Paint Job

I would like to repaint my landrover.

Whats is the best way of doing it but keeping costs to a minimum??

i have heard lots of ways i.e. painting it on with a paint brush????? does that really come out well???

Cheers,

Scott.

Well it depends on a few factors; how do you want it to look, how much time can you/will you spend.

Defenders need to use a paint capable of standing up to the increased flexing found in Aluminium, the paint found on a Defender is special to withstand these attributes.

Idealy respraying would be the best, but having looked into geting my 90 Hard Top resprayed and being quoted £600 I will try some bits myself.

I have started to tackle the issue myself, I took some steel wool to the steel runner that goes along the back above the side panels, cleaned it all up, masked it off and gave it a coat of white undercoat paint, which I am just going to leave untill the spring. But in the meantime it will keep the metal covered and looks ok, just a really clean part (my 90 is white)!

I am then going to look into getting paint, remove doors, and then tackle the panels as best I can. Pretty much with with a whole lot of steel wool, sand paper, undercoat and hopefully a friends sprayer, however cans would work too.

If you are going to hand paint it, use a behind the radiator type roller, the small non fluffy type, it will let the paint go on with no brush marks, and should look very smooth.

Lets face it the MOD do that all the time... What paint to use I am not sure, Hammerite satin? You don't want gloss it would look awfull on the bits it didn't go on quite right.

Hi,

Cheers for the info,

I am thinking that i will peobably hand paint it. However will lookinto all options before i jusp into anything.

Cheers again,

Scott.

Im looking into hand painting the landrover, does anyone have any ideas where i can get Hammerite satin paint from that is a good cost.

Cheers,

Scott.

I don't know whether it's the slightest bit of help at all but I'm thinking of hand painting my series 3 and I notice you can get MOD paint on ebay.

Odds

has anyone got pictures of hand painted defenders or series'? both good and bad

heres mine brush painted in nato camo, best bit is if it gets scratched you just go back over it

hi, im also thinking of repainting my defender. Im thinking of using a compressor and sray gun. Has anyone got any tips? also, will i need to remove the old paint first? thanks

If you're looking for Hammerite satin finish you might as well just go to a local automotive paint supplier (Such as Apec) and get satin finish synthetic paint, it'll be just as good and a lot cheaper than a branded retail type.

discomania said:

Well it depends on a few factors; how do you want it to look, how much time can you/will you spend.

Defenders need to use a paint capable of standing up to the increased flexing found in Aluminium, the paint found on a Defender is special to withstand these attributes.

Idealy respraying would be the best, but having looked into geting my 90 Hard Top resprayed and being quoted £600 I will try some bits myself.

I have started to tackle the issue myself, I took some steel wool to the steel runner that goes along the back above the side panels, cleaned it all up, masked it off and gave it a coat of white undercoat paint, which I am just going to leave untill the spring. But in the meantime it will keep the metal covered and looks ok, just a really clean part (my 90 is white)!

I am then going to look into getting paint, remove doors, and then tackle the panels as best I can. Pretty much with with a whole lot of steel wool, sand paper, undercoat and hopefully a friends sprayer, however cans would work too.

If you are going to hand paint it, use a behind the radiator type roller, the small non fluffy type, it will let the paint go on with no brush marks, and should look very smooth.

Lets face it the MOD do that all the time... What paint to use I am not sure, Hammerite satin? You don't want gloss it would look awfull on the bits it didn't go on quite right.

Click to expand...

When ah did mine ah was told not to use steel wool or wire brushes on the aluminium as they could react or summit so just used plenty diffrunt grades of wet'n'dry.
Remember that if ye rub through to the metal then ye have to use an etch primer on aluminium

im planning on brush painting/rollering mine when sun comes out, i ordered grey oxide primer off ebay and synthetic paint from Car Paint from AutoPaint St Helens (Powered by CubeCart) ive tested these paints on part of my lanny and its come out really well, would highly recommend auto paint.

I`m thinking about throwing a tin of Hammerite dark green hammer finish over my 110 . It might look crap but it should travel further and keep in a straight line .
Why do golf balls have all them dimples .

karamac said:

I`m thinking about throwing a tin of Hammerite dark green hammer finish over my 110 . It might look crap but it should travel further and keep in a straight line .
Why do golf balls have all them dimples .

Click to expand...

So blind people dont mistake them for glass eyes.

I repainted my landy this summer, they previous owner had done a **** poor job and hadn't lacquered it in time and the paint went off and consequently didnt have a good key so it all peeled off.

After a little research and no prior experience i borrowed a compressor from a mate, bought a £20 spray gun and went to a diy store and bought Rustoleum metal primer, top coat, some white spirit and a variety of sand paper.

