunately the arp big end bolt kit seems to be a right pain, after banging out the old one (scary) we had to wind the new ones in and now it seems that the caps are tight to fit, once you get them about 10mm from closed the click down and are a barstool to get off again ie you cant just pull them off by hand, it makes me think they don't go in square? it also said in the paperwork hidden/sealed in the pack that when the new bolts are fitted the caps should be re-sized, wtf is all that about? good of RS to tell me the PITA they are for £100 :(
 
Why would you have the caps resized...?
Best way to tell if the pistons are right for the bore is measure them, if they are all the same... don't matter, but if not then they need matching.
My main caps were a bitch to remove with no bolts let alone studs in them!
 
Im talking big end caps mate :)

Re pistons I never measured the pistons themselves but the fitted nice :D
 
you check caps by tightening bolts nuts up to correct torque and checking size and roundness with bore guage,rods can be fitted to any journal or piston ,worth checking all weigh the same ,and pistons move very freely on gudgeon pin
 
pistons are ok on the pin, but what about the fact you now cant pull the cap off the rod with you hands? without the nut on obviously? I wonder if somehow they are not it straight?
 
should pull/tap off with some dificulty till moving and absolutely squarely,should be a clolse dowel fit once fully home
 
oh caps, sorry my bad! my caps were mixed tsome come off easyer than others and when i measured them the 5th time round after matching them well, they were all close in measurement with only a tiny difference.
I doubt they will need rebolting.
 
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I am so not sure on these and have no experience of re-bolting 40 year old big end caps. James I may ship them up to you for you to see what you think and measure if that agreeable? I can send some beer too, its just I cant risk them going bang as they are one of the few unique parts on the 4.4 and I wont be getting any more!! plus f it goes bang it will most likely take out the rest of it all too :(
 
Great thanks mate, u back a work this week? do you need the new shells or old with them? I will have to get one new stud from RS as the thread stripped as we were winding it in which does not fill me with confidence as we a had a full nuts worth on it at the time :eek: so I will give them a ring tomorrow and check if they can send it direct to you or what lol.

can you guys confirm my question about the rod direction, ie if the pimples face inward toward each other on the same journal and the pistons are marked front and that faced the front of the block can any of it be wrong? can the rods still be the wrong way round if pressed on wrong somehow?
 
fett said:
Great thanks mate, u back a work this week? do you need the new shells or old with them? I will have to get one new stud from RS as the thread stripped as we were winding it in which does not fill me with confidence as we a had a full nuts worth on it at the time :eek: so I will give them a ring tomorrow and check if they can send it direct to you or what lol.

can you guys confirm my question about the rod direction, ie if the pimples face inward toward each other on the same journal and the pistons are marked front and that faced the front of the block can any of it be wrong? can the rods still be the wrong way round if pressed on wrong somehow?
Click to expand...

new check bearing nip as well,pimples face each other,pistons face front of engine ,they can be fitted wrong ,ie you need 4 of each way
 
damn, cos I have no clue when the machine shop pressed the pistons on how he worked out what was what and how to work out now what should be where as the manual doesnt say which way up the engine should be or which way is left or right hand side of it. plus I have them numbered when removed but now he has pressed pins in wrong to get that to work when viewed from the the front and top but works ok when viewed from upside down.


arrrggghhhh! :(
 
4 piston with f and dimple one way 4 the other ,simples,normally when i get a set of pistons i check by measuring they are a sized set then bore engine to suit ,then after fitting pistons to rods ,allocate piston to cylinder as rings are gapped bearing in mind rod dimple
 
ok so as long as I got pimples facing and pistons with front it cant be wrong? I will ask you to check them mate. If I ship them wed will u be there to get them?
 
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