Freelander 1 Yet another VCU thread

[Pete_TD4]

It's ok, my trolley-jack and axle stands look much like the ones above. The stands are 6-tonne.

If I need to turn the shafts to reach the nuts, I might leave the back end up on the stands, bring the jack round to the front and lift the wheels just off the ground, turn them, then put the front back down again. Obviously I'm not going underneath with one end just on a jack.

Pete

 

[GrumpyGel]

That's an interesting idea. I don't love going under a car on stands (and I usually leave the jack in position and lightly loaded, as backup) but I put up with it. I do have some concrete blocks (breeze-block size, but solid) which I could maybe drive up onto - how far does the car need to roll to turn the shaft over?

To turn the prop 1/2 a turn requires 1/2 divided by the diff ratio (of 3.2) times the diameter of the tyre (roughly 2m) - which is about 0.6 of a meter. In actual fact you only need to turn it about 1/2 of that because most of the bolts are accessible - its just the very top ones that need moving.

I do have a small 2-legged puller I originally got for pulling the propeller off a boat. Might work. Or failing that, hitting things is something I can do . But I'm using an exchange VCU from Bell's and have to send the old one back, so if I can't get the things off I suppose I'll just send the whole lot back .

I think I'd be tempted just to leave the things on. However - you probably won't get a damper on your recon unit, so you might want to hang on to your damper which means getting 1 of the supports off. It really makes no difference though running with or without a damper I believe. You might like to take advice from Bells on that. Not sure what others think on here.

I know most discussion on here is of them breaking loose when being driven. They're often just cut off with an angle grinder when that happens and the car is just as good without it.

 

[Madmustang]

To turn the prop 1/2 a turn requires 1/2 divided by the diff ratio (of 3.2) times the diameter of the tyre (roughly 2m) - which is about 0.6 of a meter. In actual fact you only need to turn it about 1/2 of that because most of the bolts are accessible - its just the very top ones that need moving.

I think I'd be tempted just to leave the things on. However - you probably won't get a damper on your recon unit, so you might want to hang on to your damper which means getting 1 of the supports off. It really makes no difference though running with or without a damper I believe. You might like to take advice from Bells on that. Not sure what others think on here.

I know most discussion on here is of them breaking loose when being driven. They're often just cut off with an angle grinder when that happens and the car is just as good without it.

Bells VCU comes with the Damper fitted

 

[Pete_TD4]

To turn the prop 1/2 a turn requires 1/2 divided by the diff ratio (of 3.2) times the diameter of the tyre (roughly 2m) - which is about 0.6 of a meter.

Ok - so I'd need to roll it forwards a foot or two to get at the other side of the shaft. I think that's a bit far for my concrete blocks, so I'll stick with the jack and stands.

Pete

 

[Nodge68]

Ok - so I'd need to roll it forwards a foot or two to get at the other side of the shaft. I think that's a bit far for my concrete blocks, so I'll stick with the jack and stands.

Pete

Lift one side, so rear and front wheels are off the ground. You can then turn the propshaft so you can get to all bolts. There are 4 on the rear diff and 6 onto the IRD. Also don't pull the on front shaft where it mates the IRD flange or you'll split the CV joint and damage it's boot. Tap it gently from the side while rotating the shaft until it pops off. I always lift the whole side clear of the floor, for the above reason.

 

[Pete_TD4]

Lift one side, so rear and front wheels are off the ground. You can then turn the propshaft so you can get to all bolts.

Hmm, cunning plan. Trolley jack under the middle of the "chassis" rail, I guess, lift it, then one axle stand at each end? I'd have to move the jack out of the way to get good working access, but maybe that frees it up to be a VCU support anyway.

Pete

 

[GrumpyGel]

Or just drive it up onto blocks! If you need to, put some more blocks in front of the ones you're on if they aren't long enough to push the car far enough to turn the prop. Safe, simple. Just sayin

I used pavers - 1 thick in front of 2 thick - drive onto the 1 thick, then 2 thick for more height. Put another couple in front of them to push it further.

 

[Nodge68]

Hmm, cunning plan. Trolley jack under the middle of the "chassis" rail, I guess, lift it, then one axle stand at each end? I'd have to move the jack out of the way to get good working access, but maybe that frees it up to be a VCU support anyway.

Pete

I use wooden blocks to support it. I jack the front up with the jack under the front central jacking point. I then lower it down onto a block under the front alloy suspension mount on the side I want up in the air. I then jack up the rear, again using the central jacking point. I place another block under the rear drag link bracket on the same side is the front block. This then keeps the whole side clear of the ground, so the wheels spin free.

 

[andyfreelandy]

My VCU refurb continues - tried solvent in the garage to see what works on the silicon gel. Only thing that touches it (and makes it loads thinner) to clean out is Acetone.

