Well that went well..... everything checked and torqued to the manual, .... its absolutely horrific now, loads of failed 3rd to 4th changes, slam into 6th, sometimes wont come out of 6th.
I don't actually even want to drive it more then the 40miles i have,
E60 drove faultless and still does with the RR valve body in it,

Think its time to either send it too someone or just buy a new motor 🤣 I can't be bothered to pull the box out myself and spend lots of money, when i could just spend a bit more lots of money and just jump in and drive it again 😅
 
stuu said:
Well that went well..... everything checked and torqued to the manual, .... its absolutely horrific now, loads of failed 3rd to 4th changes, slam into 6th, sometimes wont come out of 6th.
I don't actually even want to drive it more then the 40miles i have,
E60 drove faultless and still does with the RR valve body in it,

Think its time to either send it too someone or just buy a new motor 🤣 I can't be bothered to pull the box out myself and spend lots of money, when i could just spend a bit more lots of money and just jump in and drive it again 😅
Click to expand...

Worth talking to @Bemble ?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Started reassembling Slooby's former Rangie. Just cannot get the FIP adjustment right. Swapped for the FIP on my scrapper thinking maybe the Woodroffe key was worn but same sh1t. Get it bang on, rotate 360 and the b*st*rd has moved. I think maybe the keyway on the sprocket has some play or maybe the chains are stretched too much? Gave up as light was failing and I'll have a look another day.
Click to expand...
Using the DTI method, that is what happens.
 
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Datatek said:
Using the DYI method, that is what happens.
Click to expand...

Bit odd. No issues with my car or my scrapper but Slooby's was messing with my head yesterday. I wish I could pun down what is different about it. Cannot be the FIP itself as I swapped them over.

I'll see if it runs after I have finished swapping some other bits over and if needs be with use the Nanocom method.
 
Even better, put my old valve body in, now the gearbox has locked up everything checked, even my old pan back on old bridge square thing everything as it drove here yesterday,
Checked the airline in the clutch e tube no blowby or escaping air, forwards is like its being left foot braked. Reverse is like its being left foot braked, neutral it threatens to creep forward,

Yet the 530d i took everything out of i swapped it all back and just buzz gunned everything up , all same part number same separator ect works again and worked with my valvebody,
 
Last edited:
Well pan and valve body off again, something disintegrated
Snapchat-2127909897.jpg
 
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Deposit on another one from someone i know, another silver 4.2 supercharged, 107k full history, if thats the better shell il use all my bumpers and lights and get my plate transferred over somehow (34year old and don't know anything about private plates 🤣)
If mines the better shell then il pull the engine and box out of both as one unit and fit everything as one,
I know neither shells got scabby rear door inners or sills so one way or another il make one good out the two
 
stuu said:
Deposit on another one from someone i know, another silver 4.2 supercharged, 107k full history, if thats the better shell il use all my bumpers and lights and get my plate transferred over somehow (34year old and don't know anything about private plates 🤣)
If mines the better shell then il pull the engine and box out of both as one unit and fit everything as one,
I know neither shells got scabby rear door inners or sills so one way or another il make one good out the two
Click to expand...

Only thing I know about private plates is that you cannot make a car look younger than it is, for example putting a 51 plate on a '95 N plate. You can of course put a '95 N plate on a 2001 car.

I think transferring the plate is simple enough but might have a transaction charge.
 
Got it recovered back too mine, now just to plan a trip too windsor and get the new one up the road and decide which one im keeping,
Snapchat-1942999868.jpg
 
New rear propshaft fitted. All the needle bearings in the uj had disintegrated and fell out, some interesting noises driving along there.

Need to find a replacement spider assembly now to keep it as a spare shaft.
 
Emptied the interior yesterday and today, isolated the transmission tunnel, got the rear carpets in, the transmission tunnel carpet as well. Reinstalled the drawers in the back. Plugged two holes, one in the driver foot well and one in the roof. Put all the parts and stuff in the car.

Found, maybe, a source for the replacement wiring harnesses. Almost decent work, considering I can only do so much with the harnesses.

Getting the dents out of the roof next, after finishing , finally, with the carpets. And prepare the new oil cooler.

It is good to have her back so, even if she doesn't really drive.

Oh, and I made coffee using the camping stove in car for me wife and myself. Actuall, the highlight so far!
 
To say I'm forked off is an understatement. I bought another half shaft to replace the one where the rubber boot failed after 2 weeks.
Just fitted and the inner rubber boot is junk. It collapses in on itself when i do up the hub nut up. The hub is in the right place, the boot is either badly made or too short.
 
kermit_rr said:
To say I'm forked off is an understatement. I bought another half shaft to replace the one where the rubber boot failed after 2 weeks.
Just fitted and the inner rubber boot is junk. It collapses in on itself when i do up the hub nut up. The hub is in the right place, the boot is either badly made or too short.
Click to expand...
It's normally because the boots is out of its natural position. Flat🫵👍
 
kermit_rr said:
To say I'm forked off is an understatement. I bought another half shaft to replace the one where the rubber boot failed after 2 weeks.
Just fitted and the inner rubber boot is junk. It collapses in on itself when i do up the hub nut up. The hub is in the right place, the boot is either badly made or too short.
Click to expand...
You have to replace the shaft and not just the boot? If that is the case, it's madness or some would say progress.
 
My l add to my little bottomless money pit? Booked in with my local indie garage for new brake pads and front suspension arms etc, the usual clapped=out at over 140,000 miles syndrome. It also needs 2 rear caliper replacing, in is so badly siezed it won't move at all, and the nsf tyre has a huge carbuncle on the inside!! bit of luck really as my commute to work over the weekend was also the M20 at 70 <ahem> mph! Best part of £1800 there! Luckily I'm vat registered.. It's still a nice car, maybe it'll get better fuel consumption. It's done 29.8 mpg over the wekend.
 
Datatek said:
You have to replace the shaft and not just the boot? If that is the case, it's madness or some would say progress.
Click to expand...
I thought it was just easier and quicker than trying to replace a boot, plus i don't know if it's had any grit in it etc
 
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