Ok I have 5980 in the workshop, it's **** hot gear and very handy in that pressure tube thing, it is a gasket maker so i use this when i have no gasket available, frankly its better than gasket cos gaskets leak, use that for all sorts of jobs it's awesome, very sticky, very sealy, sets semi hard its great stuff also use it on exhaust joints instead of paste it is superb, wipes the floor with old fashioned paste
5920 I keep in the car for field repairs but have never used it to date
5900, 574, 518 not used
Halfords | Loctite 5922 Flange Sealant 60ml
This is the one I use for gasket improvement, it's non hardening, similar to hermatite blue basically
So between 5922 and 5980 it's everything I need
back in old days before the new silicons, we used a gasket cement on both side and the assembled. At times when going to proper torque you can squeeze all or most of silicon out and end up with a metal to metal surface contact and then a leak appears down the road
fett
Well-Known Member
5980 it is then noisy, sounds like the best stuff and I am guessing with what you do oil and coolant dont bother it, and you say the adhesion is good, thats what I need!
thor, there is no gasket just thin paper stuck to the tin already on both sides around the ports.
james do you agree 5980 is the best stuff for this job?
thor, there is no gasket just thin paper stuck to the tin already on both sides around the ports.
james do you agree 5980 is the best stuff for this job?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
exhaust should be dry with new gaskets
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
seems good better than std silicone and it works ok ,you only want a fine bead
fett
Well-Known Member
used for water pumps, both metal surfaces then the gasket. works great, but a real bitch to get off, need razor blade/scraper
fett
Well-Known Member
Did a bit more this weeks, still waiting on the cam and for the main studs to come in to RS so they can ship all my other bits too.
the valve stem seals had a couple that were fooked , do they look like later rv8 ones? I have only ever had the early flat ones so have no idea.
sadly when I stripped the valves out for a quick clean and lap there was more play in the guides that I could make myself happy with, bit **** as they were only supposed to have done 5k km since a refurb. anyway they are away at the machine shop for new ones at £5 each plus vat. more ****ed off about having to clean the heads again when they get back than anything as they were soooo clean after all that work!
Got the inlet cleaned up, the brass cups for the dremal did last more than 1 min a piece, thats an expensive method!
20 liters of comma sonic turned up for the first few runs etc and I decided on permatex the right stuff for my instant gasket as RS reckon its the best and at £20 its gotta be good!
the bmw is here at last in its new home and we took out the 72 for laning in some rare sun while I wait for bits. I have to say having the bmw at hand makes you realise how slow most other stuff is!
Head And Inlet Work Photos by fett8 | Photobucket
the valve stem seals had a couple that were fooked , do they look like later rv8 ones? I have only ever had the early flat ones so have no idea.
sadly when I stripped the valves out for a quick clean and lap there was more play in the guides that I could make myself happy with, bit **** as they were only supposed to have done 5k km since a refurb. anyway they are away at the machine shop for new ones at £5 each plus vat. more ****ed off about having to clean the heads again when they get back than anything as they were soooo clean after all that work!
Got the inlet cleaned up, the brass cups for the dremal did last more than 1 min a piece, thats an expensive method!
20 liters of comma sonic turned up for the first few runs etc and I decided on permatex the right stuff for my instant gasket as RS reckon its the best and at £20 its gotta be good!
the bmw is here at last in its new home and we took out the 72 for laning in some rare sun while I wait for bits. I have to say having the bmw at hand makes you realise how slow most other stuff is!
Head And Inlet Work Photos by fett8 | Photobucket
fett
Well-Known Member
ok gents I have enough bits here to put the bottom end together at least-at last lol.
question1. the ARP main studs and head studs have between 3 and 6mm less thread on them than the bolts they are replacing, will that be ok?
question2. ive got the one piece oil rings and all the rings are already on the pistons, does anyone still gap rings? and if so how do I go about it?
Many thanks.
question1. the ARP main studs and head studs have between 3 and 6mm less thread on them than the bolts they are replacing, will that be ok?
question2. ive got the one piece oil rings and all the rings are already on the pistons, does anyone still gap rings? and if so how do I go about it?
Many thanks.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
of course you should still gap rings ,remove ring and push down bore 4cm ish with upside down piston,file if gaps too small rings are marked top or any markings indicate top when refitting
discomark10
Well-Known Member
I gapped mine.
I Would say the holes in the block wont have thread all the way to the bottom, so no matter.
I Would say the holes in the block wont have thread all the way to the bottom, so no matter.
discomark10
Well-Known Member
Gap? I think it was 15-20 thou. Measure the gap with fealer gauges.
