cornish rattler
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Wow what a transformation, just done a 90 mile round trip and the brakes are great, can't wait to do the rears not that it needs them but just for easy maintenance
YeahHi,
If i was looking to buy a classic,t&t exempt land rover like ours to drive for pleasure the brake upgrade would be a definate plus,the lack of servicing another,i am sure that you have increased the value by much more than the price of the parts,on mine the overall condition and location of the vehicle did not warrant the expense but for modern road use your system is what is needed,
atb
R
Ok where would be the cheapest place to get a set of 5 wheels and tires?No chance they'll fit standard rims. The caliper is in the same space as the wheel well.
Wolf, or modular.
Sure I need new tires as well so I will probably buy new just need to find some cheap enough. I will probably go for modulars as I prefer the look.Zues are very clear that STD wheels don't fit. Having recently changed from STD LWB rims to Wolfs I can see why. Its not the rim width its the shape of the wheel dish. The STD wheels are desinged to fit around a drum not clear a caliper. The Wolfs are much flatter. Your choice is modulars or Wolfs, modulars are much cheaper 2nd hand.
Thanks I’ve also found some cheap ones from Craddocks. Looking for 5 though as I’ll want a spare as I’m using it as a daily driver. I am waiting for responses as everyone is closed at the weekend.Just noticed this on the paddocks website, its cheaper than modulars:
(as a guide, I paid £420 for tyres and £140 for used rims which is £560 so this is a good deal)
https://www.paddockspares.com/235-8...writing-on-the-inside-clearance-set-of-4.html
The modulars dish away from the calliper so no issuesThanks I’ve also found some cheap ones from Craddocks. Looking for 5 though as I’ll want a spare as I’m using it as a daily driver. I am waiting for responses as everyone is closed at the weekend.
If you're unhappy with the doubtful rim choices, Zeus push on you, you're not alone. There's Heystee kits, these kits will take stock rims or even FC/One ton 569204/ 569203 if you've got those.
I'm fitted discs to mine, front and rear. On a 109 I used a Defender pedal-box/Servo with a proportioning valve by Wilwood. I'd think those of you 'lacking-length' will truly need the Wilwood. That missing 21" means, you've less to stop the up-end effect, and/or too much force will go rearward. An 88 is less stable and under braking, goes 'squirelly' quicker, thus you'll more to get spot-on. Either way, to get it 'right' you'll need to fine-tune, and that'll be where a Wilwood comes in. It doesn't need to be a Wilwood, that same valve seems to come up under various brands. If you've drums on the rear, it'd be wise to get a Residual Valve on the drums... no LR MC has one, and they should. Semi auto-adjusts without falling back to the snails which is good.
Thanks for the response, good to hear that the proportioning valve is needed for dual discs, I was on the fence about ordering one, do you think they are needed for drums in the rear or just dual disc conversions? Ive had them on cars before so familiar with operation and install.
Master Cylinder: Heystee list the BR 3225A(NRC9529A) or another forum mentioned BR 3235(NRC8690) both are for early defenders with drums and discs - which do you use for discs all round? Any suggestions for which model for disc/drum set up?
https://www.bearmach.com/product/wheel-cylinders-brbhbhwc/brake-master-cylinder-br-3225a/BR 3225A
or
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/master-cylinder-8391-ferodo-nrc8690g-p-25051.html
Residual Valves: Interesting what you say about Residual Valve’s
….
'spose, depends on how you like your filth? You've said it for 3-4 months, and convinced yourself... Tis' a slippery slope, the 'I-was-never-confused-hat' ( you know the one), umpteen jerry cans, and sink-estate snorkel are nextWheels/Heystee: I was originally a bit dubious about not having the series wheel rims any more but having had modulars on for the last 3 or 4 months I'm used to the look now.
Braided lines…
>>The rear must grab first, to keep you straight
This is dangerous advice.
Rear axle locking must be avoided at all costs - so, the braking on the rear axle must, even in the worst case conditions, be reduced to make sure that the front axle locks first.....
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