P38 Range Rover Cold Start Problem

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P38Al

Member
Posts
84
Location
North East Wales
My P38 BMW engine Range Rover has changed in the last couple of days , from starting immediately when cold to having to crank for ages after the glow plug light extinguishes before finally starting. I thought it would be a good idea to change the glow plugs so spent a couple of hours removing the inlet manifold, fitting the plugs and re-assembling. I tested the old plugs and found just one was faulty.

The result is it's no better than before and still takes ages to start. I fitted a voltmeter across the battery and another to no6 glow plug as it's the only one you can see easily. With the ignition and glow plug light on the battery showed 12 volts but the glow plug was showing just 10 volts. I tried the same test again by connecting the meter to No5 glow plug and found it was just showing 10 volts too.

Any ideas?
 
might be worth checking conections on glow plug relay which is in the black box directly behind the battery
 
Doesn't sound like your glow plugs to me. Sounds more like you have got fuel running back. Before you start it in the morning lift the bonnet, look at the white clear plastic pipe from the filter to the pump. Get "her indoors" to turn the ignition on and have a look to see if the pipe has got air bubbles in it or if you see it fill back up with fuel. If either of those two happen, start looking at the leak off pipes on the top of the injectors and following it back to the pump. If they are damp, it's more than likely to be them. Also check for dampness around no. 4 injector, this has electric wires going into it and it tends to leak around there. Good luck
 
Thats exactly what i have, from starting instantly to winding me and it up for what seemd like ages, did the above and watched bubbles go all over the place, i now turn on the ignition and let the light go out, then turn it off again, then on again and leave for five seconds, starts every time. I intent to investigate it this weekend.
 
Hi guys, thanks for the ideas, I'm going to check for fuel leaks tomorrow. If anyone has a volt meter could they please tell me what voltage they see on the glow plug terminals (5 and 6 are the easiest to get at), and what voltage they have at the battery when the ignition and glow plug light is on. Thanks again.
 
Mine did the same a few weeks ago! ......... Changed the leak off pipes (half hour and about £3) and it is now fine.

Lenb
 
Almost anywhere, I got mine from a local "parts" garage ....... they are not specific for RR's. You can buy it by the metre.

Lenb
 
Could someone post a few pics maybe of a duff pipe and a new one? Maybe where and how to fit would be good too.?
 
Having replaced them on my car, the difference is tremendous, from an embarassingly long time cranking to starting almost immediately. DOn't worry about inspecting them, just change them if you haven't already done so. My car as a 2001 model low mileage and mine were shot.
Remove the central engine cover, the one that runs front to rear across the top of the motor, by taking out the three allen screws. Slide the cover out forward towards you. You can the clearly see the injectors and will notice that they have rubber pipes, covered in a woven fabric, linking one injector to the next each in turn with the front most one going back down to the injection pump. These are a push fit but will have gone hard, a pair of long nose pliers will be usefull to pull the pipes off ( and to retrieve the bit of pipe left behind as they will all break when removed) Mine had been weeping a small amount of diesel as the fabric covering was oily on some of them. To replace them simply push on the new ones untill the pipe is all the way down to the bottom against the injector body. Now be prepared to be amazed how easily the car will start!!
I'm not sure if the problem is air getting into the system or if it is simply allowing the diesel to syphon back from the pump, but it really made a huge difference to my car.
Unless your car starts almost instantly with no cranking (click,broom) then change your pipes.
My car is just six years old and these pipes were in a terrible state, they had gone hard and they were splitting so I plan to replace mine now every couple of years at a coinciding main service.
I hope this helps.
 
It is approx. 30 minutes to do the whole job. Remove the top covers (3 x allen bolts on top) and slide out. Hardest bit is getting the old pipes off. They go hard but a stanley type knife will do the job of slicing down the sides. MIND YOUR FINGERS! Long nose pliers are also a must. I did the fron to interconnecting pipes and the difference is amazing. Saved a quoted circa £1000!
 
Got a problem with my range rover p38 ,
The problem is when i start it up the engine run ok,but when i turn the engine off and try and start it again it won't start and you can smell a petrol flooding the engine.
Leave it for about 45 minture and it wll start up again.
Can someone help me with this problem please ?
 
Hi There,

I'm new to the world of the P38 (be gentle) having aquired one over the weekend, it has exactly this problem and I can see quite clearly air bubbles in the clear pipe leading from the fuel filter to the engine. If I go ahead and replace these 'leak off' pipes will I need to bleed the system as at the moment once the engine fires I can watch the bubbles go throught the clear pipe as it ticks over, or will they just dissappear? Also where can I get these replacement pipes from??

Thanks for any help
 
No need to bleed the system, just fire it up once you've changed the leak off pipes.

You can buy them from your local motor factors - my local General Traffic charges around £3.50 per metre. I usually buy 2m when I'm changing them, as I find 1m is a little tight to link all 6 injectors and the fuel pump.

Give that a try first, it's quick and cheap, and the first place to look.
 
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