does anyone use anything apart from rtv silicone? im not a fan of hylomar as long term oil seems to disolve it. in addtion I am looking for something a bit harder and more adhesive for the inlet manifold to head joints, particularly around the waterways which are known to be a problem to seal on these engines. have you noticed silicone is a bit to easy to get off? I have
 
fett said:
does anyone use anything apart from rtv silicone? im not a fan of hylomar as long term oil seems to disolve it. in addtion I am looking for something a bit harder and more adhesive for the inlet manifold to head joints, particularly around the waterways which are known to be a problem to seal on these engines. have you noticed silicone is a bit to easy to get off? I have
Click to expand...

many and oil pick up blocked by silcone
 
fett said:
does anyone use anything apart from rtv silicone? im not a fan of hylomar as long term oil seems to disolve it. in addtion I am looking for something a bit harder and more adhesive for the inlet manifold to head joints, particularly around the waterways which are known to be a problem to seal on these engines. have you noticed silicone is a bit to easy to get off? I have
Click to expand...
depends whih you use
you can get better types of silicone,wurth did some specialist ones
 
those locations plus ,borgwarner t/box as case is in two halfs ,oil resistant heat proof etc a lot more so than std silicone ,not cheap£20-30 but good for high risk areas ,hylomar is really for paper gaskets , though old fashioned setting stuff isnt bad
 
just ordered some oil filters, they are longer than the current ones on the 72. so long as the thread is right and the O ring seats properly am I right in thinking the filter will work?
 
its 150mm instead of 105mm , I ad a look and it looks like it will miss, so it probably wont :p
 
thor the most important will be inlet to block ie valley which is known leak point on 4.4 also though rear cap and front cover and the bodched front crank seal I have. less important is rockers and sump and stat as they can be messed with more easily when engine is in the car,
 
I also wonder about the max gap of 0.3m being enough with the known bad fit of the inlet to heads, the 1mm looked good but low sheer strength
 
fett said:
thor the most important will be inlet to block ie valley which is known leak point on 4.4 also though rear cap and front cover and the bodched front crank seal I have. less important is rockers and sump and stat as they can be messed with more easily when engine is in the car,
Click to expand...

put a coating on each side of valley tin.

Really I would not use that as a replacement for the gaskets, use with them
 
Last edited:
fett said:
I also wonder about the max gap of 0.3m being enough with the known bad fit of the inlet to heads, the 1mm looked good but low sheer strength
Click to expand...
you dont want too much thickness its gasket thats sealing and thats just filling the imperfections,silicone works so dont see why that shouldnt
 
Ok I have 5980 in the workshop, it's **** hot gear and very handy in that pressure tube thing, it is a gasket maker so i use this when i have no gasket available, frankly its better than gasket cos gaskets leak, use that for all sorts of jobs it's awesome, very sticky, very sealy, sets semi hard its great stuff also use it on exhaust joints instead of paste it is superb, wipes the floor with old fashioned paste

5920 I keep in the car for field repairs but have never used it to date :p

5900, 574, 518 not used

Halfords | Loctite 5922 Flange Sealant 60ml

This is the one I use for gasket improvement, it's non hardening, similar to hermatite blue basically

So between 5922 and 5980 it's everything I need
 
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