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If the engine light has lit once, there should be a code stored to read. This will direct you better than changing parts randomly.

Thing with code, its never on when I get her home. Light goes out and is intermittent. Proper Diag Kit , that has worked before for my landys. If I could get the light to stay one, but will also check the flows when I am testing again.

Thanks all. Going to start with Filter and LP Fuel pump. If that doesn't work, I will look at the turbo hoses for leaks, After that a gallon of petrol and a box of swan vesta I think :(

Im not sure on the seal in the axle. I know the rear axle doesn't have any seals as its a Salisbury, the front might still have them, but as with most rubber things after 37 years, they might not be the best! I get that gear oil is far from the...

Yes but what if you'd been drinking never thinking you'd get stuck with the errand?? I'd be getting out the BBQ and saying, "And what are you all eating then?!"

I’m in a Td5 110

Hi guys, I’m having real problems with what I think is probably injector problems. I’m on holiday in France between Reims and Laon. Anybody know of any landrover friendly garages near? Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers

Also check the wires inside the MAF connector. They are rather close to the EAS pipes on GEMS, so could have an intermittent connection.

I think the MAF is the culprit, when going slow on a roundabout or junction the rpm is in the region of 700ish the MAF reading goes up and down from 25kg and when the car starts to “hunt” it goes down as far as 0 for a second or so. As soon as it...

Just a quick add on to this thread I came across while googling same problem, (2009 F/L, steering locked, clicking from footwell). I spotted the suggestion of removing cover from underside of column and tapping lock module with a hammer. Tap on...

Sorry for late reply. Really at a loss with it, seems one thing after another now. Decided to have the sensor replaced and it drove better. Since coolant hose replaced it seems to be not leaking but, temp still going up to half with no warning...

There is a seal to stop the oil coming into the hub. Removing it allows the diff oil to lubricate the bearings, (wet bearings) which is not a bad thing. Next time I take my rear stub axles off I think I will remove the seals so that the bearings...

Knock taper pin out of door stay. Remove 2 x circlips. Unplug wiring behind foot kick panel. Lift off door in fully open position. It is a bit heavy !!!

Hi mate, along as the two joints are nice and tight I always think when it cools it pulls them tighter. Also access to seam weld along top of your cill would also burn off paint for sure many of the joints are only accessible from the outside...

Ok so back story, I knew there was pressure building up in the front axle from when I changed the diff oil but kinda ignored it... Some time later I was changing the wheels over and noticed some play in one of the wheels. Suspecting a bearing I...

4 pin only goes with 23 spline axles, I still have 10 spline ones. Switching over is not cheap. I did think about getting an ARB locker for the front diff, so far that is out of the budget. Plus, those need a compressor. A pitty the front true...

My wife's Ford Kuga has an oddity with the lights. With the car running and the lights on if I push the start/stop button the engine keeps running until I turn off the lights then the engine turns off too. It's been like that since we bought it 4...

Hi All, Didn't want to start a new thread having found this one, as similar question really. My side steps are rotting out on D4 - Need to ideally have steps for access requirements. Have found the below. Has anyone used/fitted these at all or...

12v supply from back of the cigarette lighter

Cuddle delivered, multiple times! 🤩

No, didn't solve that. Decided that this wholeix-matching is just a pain, and will result in a bunch of missing parts and parts I cannot use. Considered a pegged housing, new pinion and crown wheel, parts and a rebuild kit for bearings and such...

Do you have any photos / diagrams to explain this?

Assumed you’d already tried the normal regen route as your first post mentioned doing 50-60 for an hour, which should have forced it.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=UTP1911

Hi my Heater on a 96 300Tdi has stopped working. Appears it needs a new motor but the BTR4318 is no longer made. Can anyone point me to an alternative motor?

Could be turbo. Check all the vaccum hoses, replace the turbo control solenoid. Made mine ALOT better, my symptoms not as severe as yours but I had the black smoke under heavy load, that's gone now.

Interesting and timely this; my friend had an issue with his this weekend where the compressor was overheating but his car wouldn't lower. It won't be the same for yours but we can use some of the same troubleshooting steps. I'm not sure how...

Two screws inside the cubby box, these will allow you remove the panel and go from there🤔

With 'no codes', are you sure the diagnostic equipment is correctly connecting to the LR protocol? There are few devices that read the LR correctly.

Also compare the old and new bushes. You could been supplied the wrong ones🤔