You won't believe your eyes win £££££££££££££££

SnowmanV8 said:

No idea! Just gutless uphill and with boot down! Shame as it is nice when running "normal" Does get worse when it does it while hot!


Right so just unplug one at a time and crank it into a pot, Mark and repeat?

Click to expand...

jamesmartin said:

no all at the same time pull rail off with injectors still secured ,once hot obviously as cold engines need extra fuel

Click to expand...

jamesmartin said:

either swap it for another or test fuel pressure at the rail after regulator ,fuel is governed by the amount of time injectors are open plus fuel pressure which isnt variable apart from regulator so too high a pressure would increase fueling

Click to expand...

classic kev said:

Have you checked the air flow meter? If the AFM is faulty the ecu will go in to limp mode and will cause the engine to run very rich. It is also possible that if the air flow meter is dead, the ecu is not getting the right air flow signal under load and so it is not looking at the right load site in the fuel map causing the issue you describe. It might also be a good idea to check the ecu by substituting it for a known good one, you could do the same with the air flow meter - do a swap with a known good one and see what happens. If you do a search you should find information about how to check your air flow meter.

Temp sensor can be checked/tested with a multimeter, all you need to do is measure resistance.

Agree with what others have said, temp sensor is a common cause of running rich, unlikely to be fuel pump or pressure regulator which would be more likely to cause fuel starvation.

Click to expand...

classic kev said:

Just one other quick thought on this. You say you're getting a loss or lack of power and exhaust smells rich. Do you also get a mis-fire?

I'm just wondering if you have an ignition fault in there. Check the condition of everything - dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads, coil, all connectors (make sure they are clean and tight) and lastly the ignition amplifier. If you decide to replace cap and arm make sure you use only genuine parts - please don't use pattern ignition parts. Check/set ignition timing.

If your ignition amp is on the side of the distributor and it is of any age it may well be that is the problem, they are known to misbehave when hot.

You might also want to think about maybe removing and cleaning the plenum and ram housing, might also be worth cleaning the flame trap and rocker breather as well.

HTH

Click to expand...

classic kev said:

Sounds most intriguing. IIRC you said something about a smell of petrol - have a careful check of the fuel lines. If you have got the original steel fuel pipes they may have rotted out and you actually have a leak. Have a good look from the fuel filter back to the tank, the pipes where they sit on top of the chassis rust, also remove the inspection cover in the boot floor and look at the connection to the fuel pump, the pipes rot here as well. HTH

Click to expand...

doz said:

Do you not have access to getting this plugged in? You really need to know what's going on from the live feeds. Can you not get access to ECUMate? It's a handy little box of tricks for the 14x set up.

Click to expand...

RRPhil said:

Have you checked the exhaust, sometimes baffles can collapse in a silencer restricting flow (same with CATs if fitted). Get someone to rev it up while you feel the gasses coming out the back, though not always easy to tell!!
You can also detach the exhaust after the CAT (or CATs) & try it up a hill. A bit noisy but it eliminates the blocked exhaust theory

Click to expand...

SnowmanV8 said:

I Did smack the center box on a rock it has a gnarly dent in it.

Click to expand...

RRPhil said:

Worth a try then, it doesn't cost anything. Unless you need a silencer of course

Click to expand...