Discovery 1 MAF 14 CUX

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Hey Allan,

Thank you very for the information shared it was very helpful really appreciated.

I have done the test and following are the results.

Mean time I have ordered the cable for the USB FDTI cable for the Rover gauge, will be working on that soon.

Reading from MAF,

Red/Black - ground
Blue/Green - air flow signal

Reading ignition on - 0.22 to 0.24
Idle cold 1.65 to 1.67
Idle hot - 1.58 to 1.62

Idle CO mixture adjustment
Red/Black
Blue/Red
Idle 1.87

As you mentioned the CO adjustment on the MAF, this adjustment is sealed and unable to access the adjustment screw. Is there a way to open this or some comes sealed ?

Also I have black smoke issue, if I press the throttle full I see thick black smoke.

Appreciate your input…🙏
Hi, few more readings from MAF which I missed in the last post,

Idle CO mixture adjustment
Red/Black
Blue/Red
Idle or with ignition on the reading is same 1.87

Also reading from air flow signal, as switch on the ignition its shoots to 0.64 and settles back to 0.24, does this means that the MAF is bad ?

Yes by factory it’s without catalytic.

I have to fix the black smoke issue as MOT test is scheduled for next week.
 
As long as the 0.64 drops pretty quick, it might be OK. Settling to .24 may depend on the quality of your meter and leads - that IS fairly close to 0.30 to 0.34 though.

The Coolant temp sensor for the ECU is the one with the square "timer" plug on it, kind of behind the distributor near the thermostat.. Not the round single pin (gauge), nor the big one with two spade teminals (cooling fan). If you unplug the "timer" plug and measure the resistance of the sensor, then heat up the engine and measure the resistance, it should change with the temp (I can't recall the expected readings, but Uncle Google should know). The resitance should decrease as the engine heats up. something like 2K ohms "cold" to a few hundred ohms "hot".

Again, Rovergauge would tell you exactly what the ECU sees there, too (I really like Rovergauge 🤣 )

It runs it very rich on initial cold start, so maybe check that as they are a some-what common failure item. If its dead, or the wiring in faulty, it tries to run it like a cold engine the whole time.
 
As long as the 0.64 drops pretty quick, it might be OK. Settling to .24 may depend on the quality of your meter and leads - that IS fairly close to 0.30 to 0.34 though.

The Coolant temp sensor for the ECU is the one with the square "timer" plug on it, kind of behind the distributor near the thermostat.. Not the round single pin (gauge), nor the big one with two spade teminals (cooling fan). If you unplug the "timer" plug and measure the resistance of the sensor, then heat up the engine and measure the resistance, it should change with the temp (I can't recall the expected readings, but Uncle Google should know). The resitance should decrease as the engine heats up. something like 2K ohms "cold" to a few hundred ohms "hot".

Again, Rovergauge would tell you exactly what the ECU sees there, too (I really like Rovergauge 🤣 )

It runs it very rich on initial cold start, so maybe check that as they are a some-what common failure item. If its dead, or the wiring in faulty, it tries to run it like a cold engine the whole time.
Cool. Will check that this evening when I back home. Will update soon.
 
Btw, I have already ordered the USB cable for the rover gauge. Is it a must to install the 400 ohms resistor on the cable to get it work ?
 
Yes - you need the resistor, but people have used the more common 390 Ohm without trouble, I beleive.

Being a proper nerd, I ordered specific 400 Ohm resistors though 🤓
 
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