At wits end

Hellllllp:doh:

2002 - 2004 TD4 Freelander 3Door before the new 2004.

So far I have replaced
1) 2 injectors
2) 2 fuel pumps and filter
3) swapped out the MAF
4) Done the injector bypass test
5) Blanked off the EGR
6) Replaced propshaft with VCU 3 times
7) Replaced diff three times the second one disintegrated at 120KPH left me stranded 200kms from home on a Friday night.
8) Put new tyres on it
9) Disconnected the MAF and reconnected it.

My problem has evolved!
1) Initially the 70MPH would not rev over 4K (Injectors, pumps, MAF)
2) Then the smoke and hard start (EGR)
3) Then the shudder on pull away (disconnected the MAF) and reconnected it.
4) After a day the car suddenly felt almost right! I had power from 1.5 RPM instead of 2.5. Yahooooo. But noticed that the engine still takes too long to rev up when flooring it in neutral.
5) F%&^#$&#@*$&$*^$&%&^KKKK last night in the traffic under idle it suddenly started to misfire!.......
6)Now I have an eratic idle between0.95 and 0.97 and it cuts out under idle sometimes. This is usually when hot.

All of the above between August this year, when I made the awfull mistake of selling my discoV8 that I could not aford to drive as its fuel eco was up too and it had some serious amigo problems for this heap of s^&t, and now!


PLEASE help I am at my wits end.

I originally posted this under sluggish but got no response.

Let me try and describe my current symptoms clearly
1) Slow to rev up
2) Shudder on pull away especially uphill but not as bad as it was before I disconnected the MAF and reconnected it and it mysteriously felt better the next day.
3) Fuel consumption is not up to scratch 12Kms per litre
4) I smell unburnt diesel in the cab every so often?
5) I suspect the power is not what it should be.
6) Now the erratic idle sometimes causing the car to cut out in the traffic when moving along at idle speed.

Is there a bof out there that can help.

I don't understand why you disconnect and reconnect the Maf?

Have you driven it with the Maf disconnected and if so was it then driving normally?

Hi Chaser

The car had bad pull away characteristics clutch shuder and slow pull away. Only felt powerfull after 2.5k Rpm
I read the links and decided to test with MAF disconnected
I could not notice a vast improvement with it on or off so reconected it.
The next day 3rd trip after this the car suddenly started pulling much better below 2K RPM and the shudder was noticibally better. However it was not 100% and the shudder was still there but lots better. Then it started to idle erratically a week later two nights ago.
This morning it is back to low power under 2500 RPM.

I reved the living Sh*T out of it and I think it felt better after that. It would seem as if the fact that I am revving the motor has an impact on its performance thereafter. Something blocked?.

The other syptoms are hard start and unburnt diesel smell in the cab.

I get about 29 Miles to the gallon with a light foot.

Rail pressure sensor

Where is Wits End? Is it near the sea?

Don't these engines have problems with the EGR throwing tar into the air tracts? Is the induction manifold gummed up?

Phoebus said:

decided to test with MAF disconnected
I could not notice a vast improvement with it on or off so reconected it.

Click to expand...

Does that suggest the MAF is faulty? Have you tried the fault finding pages on Tuning-diesels for cheaper diesel tuning.

Cheers

Blippie

Hi All

It is back to normal. ****!
I live inland at 5100ft in Pretoria South Africa.

AND Ive noticed another symptom. It is much louder under power than when it was running smoothley before it almost sounds like pinging on a petrol motor. This is not a new symptom just a realisation of an old one.

Hope that makes sense.

Hi no the tracts are not gummed up and I have tried RR advice.

It is clearly overfueling, you should get it on a diagnostics that can read live data and check all sensor outputs.

Also as you haven't mentioned it in your list, it's a good idea to change the vent filter for the boost control solenoid which hangs down on a pipe behind the maf and the crankcase breather filter.

and check yer three inlet turbo rubbers any small nick can kick up a problem make sure all jublies are tight and no rubbers have sucked in. . . .easy job easy check

Thank you all for the advice.

The air vent filter is OK. I had it back at an Agent on Friday. Boost control valve came up and a quick replacement. And with a wave and farewell from the agent "Problem solved".

But alas it was not! There was no change. I wonder if the solenoid could be sticky?

At low RPM is:- the turbo at full boost or low boos? and Is the solenoid actuated or not by the vacume valve? I cannot find this sytem description on the RAVE CD.

