nah, lift pump is pretty new, and not one of the cheap ones either (but not ruling it out...), so still looking to see if there is any other cause...

Like I say, just changed my fuel pump, so that may have clogged something somewhere that needs to clean out...who knows

check the injectors, mine were well fooked when I had the same symptoms in Janurary.

Daft question - how can you tell if they are fook'd by looking at them, or is it a case of once you take them out you can tell!

Cos damn they are expensive to replace all 4 of them

Especially no4 with the sensor on it

Just found this post...

jamesmartin said:

undo each one in turn the one that doesnt alter engine running when slackened is faulty others may stall it ,keeps hands away from injector

Click to expand...

So I will have a go doing this test first to see if it shows up anything.

Daft question, but any special tool or procedure required to remove the injectors?

I took mine out with a shifting spanner

Sheeprus said:

shifting spanner

Click to expand...

StuRox said:

Click to expand...

Shift took the lines off and the the rest was simple mix of socket and spanner
(I did swear a lot and they were a pigging mess)

I've knicked this from somewhere else

So, tackled the fuel injector replacement today...first, let me say that it was ridiculously easy. I tend to "overthink" my projects before doing them, and this was no exception - but it was uncessary.

I will also say that it was worth it's weight in gold - quieted the engine right down. Not that it was deafening or anything prior, but I was just starting to get a slight "hammering" on the engine as is notorious for tired injectors. After replacement noticed an immediate sound reduction at idle, and also at highway speed (and everywhere in between). I can hear the boost kick in clear as day on the highway now, whereas before it was getting overshadowed by the engine noise. I honestly can't believe it...money well spent. Looking forward to seeing what this does to my fuel economy, which was down to 22-23mpg (though not bad for a 110 with terrible aerodynamics and 235/85-16 KM2s).

So here's a play-by-play best as I can recall, with PICTURES BELOW matching up to each numbered step:

1) Remove the hood - just helps to make more room under the hood for working.

2) Before getting started, CLEAN the engine around the injectors thoroughly...you don't want any gunk/etc falling down into the injector holes once you remove everything. I had recently degreased my engine so it wasn't too bad, but hit it with Brakleen anyhow to get any residue off.

3) Crack the FUEL SPILL RAIL bolts (I think they were 12mm), but be gentle - you don't want to snap/strip these, and they shouldn't be on there too hard anyhow. Start with one and work your way down as you'll be moving the entire rail out of the way.

4) Move the spill rail out of the way once all the bolts are undone.

5) There is a bracket/plate that holds each of the injectors in place, and each plate is held down by a nut fastened to a stud. Undo each of these and remove the nut (NOTE FOR LATER: when putting these back ON, be careful not to over-torque them...I cracked one of the studs on reassembly - but it was a quick trip to the hardware store for a replacement but could have been avoided).

6) Once each nut is removed on the bracket/plate, move to the fuel pipe connection at the top of the injector. Likewise, crack each one first - being gentle - and then remove each pipe from the injector. Be careful just to gently move them to the side, keeping in mind that the pipe goes directly to the fuel pump and is a hard line so you want to make sure not to bend/kink these. But moving them out of the way will allow you enough room to work for injector removal.

7) Pic of the injector once everything is disconnected.

8) The next step is to see if the injector is "stuck" to the block, or if it moves freely and *hopefully* will come out. I put a 15mm wrench on the injector and gently wiggled everything back and forth to check for movement and ensure that the injector would come free easily. I lucked out, each injector moved back and forth without a problem - though from my preliminary reading "stuck" injectors can certainly be an issue. Other options if this happens are: a) affix a slide hammer to the threaded end of the injector and remove...this is the preferred method, or b) once the injector is unhooked you can use the engine "compression" by turning it over to shoot the injector out...BUT this is not recommended, can be dangerous, and if undertaken one must put a heavy blanket/etc over each injector to absorb the injector as it shoots out - again NOT recommended and I take no responsibility for issues with this.

9) Once each injector was unhooked and I verified that each was wiggling and looked loose enough to remove without issue, I simply put a pair of vice grips on each to get some upward leverage and wiggled it up and out. During this motion, the bracket/plate that holds each injector in place will also work it's way up and eventually you'll be able to slip this plate free once it clears the mounting stud that each holding nut affixes to (but you'll recall we had previously removed each nut from the studs).

10) Pic of the plate/bracket that holds the injector in place coming free.

11) If you're lucky - like I was - your injector will pull free and come right out as shown here.

12) Make sure the injector has the copper washer on the end of it, you don't want this to accidentally be stuck down in the injector hole on the block otherwise you'll have a leaky injector gauranteed.

13) Get your new injector out and ready to go in.

14) Slip a new copper washer on the injector...you DEFINITELY want to put on new washers, do NOT recycle the old ones or they may be prone to leak, causing you more headaches than the $0.50 for each new washer.

15) I used a dab of grease on the copper washer before putting it on the injector in order to help it stay put while I inserted it back into the injector port in the block - keep in mind you're turning this upside down so you don't want the copper washer to slip off and fall into the injector hole since fishing it back out would be a pain in the arse, so the grease is just helping to fight gravity and keep it stuck to the injector.

