Sorry gents, bit late in from work and just logged on.
In brief I'm ok and it's a dust shield, incorporated in the seal I bought, that has caused the confusion for me.
It's hard to explain, so I'm busy doing a quick sketch. A picture paints a thousand words and all that.
It's a big relief and will save me many hours of work taking it all apart again.
Back soon.
 
Right, I've done a quick drawing.
Rear Crank Oil Seal.jpg


The first one on the left shows a standards OEM seal which is made of a fairly rigid plastic type material, which when fitted you would expect to be able to see the curve of the plastic going in along the journal.

The middle drawing shows what I remember my seal looking like. The outer surface of the seal had a fibrous texture to it, almost like black blotting paper (a bit tighter weave than blotting paper). I thought this was an integral part of the seal. So in my picture, in earlier posts, when it looks like the seal is not curving inwards this is the dust shield part of the unit. In the last drawing on the right, I've drawn what seems to happen. The oil seal, being rigid, keeps pointing in towards the block and the dust shield must gather up a bit preventing you from seeing the actual oil seal inside.

I had quite a long conversation with Richard Turner, who was extremely helpful. Apparently, when production of these parts stopped over here they were still making them in South Africa, but to a different spec. ie included the dust shield and the oil seal sits further back on the journal. (some run very close to the inner edge of the journal and barely grip the journal surface at times) Richard was saying the same thing as @jamesmartin says about LR using the same suppliers of parts as Britpart, All Makes et al, but putting them in a green oval badged packet. Turners have found that these seals turn out to be more reliable, I think mainly because the point of seal is further back on the journal. I suppose the dust seal won't do any harm. Perhaps stopping clutch dust working it's way between the seal and the journal?

In short I thought the softer looking seal had folded back on itself due to me taking the guide sleeve out. However, it's the dust shield I'm looking at in those pictures.
Bit waffley, but I hope that makes sense.
 
@Saint.V8 Many thanks for the offer of the spare seal you have. That was very kind of you and I greatly appreciate it. Cheers :)
 
Sorry gents, bit late in from work and just logged on.
In brief I'm ok and it's a dust shield, incorporated in the seal I bought, that has caused the confusion for me.
It's hard to explain, so I'm busy doing a quick sketch. A picture paints a thousand words and all that.
It's a big relief and will save me many hours of work taking it all apart again.
Back soon.
And relax................................:)
 
@Saint.V8 Many thanks for the offer of the spare seal you have. That was very kind of you and I greatly appreciate it. Cheers :)
No bother....glad you got a resolution (and a good one at that!)....well done chap for not loosing your head over it!
 
No bother....glad you got a resolution (and a good one at that!)....well done chap for not loosing your head over it!
Cheers, Saint and thanks again. It would have been a bit of a sickener, but having just put the engine it it wouldn't have taken much to take it out again. I would have moved the power steering box though! The engine would fly in and out if it wasn't for that thing :mad: :rolleyes:
 
If I get home early on Thursday I might get some bits on. :p If not, something to look forward to at the weekend. :)
Gives you the rest of the week to finish up and make some checks then take your time at the weekend, maybe light up the barbi and get a brass band in for the big moment.
 
Gives you the rest of the week to finish up and make some checks then take your time at the weekend, maybe light up the barbi and get a brass band in for the big moment.
I think its a delaying tactic so he can get to 10,000 views and/or 1000 replies (whichever comes first) :D:D:D:D
 
Gives you the rest of the week to finish up and make some checks then take your time at the weekend, maybe light up the barbi and get a brass band in for the big moment.
I'll pass on the brass band and settle for the Mrs videoing the the start up.
I've decided what I'm going to do is get it ready so that when it starts I can drive it off to the main road and give it a hard drive for a canny distance. On the back of that running in oil thing, most of the things I've read point to driving a rebored/new pistons etc engine hard. This apparently creates cylinder pressure that pushes the rings in to the cylinders to bed them in. Just leaving the engine to tick over can allow the cylinders to 'glaze'. As you said before, you have to have a plan and just go for it!

I think its a delaying tactic so he can get to 10,000 views and/or 1000 replies (whichever comes first) :D:D:D:D
I've never looked at any of those figures, but I'm off to look now! :)
 
I'll pass on the brass band and settle for the Mrs videoing the the start up.
I've decided what I'm going to do is get it ready so that when it starts I can drive it off to the main road and give it a hard drive for a canny distance. On the back of that running in oil thing, most of the things I've read point to driving a rebored/new pistons etc engine hard. This apparently creates cylinder pressure that pushes the rings in to the cylinders to bed them in. Just leaving the engine to tick over can allow the cylinders to 'glaze'. As you said before, you have to have a plan and just go for it!

That's something I thought about when I do my engine, I already planned a route down to knaresborough, onto the A1 up to Ripon and back round again, plan three or four laps, gives me normal roads, and motorway with uphill and downhill stretches, but keeps me no more than about 15 Mls from home.
It's your game but I would suggest not to worry about a bit of ticking over, and I would not push a cold engine, even when run in, when it gets hot everything is expanded to its normal dimensions oil is hot and has had a good chance to coat everything, get it warm before pushing it.
When it's cold things are tight and the oil is thicker.
 
That's something I thought about when I do my engine, I already planned a route down to knaresborough, onto the A1 up to Ripon and back round again, plan three or four laps, gives me normal roads, and motorway with uphill and downhill stretches, but keeps me no more than about 15 Mls from home.
It's your game but I would suggest not to worry about a bit of ticking over, and I would not push a cold engine, even when run in, when it gets hot everything is expanded to its normal dimensions oil is hot and has had a good chance to coat everything.
When it's cold things are tight and the oil is thicker.
That sounds like a good plan, a local circular route. I've thought of one already :) Hadn't thought about not going too far from home :rolleyes:
Will defo let it get warmed up with gentle driving first.
 
And DO NOT forget to crank her over with the stop solenoid disconnected to build oil pressure and fill the galleries first....don't get overly excited and just crank her up! (The car, not the missus!)
 
That sounds like a good plan, a local circular route. I've thought of one already :) Hadn't thought about not going too far from home :rolleyes:
Will defo let it get warmed up with gentle driving first.
It will probably smell a bit on the first run as oily hand marks and cleaning compounds etc burn off various bits and the block paint hardens up. No doubt you will have the urge to stop somewhere just to be sure everything is fine. No harm in a quick 'bonnet up' stop to look for leaks half way around.
 
@Kwakerman you got me mildly interested in thread stats before, so I looked up my old rebuild thread. I couldn't find how many views it had, but I could see that it had just over seven hundred and something replies. That was in 2+ years. This one has had more replies in 2+ months. o_O That's got to mean something......................................;)
 

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