Yet another td4 that won't start

Hi all hear we go again me td4 won't go. I have had a diagnostic test done
it is saying edu ground controls fault. It also shows injector one fault.But this
is where I am stumped. When we clear the fault codes and start again the ecu fault reappears but the injector fault changes from one to two or four.
This will test you lads and lasses.:crazy:

Sounds to simple to me, but I would say the ECU needs to be replaced,
this would possibly be the reason for the moving Injector fault, its all confused
and seems to be drunk..

Plenty to choose from in here, but not sure what one you would need..

freelander td4 ecu | eBay

Good Luck.

Thanks for that (der) it could be as simple as that it didn't cross my mind.
This all started with a loss of power and its ended up where i am today. I have
replaced the low pressure pump but I will try another edu.
thank ill keep you all posted on the outcome

don't know why but my pc keep sending edu and not e c u

Bad ground connection maybe?

Yes I thought about that so I have cleaned the earths. It hasn't made any difference.
Still worth a go.

glynne11090 said:

don't know why but my pc keep sending edu and not e c u

Click to expand...

bad fingers like mine?

glynne11090 said:

Hi all hear we go again me td4 won't go. I have had a diagnostic test done
it is saying edu ground controls fault. It also shows injector one fault.But this
is where I am stumped. When we clear the fault codes and start again the ecu fault reappears but the injector fault changes from one to two or four.
This will test you lads and lasses.:crazy:

Click to expand...

dont be to hung up about diagnostics ,
you say it wont start ? but not yournot giving any history,
1 was it running ok before
2 was it running and it stopped
3 it fails to start from cold or whan its hot
4 has any work been done on it

the td4 is not that complicated and the ecu is the last thing you should be suspecting,

Right the story started with the vehicle loosing power, Then stopped running altogether. So checked the obvious,air and fuel filters but still wouldn't start.
Had a diagnostic test which came up with low fuel pressure pump so was replaced with a new one. But still won't start. I have had another test done which came up with the previous
mentioned faults.
Do you think this could be as simple as a faulty injector causing it to loose fuel pressure ?

i had the same on my old saab ,everything sounds the same as yours but mine made a funny sound for about 2 seconds before it stopped ,did diag etc kept coming up with fuel presure ,turned out the crank pully on the timming chain had slipped so how

glynne11090 said:

Right the story started with the vehicle loosing power, Then stopped running altogether. So checked the obvious,air and fuel filters but still wouldn't start.
Had a diagnostic test which came up with low fuel pressure pump so was replaced with a new one. But still won't start. I have had another test done which came up with the previous
mentioned faults.
Do you think this could be as simple as a faulty injector causing it to loose fuel pressure ?

Click to expand...

If it's a common rail engine, one duff leaking injector will lower the rail pressure enough to stop it starting.

Pointing to fuel pressure but had ECU ground control fault. changes from injector 1 to two or four but does not refer to number three.

Someones fooked up the new fuel pump install?...maybe?:what:

Going to pick up a set of injectors tomorrow to see if that cures it.

Fitted new fuel pump myself. defo not as you put it fooked up.

sounds like lack of fuel pressure ? you need to have pressure at the fuel filter, and at the injector rail, as you have fitted a new pump, test its output , remove the pipe to the filter and let it discharge into a suitable container, there should be a good flow rate, not to much air,
also check the injectors leak off,
make sure the connection to the fuel rail pressure sensor is clean, the wiring harness/connecton plug can be suspect

Ta I have plenty of low pressure.I have checked the connector to the fuel rail and it all looks fine.
Am I barking up the wrong tree in thinking it could be an injector fault. Something I have noticed is when I turn the ignition on I can hear the low pressure pump working but there is a hiss coming from the high pressure pump. This I am guessing is air drawing in from a duff injector. What do you think ?

can you confirm , the original fault , you were driving and the engine cut out ?
if that is the case, suspect fuel related ie fuel pump,
the hissing noise is most probably returning fuel from the hp pump fuel regulator, so dont go chasing faults that are not there, been there done that .
do an injector leakoff test
if you are able to remove the injectors, reverse the pipework and test them firing, i have posted a thead the other week with pics, also look on youtube under td4 injector testing,
now i dont want to worry you but the other year i was driving along and my td4 stopped all of a sudden , it turned out that the inlet camshaft drive sprocket had come loose, took ages to find the fault, as you can imagine lots of head scratching, and when i eventually got it running, the crankshaft had snapped and was being kept in place by the big end bearing,

Being very generic, diesels are simple in principle and non-starting (major engine faults apart) are usually caused by low or no fuel pressure. This ties in with your gradual loss of power. My suggestion would be to check the following, depending on what equipment you have access to. In order of ease/least expensive:

- Check you have an injector pulse signal using a 12v multimeter or LED voltage tester (or a 12v LED bulb from halford and two wires). If you get someone to crank the engine you should see pulses - about 4 per second at cranking speed. No pulse = electrical problem - ECU, sensor, bad earth?

- If you have a pulse (ahem), ignore the ECU errors for now and focus on checking fuel pressure and delivery system. Do a leak back test on the injectors, this costs nothing except some plastic pipe, as the engine will be cranking rather than running you are looking for one injector that leaks back significantly more than the others. Ideally you should check the fuel pressure first but the leak back test is easier with simple equipment at home. Don't crank the engine for too long (i.e. more than 20 seconds?) or you risk cooking the starter.

- If the injectors seem okay then next step is to ascertain the fuel pressure on the rail. You are unlikely to have the kit to measure this so I would first check the fuel delivery to the high pressure pump (i.e. the mechanical one that feeds the rail). If this is okay then suggest you look at the fuel pressure control system - the bit that screws in to the RH end of the rail is the fuel pressure sensor -the fuel pressure regulator is attached to the back of the fuel pump by two screws. I *think* I am correct in saying that a faulty fuel pressure sensor will not stop the engine from starting, and you can do a basic check on it with a multimeter.

Two questions: -

- Which fuel pump did you replace (tank/wheel arch/high pressure)?

- When it started to lose power - did the engine run on a few seconds after you turned the ignition off?

Coincidently have just dealt with the exact same symptoms on my mothers 2008 Volvo C30 1.6 Diesel - the problem was the fuel filter clogged with brown wax like substance. She has had the car from new, only 24k miles, 9 time out of 10 she fills up a Tesco. Or rather she used to...

Hi all the problem started with a loss of power but was still drivable, Then after a while like this it came to where I am now that it just won't start at all.
I have looked at the leak off test on youtube but it shows the test being carried out on a running engine, unfortunately I am unable to carry out the test in that way.
Is there a way of testing the leak off with the engine being cranked over ?