Removed all the checkplate and fittings i wanted to keep clean annd went over the whole lot with a electric sander 100grit then 240grit. You dont need to take it back to bare metal infact its easier if you dont just remove all rust/aluminum oxide and flaking paint. Wack on some primer (doenst need to be perfect just needs to be decent coverage, i used grey and a bit of black when i ran out) let it dry for 24hours.

Inspect all the surfaces if you can remove any drips etc just use some 800 paper same for dust/ flys etc the undercoat doesnt have to be completly smooth but if you remove large imperfections you will get a better finish.

Choose your prefered rustoleom paint, this stuff it magic, its an enamel based single pack paint (ie no harnder required) and is used for argicultural machinary (hence all the tractor colours) its a little bit elastic so doesnt split when pannels warp/dent. Its cheap as chips and it self levels (to a degree)

Mix it with white spirit (do not shake, stir or you will get air bubbles) to a consitancy like single cream, its more guesswork than science everyone has their own prefered consitancy for spraying. Spray a coat, leave to dry for an hour spray another, leave 1hr spray another leave for 24, flat down with a 800 paper. Another 3 coats, flat with 1000, another 3 1500 another 3 and you should be done, leave to dry for a decent amount of time finsh off with the highest grade paper you can get (halfords do some 2000 i think) compound it and then wack a few layers of polish on.

The whole thing from start to finish took me a week in my front garden no special equipment needed whole lot cost me no more than £100-150 i have to admit having never done it before i was a bit worred but the beauty is if you do it wrong stick an electric sander over it and start again!!

Here is the result (photo taken after 6months on a dull day if its sunny the think look fantastic!)

Painted mine with some Military Vehicle Paint I got of ebay

Sanded it down with my DA sander using some 240 grit

Used some etch primer on the bits I had gon to bare metal getting rid of the corrosion.

Then painted her using a 4' foam roller!

The pics are half way through and the finished paint job, the finish came out pretty good, I wasn’t to worried about it being to bling as I use her for off road but it tidied her up nicely.

Been done 18 months now and aint fell of so cant be to bad!

having quite alot of experience in paint(had a spray shop!) i could go on forever about how to do it etc......im sure if you put the keywords into youtube someone on there would have posted a video or few on how to spray.....but,and i cant say this loud enough........THE END RESULT WILL ONLY BE AS GOOD AS THE PREPERATION!!!!!!!!!!

Spend your time flatting/priming/preparing the vehicle and the final few microns of paint should look fantastic.....then laquer and flat a few clear coats over the top if choosing mettallics,,,,,,,,,,if your going down the solid colour route then same applies though give it slightly heavier coats and cut back for a shine if needed
Use an etch primer...dont even consider non anti bloom thinners in this weather......and get out there and have a go!

oh...and if your wanting to go green laning/want a tougher paint then ask your paint suppliers about commercial paint...as in 'truck paint' as these days it comes in most colours and is a bit(alot!)more resistant to scratches when you meet the old hawthorn hedges

ive just re read these threads and there seems to be some concern about the panels on landrovers flexing and all kinds of enamel based paints etc.....i dare say emulsion from B&Q will make an appearence sooner or later......well if paint bending is a concern(cant say it should be except for the plastic eyebrow arches on defender models) then add some'plasticiser'...all car paint suppliers will have it in stock,....problem sorted

Thought this may come in handy for some.

Damien

Hi All,

I know I'm reviving an old thread but also need some painting advice. Well, I've already done all the painting of my Series 3 109 pickup. I painted everything indoors with the exception of the load bin as it was too big to get into my workshop .I used a cellulose laquer based paint (due to 2K health concerns) and put 3 coats on all panels, and 4 on the bin (in an attempt to improve the look of the final coat).
The problem I have now is that the bin has an almost sandy finish. It’s very fine but definitely not as smooth to the touch and with less shine than the other panels. I think this is because I painted on a very warm day (+-27 deg C) which is normal here in Durban, South Africa. From what I gather from research this means that the paint dried too quickly and did not get a chance to run to a gloss finish. I’m not after a showroom finish by any means and just want all the panels to look the same. What is the best way to try get the bin to look like the rest of the panels. From what I gather my options are:
1 – Wet sand the bin and respray a final coat in cooler conditions.
2 – Wet sand the bin using a 1200 or 1500 grit paper.
3 – Use a fine rubbing compound and an orbital polisher.
I re-iterate, I’m not after a showroom, totally smooth deep gloss finish. Just want it all to look the same. I’ve seen many posts on how to cut and polish paint on painting forums but those all seem to be to get perfection.

Thanks,
Jason