been given a sankey narrow track. Would prefer a wide track but am not buying one!
Its sat on a driveway for a couple of years, and tub is badly rusted so will repair or replace. All else is present and (hopefully) will just need dismantling and refurbing etc.
Will post photos in here priobably, or start a new thread, i dunno, havent decided

Nice, I saw you found the Facebook group too. They are epic trailers!

Huddy84 said:

Nice, I saw you found the Facebook group too. They are epic trailers!

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yeah worst case scenario is i weigh it in, its got all the military fitments etc so would break for parts of it cant be repaired

Collected the manky sankey.

Tub is toast, as are the tyres so we trailered it.

Chassis is fine, brakes work and all bits are there apart from light lenses.

Found out the military reg. 03ES07 which puts it as built in 1966 and cast in 1999. Served all its life with 4/5 Green Howards.

Will start a new thread on it when I get to stripping it down!

Not done a huge amount recently, been concentrating on the Sankey, but I have found some time to do some minor wiring (2 x cigarette sockets and a hardwired dash cam and a hardwired charge port for my Bluetooth speaker)



Also I had a wheel stud that was a bit ropey - every time I took the nut off slivers of the steel thread came off so changed that, and took the opportunity to change all the studs for the 45mm ones. Not necessary but as I had to change one anyway, it made sense to do the rest.
The rear drums Studs can be done in situ, but the fronts need the hub stripping to do, so repacked the wheel bearings while at it.

should stop the mot man questioning it everytime I go in Lol

Oooo they were short them threads

Hicap phill said:

Oooo they were short them threads

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But perfectly safe at the increased torque setting Land Rover recommend.

If I hadn’t had a damaged stud I wouldn’t have changed them, I can’t work out how I damaged the stud anyway :/

Update on the stud changes.
rear can be done in situ with the drum off, front cannot be done in situ and the hub needs disassembling. Good excuse to service the wheel bearings though, also its easier to get the studs out on the bench as well, one big smack of a lump hammer and they fly out

Okay.
Got the tilt out of the rafter to fit for the summer.

have waxed it with a 90/10 paraffin/beeswax mix, 2 applications.
It’s the same tilt I brought from withams on the vehicle, it’s got a 1997 date in it so has lasted well!

Changed the downpipe today after I damaged the old one.

oelasantly surprised to find there was minimal rust behind the gearbox x-member


just needed a cup brush in a grinder, fertan rust converter and lashings of underbody wax

flat said:

Changed the downpipe today after I damaged the old one.

oelasantly surprised to find there was minimal rust behind the gearbox x-member
View attachment 232390

just needed a cup brush in a grinder, fertan rust converter and lashings of underbody wax

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Lucky! I usually expect to find a hole big enough you can stick your head in behind these!

And gave it a full service, all new filter, cleaned out the sedimenter, greased everything and did the tappets.

I have this gadget by Gunso for doing tappets and i keep trying it over the few years I have had it. I have finally decided I literally can’t get on with it....

Back to the spanner and screwdriver method!

So it’s been so long since the engine swap that it’s now time for a cambelt change.
Couldn’t believe how clean it was in the timing chest when I got it all apart! This is about 40k miles over 6 years (was a year late doing the cambelt due to covid!)

before


After


Whilst it was apart I (well a mate) blasted and painted the radiator surround frame which was a bit rusty




Whilst it was empty of coolant i also swapped out the 2.5na header tank for a larger 200tdi item.

then I shoved 3 litres of dynax s500 cavity wax in the chassis and bulkhead

she is in good order

Long road trip, bit of laning and my dash binnacle fell off

plastic had had it, only 1 mount was still intact. Have stripped it all off and a raptor metal dash abs binnacle have arrived ready to fit.

just waiting on a new coolant gauge (durite capillary) as when I took the dash off it was apparent the gauge was broken at the back )

Also going to take the opportunity to get rid of the ‘low fuel level sensor’ which has failed and making my gauge and light work funny and fit a spiyda high output unit in its place!

check the plastic dash! Surprised it lasted this long!
And check the pony bit of circuitry Solihull fitted

I had similar myself recently. If you haven’t already fit led instrument bulb replacements. I had to fit a raptor metal frame, I had a spare good OE binnacle.

Huddy84 said:

I had similar myself recently. If you haven’t already fit led instrument bulb replacements. I had to fit a raptor metal frame, I had a spare good OE binnacle.View attachment 245620View attachment 245621

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didnt know about the raptor lights. Will look into them.

I fitted the metal frame aswell not much more cost and I had it all in bits anyway!

my dash looks like this, any ideas on making the stock gauges brighter?

Hi mate, sorry for slow reply.

I bought these; https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/pr...androver-defender-dash-clock-led-bulb-upgrade

Direct replacement for the original bulbs (mine had melted the bulb holders on the speedo). I went for green ones, should make your original ones look just like your Durite one.

I fitted white LED’s to mine. Quite a bit brighter than green but look more modern (for a defender anyway... ) and you get used to them quickly. Well worth the fiver plus postage they cost.

Goddammit. Failed MoT

leaking fuel injector pump. Appears to be between the head and the body so hopefully just the O ring. You can just see a drop on that lowest bit….

Have ordered a couple of new viton O rings, hopefully I won’t balls it up!

Well that was not to bad, fair bit of dismantling of surrounding bits but it all came off okay. Old O ring was flat and brittle. New viton one went in fine so hopefully the leak is stopped.

It does feel quite sketchy though with that pump head wiggling about half out/in - I felt like I was mm away from disaster.

some photos
Start like this, most of that needs to come off


until it looks like this,‘it’s much easier to get the stop solenoid out of you remove the pump bracket from the block, you also need to remove the oil filter mount to get to the last torx fixing on the pump.


You absolutely need to make sure the pump is ‘on cam’ - I did this with a drill bit inserted in the timing port - then I turned the engine over with a socket on the crank bolt - you can watch the drill bit come out - when it’s out as far as it can then the pump is on cam and the spring pressure will stop the shim inside falling out, which would be bad.


Take the oil filter housing off, if you are careful then no oil will spill.


The I took out two bolts, on the diagonal. And wrapped the pump head in duct tape. Then I careful backed out the other two bolts - not all the way - just enough until I could see the O ring. This felt sketchy tbh.
This is actually a photo of the new O ring as I forgot to take a photo of the old one. Use a pick to remove the old o ring, mine came out in pieces and was flat and brittle.


Then lube everything up and stretch the new viton O ring (60mm x2.5mm) over the pump head and seat it into the groove - you have to do some switching around of the bolts to get it all in - there must be 2 bolts in at all time on the diagonal or the pump head will spill it’s contents and you will need to have someone rebuild the pump….
Before I dropped the O ring in I sprayed everything with brake cleaner to get any crud out.


Then carefully tighten down the pump head being absolutely attentive to the O ring to make sure it doesn’t get pinched and goes in smoothly. Then it’s just a case of reattaching everything that was taken off. Make sure everything that’s fuel system connections is spotless as you do not want contamination in the pump or injectors.

I haven’t started it yet, so will do that tomorrow and report back!