Joke was, chemist wouldn't sell me a large quantity as it 'is very dangerous Sir !' however, went to a Nail Polish Bar and bought a litre of the damn stuff off the shelf - used for silicon nail polish remover apparently !
So - flushing with acetone and regular twists with a bar - it is getting free - bit at a time. Am collecting and will measure gunge removed as the acetone will evaporate.

Update soon - holes drilled and tapped for sump plugs, swarf carefully lifted out and then small magnet to collect the rest prior to flushing.

 

[Alibro]

My VCU refurb continues - tried solvent in the garage to see what works on the silicon gel. Only thing that touches it (and makes it loads thinner) to clean out is Acetone.

Joke was, chemist wouldn't sell me a large quantity as it 'is very dangerous Sir !' however, went to a Nail Polish Bar and bought a litre of the damn stuff off the shelf - used for silicon nail polish remover apparently !
So - flushing with acetone and regular twists with a bar - it is getting free - bit at a time. Am collecting and will measure gunge removed as the acetone will evaporate.

Update soon - holes drilled and tapped for sump plugs, swarf carefully lifted out and then small magnet to collect the rest prior to flushing.

I considered using acetone but was concerned it might be too harsh.
BTW you can buy it by the gallon at any fibreglass wholesale supplier.

 

[Nodge68]

I considered using acetone but was concerned it might be too harsh.
BTW you can buy it by the gallon at any fibreglass wholesale supplier.

It's available on Ebay too.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-LITRE-A...685297?hash=item2cb9bc4871:g:16QAAOSwd0BVq9n~

 

[Madmustang]

Hmm, cunning plan. Trolley jack under the middle of the "chassis" rail, I guess, lift it, then one axle stand at each end? I'd have to move the jack out of the way to get good working access, but maybe that frees it up to be a VCU support anyway.

Pete

Be very careful with that. I did just that thinking there was nowt wrong with mine until it sounded like ww2 under my car when the outrigger collapsed. Saftey first use known jacking points. Now I have a double pain in the a$$. I have a welding job on and no car becasue the MOT is out :-(

 

[GrumpyGel]

Ouch !

 

[Madmustang]

Ouch !

Rushing you see but I share so others can learn from my mistakes.......One day I might learn as well

 

[Nodge68]

Replacement chassis rails are available
ALR7556 RH
ALR7557 LH
Those are the complete rails.
They are available through LR parts suppliers

 

[GrumpyGel]

Rushing you see but I share so others can learn from my mistakes.......One day I might learn as well

I never rush - I'm the other way round, I procrastinate. I always take a couple of coffees and a lot of head scratching before I start something I've not done before - then usually repeat every step of the way. The jobs I do on the car take a long time with many visits to the toilet before they are complete!

 

[GrumpyGel]

I never rush - I'm the other way round, I procrastinate. I always take a couple of coffees and a lot of head scratching before I start something I've not done before - then usually repeat every step of the way. The jobs I do on the car take a long time with many visits to the toilet before they are complete!

That doesn't mean to say I make any fewer errors or cock-ups. I think the last reasonable size job I did was to swap over the ABS pump/modulator. I procrastinated for ages so that I didn't get brake fluid everywhere....

Coffee and head scratching
Came up with a plan to stop fluid going everywhere
More coffee and head scratching
Double check the plan to stop fluid going everywhere
Toilet break
More coffee and head scratching
Action the plan
Brake fluid ****ing everywhere!

 

[Nodge68]

That doesn't mean to say I make any fewer errors or cock-ups. I think the last reasonable size job I did was to swap over the ABS pump/modulator. I procrastinated for ages so that I didn't get brake fluid everywhere....

Coffee and head scratching
Came up with a plan to stop fluid going everywhere
More coffee and head scratching
Double check the plan to stop fluid going everywhere
Toilet break
More coffee and head scratching
Action the plan
Brake fluid ****ing everywhere!

How do you get anything done

 

[GrumpyGel]

How do you get anything done

Slowly!

I have removed the bumper from my Freelander a few times. I'm swapping the front lights over today from the parts car - so I'm just reading up on Rave how to remove the front bumper. I'm sure I can remember where all the screws and scrivets are, and if I miss any I'll soon find out, but its those pesky brackets on the corner of the wings I can never remember what to do with - I don't want to trash the brackets or bumper!

 

[Madmustang]

I never rush - I'm the other way round, I procrastinate. I always take a couple of coffees and a lot of head scratching before I start something I've not done before - then usually repeat every step of the way. The jobs I do on the car take a long time with many visits to the toilet before they are complete!

Oh I do that as well. Sup some ale, have a cry, Sup some more ale, Have a Bio break or two, Sup some ale, get me tea, have a cup o tea my be sup some ale, Go to bed, So the next day after a Bacon butty and two coffees, Get cover alls on and choose a hat, Take them off for a bio break and get creaking before we loose the light at 4 of the clock. See Rushing