If the boost control solenoid was faulty you would lose power at high rpm because too much of the exhaust gas is directed at the turbine which chokes the engine at around 70mph. As i understand it you don't have a problem at high rpm.

Did you have some live data read while driving the car? It would tell you if there was any boost by reading the output from the MAP sensor. (which could be faulty) Boost should normally begin to increase from about 1750-1800rpm. Did the garage check if the turbo actuator rod is free to move as it should? You should be able to see it move when you rev the engine if you look under the right front wheelarch.
Somehow i doubt this is where the problem is.

Did you check the connection and wiring to the fuel pressure sensor?

----------------------------------------
See LR tech service bulletin LTB00052:
Summary:
A customer may report a concern of engine hesitation, poor performance, poor engine idle or poor starting.
Cause: Investigation using diagnostic equipment points to the fuel pressure sensor, which when renewed can rectify the problem. However, the root cause of this issue is likely to be corroded connections in the fuel pressure sensor harness connector and renewing the sensor alone may not permanently repair the problem.
Action: Should a customer express concern regarding the above and diagnosis indicates the fuel pressure sensor to be the cause, refer to the Service Procedure detailed in this bulletin to renew the sensor and harness connector.
Parts Required:
Description Part Number Quantity
Harness repair kit YMQ503320 1
Fuel pressure sensor STC4768 1
O-Ring MYX000040 1
--------------------------------------------------
"But noticed that the engine still takes too long to rev up when flooring it in neutral."
This is a symptom of underfuelling. (most often it's the Maf, but apparently not in your case)

"It is much louder under power than when it was running smoothly before it almost sounds like pinging on a petrol motor".
The opposite applies here, this is a symptom of overfuelling.

So this could point to a faulty fuel pressure sensor or its wiring BUT according to the bulletin it should have shown up on the dealers diagnostics so it's your call.
Hate to say it but with every thing you have thrown at this motor it would have been better to have it on the Dealers diagnostics at day one.

Hi Chaser

Thank you for the advice.

It has been on the dealer diagnostics at least three times
1) Indicated a MAF sensor as the problem. Put three different ones on and the fault stayed.
2) Indicated boost and replaced the boost modulator a few times.
3) Showed turbo and boost actuator/modulator.

I did check the connections on the fuel presure sensor but no luck. Most of the replacements have been done by the dealer.

Regards

In that case I'm at a loss as to what to advise. Of course the diagnostics is only as good or as useless as the mechanic using it and if they don't know how to interpret and investigate the results of their tests then they just throw new parts on. (or that's what seems to happen all too often at main dealers)

I would have thought that their T4 diagnostics being able to read more data than your average system would have given the best indication of fuelling etc. when the power loss occurs.

It's impossible to be of any help, we can't rely 100% the work done and so would be covering old ground. They're obviously missing something and a fresh assessment could result in an instant fix.
Is there anywhere else you can take it to be checked out?

UPDATE

OK it has been back to the dealer since Monday.

They have replaced the MAF and presure rail sensors again. The fuel pressures check out right, it was suspect as the fuel pumps had been changed. They now diagnose 3 and 4 injectors as leaky. and guess what, the TURBO!

No I can't send it elsewhere as this is all still for their cost. Well I will not get it back by this afternoon.

AND this weekend the clutch has finaly given in, it is starting to slip when cold.

I have had the use of this vehicle for about three weeks in the last three months.

I realise that no one can help further at this stage and we will just have to wait till I get it back. Still in the same condition no doubt.

I will keep you posted and once again thank you for the help.

dont knock it - if its at their expense - its costing them an arm and a leg - and yu are getting lots of new bits

there are a few freelander owners that would love to have all the bits paid for.

UPDATE

I got the car back yesterday!
They replaced the Turbo and another two injectors and the clutcha and flyweheel.

Guess what

Most of the problems erratic idleing etc are gone but.......

Still no low end power on pull away. Unplug the MAF and the car rev's better, put a new MAF in and back the same symptom.

HOWEVER a clue... When cold in the mornings it pulls well but as the day heats up the power is lost and do not try to use the aircon then it is dead.

HELP

Do you still have the EGR valve fitted? If so is it definitely closed/sealing.

This one is getting weirder by the minute. I'm wondering, it sounds like fuel starvation, are those fuel pumps running okay? We know they are known to go weak. Is it loosing high end fuel pressure. I'm sure this should show up on the Diags but may be if the pumps are struggling then it might not.

Just a thought. I hope you get it fixed.