16) Speaking of copper washers, each bolt on the fuel spill rail (taken off in step 3) has two copper washers on each bolt, one on the outside and one on the inside as shown here. Make sure to likewise replace each of these washers as well.

THAT'S IT! Essentially, reverse the steps slipping the new injector into each port, hook everything back up, snug up all bolts/etc, and you're all set. While you're in there, you may want to inspect the fuel spill rail rubber tubing (with the cloth sleeve) to make sure it is in good shape. Mine looked fine, and I opted not to replace it...though to be cautious I probably should have and will in the near future - but this can be replaced without taking anthying apart so it can be done at any time.

WORD OF CAUTION #1: as I mentioned above on #5, when torquing the injector bracket/plate that holds the injector in place, these slip over a stud that protrudes from the block. There is a nut that then fits on the stud and you tighten up to keep things in place. I over-torqued mine and broke it right off...so I had to hit the hardware store for a replacement (which I think was just a standard automotive M8 stud that worked just fine). The LAST TWO PICS show the broken stud and the hole where the stud screws into the block. This probably applies to all of the above steps, take it easy and don't feel the need to "Hercules" anything like I did.

WORD OF CAUTION #2: on first test drive, I noticed one of my injectors was leaking. Took it home, popped the injector out, and there was a lot of crud that must have fallen in the hole when I removed the injector...it was caked to the copper washer and was preventing it from making a good seal. I cleaned everything off, reassembled, and it didn't leak a drop after that.

All-in-all, if I hadn't broken the stud I probably would have been done with this in less than an hour from start to finish. Honestly, it was unbelievably easy and straightforward - and again I notice positive results from the new injectors right away. I highly recommend it for anyone that is in the 70k-80k mileage range like I was.

If there's anything I missed or something that people would like to add, feel free - just figured this may help others that are contemplating an injector change in the near future.

This was stolen from here so no credit what so ever to me to be fair

300 tdi fuel injector replacement (HOW TO) - The Defender Source

Cheers mate

Just came across this too...

Fuel injector Nozzle 300Tdi ERR3339NZ Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Are these just a quick fix, and should I buy new injectors, or will this work? As can get 4 of these for the price of one full injector.

All hypothetical for now, as I need to have a look at my injectors - but best be prepared

Right, just undid the fuel lines to each of the injectors one at a time as the engine was running.

As I slowly undid the nut on the top of each injector in turn, it made the idle run lumpy. Not one seemed any different from the others. Maybe at a struggle the rear 2 made the engine slightly more lumpy, or maybe I just undid those nuts more than the front ones.

So do you reckon I can rule out the injectors, as I certainly don't have £200.00 odd quid spare to replace all 4, or should I try the nozzles in my post above?

StuRox said:

Right, just undid the fuel lines to each of the injectors one at a time as the engine was running.

As I slowly undid the nut on the top of each injector in turn, it made the idle run lumpy. Not one seemed any different from the others. Maybe at a struggle the rear 2 made the engine slightly more lumpy, or maybe I just undid those nuts more than the front ones.

So do you reckon I can rule out the injectors, as I certainly don't have £200.00 odd quid spare to replace all 4, or should I try the nozzles in my post above?

Click to expand...

Doesn't sound like an injector problem to me. I can't remember/find what is the problem you are trying to solve? With TDi's the main issues tend to be: fuel sedimenter partially/fully blocked, air leaks, weak lift pump, etc

I get power loss at around 3k revs if accelerating, not always and not speed dependant - as can be in 2nd gear going up a hill or at 60mph.

No sedimenter, as that's been bi-passed - lift pump, pretty new and a decent one. Just changed fuel filter. Fuel lines are all pretty new so don't think air getting in, as also have changed the leak off pipes. Hence injectors were suggested

One of the Turbos pipes collapsing under boost?
My old RS Turbo did that, the worn pipe sucked itself flat under pressure.
Just my thoughts.

Fozziediscovery.

Just replaced the pipes with 4 ply silicone ones, so hope they aren't collapsing...thats why its bugging me, as all the things I think it can be, have been changed - and its not something I can make happen either

I've just fitted this mod to my ES so will take her for a run later to get her up to temp, I'm hoping this will solve my power issue when towing up stairs.

Ok had a few days of using the mod and yes I feel it makes a fair difference in the pull away and and general running, As for the fuel because the wife uses it this time of year I don't know what its been like but as the engine ticks over faster surely it has to use more?.
Now that I have done this I think it works well with the decat and egr removal I'm just wondering if anyone has done it and now runs on veggie oil also?

Any further updates on the performance mod.....I an thinking of giving it a go too!!

Made the box up and fitted it. End runs lumpy and stops when adjusted but no difference to the performance at all. This is my first disco and it runs great with no smoke but generally feels like it is sluggish and wants to go backwards on any incline!!

It has the egr blanked off, decat and sendimenter bypassed.

I am thinking to put a new air and fuel on in the next couple of days.

Any other suggestions???