Have you got the little "book" warning sigh on the hevac heater until display?Just got the AC recharged, still not blowing cold. Cool air, but not cold.
Maybe the compressor or the blend motor/distribution flap is bad.
Got any tips?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Check the aircon pipes under the bonnet, one should be very hot the other freezing cold. If they are OK could be a blend motor problem, I'm assuming it's a P38. If the cold pipe is not very cold, check the electric fans work and that the condensor is not full of crap stopping the airflow.Just got the AC recharged, still not blowing cold. Cool air, but not cold.
Maybe the compressor or the blend motor/distribution flap is bad.
Got any tips?
i do not.
You are correct its a p38.
I'll start with that, i have moved the trans oil cooler in front of the ac condencer.
Never heard the fans turning on tho.
If the AC pipes are properly hot & cold, also check the Aspirator fan next to the clock, plus the Evaporator & Heater Core sensors.
Evap sensor is pushed into the right side of the heater box near the bulkhead. Heater core sensor is clipped onto one of the coolant pipes.
If blend motors are working & AC pipe is properly cold, sensor issues can cause the HEVAC to adjust incorrectly.
Evap sensor is pushed into the right side of the heater box near the bulkhead. Heater core sensor is clipped onto one of the coolant pipes.
If blend motors are working & AC pipe is properly cold, sensor issues can cause the HEVAC to adjust incorrectly.
hef19898
Well-Known Member
Good luck with the air condition!
I just used my lunch break to fix the rear bumper cover. The new exhaust gets hot, and it almost melted the olastic cover, enough for it to come loose at the clued / pressed in metal bits that screw on to the bracket on the bumper. Used some strong two component clue to clue it back on, the new clips, well, the bumper cover doesn't really snap into those. We'll see if it holds, wouldn't be the first one I loose somewhere!
Also studied the workshop manual. No mention of full harness replacements, but stripping the interior down enough to get access seems easy enough. Already all of that twice, with the exception of the top dashboard and instruments. Comes next once the carpets are all in, and the interior doesn't serve as a storage for assorted parts anymore!
I just used my lunch break to fix the rear bumper cover. The new exhaust gets hot, and it almost melted the olastic cover, enough for it to come loose at the clued / pressed in metal bits that screw on to the bracket on the bumper. Used some strong two component clue to clue it back on, the new clips, well, the bumper cover doesn't really snap into those. We'll see if it holds, wouldn't be the first one I loose somewhere!
Also studied the workshop manual. No mention of full harness replacements, but stripping the interior down enough to get access seems easy enough. Already all of that twice, with the exception of the top dashboard and instruments. Comes next once the carpets are all in, and the interior doesn't serve as a storage for assorted parts anymore!
Set the temps to HI, can you hear both motors move? Set both to LO and have another listen.Just got the AC recharged, still not blowing cold. Cool air, but not cold.
Maybe the compressor or the blend motor/distribution flap is bad.
Got any tips?
But you'd have a fault warning on the hevac for blend flap
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Have I not done enough damage already
Is the AC clutch engaging ?Just got the AC recharged, still not blowing cold. Cool air, but not cold.
Maybe the compressor or the blend motor/distribution flap is bad.
Got any tips?
This might trigger the book symbol though.But you'd have a fault warning on the hevac for blend flap
Failing that, disconnecting the battery will force hvac to do a full test cycle and relearn
Well i made progress on my suspension rattle. When i replaced the arb drop link, the "special washer" was missing, so i didn't use one. It was fine for a while but i think it started to rattle - just fitted a washer and the rattle has gone...
Well.. 90% gone. It's only on the biggest potholes now. I'm not sure what's left to replace. The tie rod seems tight enough. If i have on the arb, it flexes, but no knocks or rattles
Well.. 90% gone. It's only on the biggest potholes now. I'm not sure what's left to replace. The tie rod seems tight enough. If i have on the arb, it flexes, but no knocks or rattles
Check the tightness, a lot of the big Landy stuff needs to vain popping tight. Especially on the multi link stuff
I did everything to the proper tightness apart from the 2 ball joints on the hub but thought they were "tight enough"Check the tightness, a lot of the big Landy stuff needs to vain popping tight. Especially on the multi link stuff
I did reuse a bolt for the arm>chassis on one of the arms because i forgot to buy a new one
