Hi, Sport and Manual lights flashing again, now happening more often, Sometimes a ignition cycle clears them, but now and again it generate a fault code P0705 but it NEVER puts the MIL light on, which it should according to the fault list in the Rave Manual. I'm hoping I can live with it till the weather gets warmer Any suggestions please. Stay Safe Everybody.
Disco 2 XYZ Switch Auto Box 2004
- Thread starter ES4
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sierrafery
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Hi. As you say P0705 should bring on the MIL too according to the protocol but it doesnt happen too often in reality. You'll have to replace that XYZ switch sooner or later cos at a point the vehicle will not start or go to permannent limp mode. Unless the harness is chafed at the notorious P clip on the T-box
sierrafery
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Clearing the code will not fox anything for more than few seconds untill the fault occurs again
Feathers McGraw
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It'll only get more persistent as well as mine did. Replacing was a bit fiddly but very straightforward. As Feri suggests, check the wiring harness for damage first.
JUKE179r
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You can also take apart the XYZ switch and clean the internal contacts.
sierrafery
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Unless it's the Bosch unit with sealed microswitches
... IIRC those were fitted to late facelifts but it's not 100%
JUKE179r
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Thanks Ferry,
OP... peep these out for the XYZ switch cleaning..
http://www.handyhowie.co.uk/handyhowie/Disco_Gear_Selector_Switch.html
OP... peep these out for the XYZ switch cleaning..
http://www.handyhowie.co.uk/handyhowie/Disco_Gear_Selector_Switch.html
Hi, Thanks Everybody for the links, I hope its not the Bosch version as I don't think there's much that can be done other than a physical clean up. At least with the copper track version you can see what state the contacts are in. Lets hope the weather picks up soon so I can get started. Take Care everybody.
Kenbo
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My D2 probably has the later switch, is it supposed to be a better/ more reliable part. ?
sierrafery
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Not necessarily if the aircon drains are not rerouted and it gets lots of water though it's a bit more robust that the other
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JUKE179r
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No. No it doesn’t help him. You are just bragging now. Lol
sierrafery
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ronsealdeath
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Taking the exhaust out makes xyz switch a lot easier, but the after tackling the crossmembers and turbo downpipe nuts, you may just give up anyway!
Rebuild the xyz switch yourself, its very simple if its the black unit. Arcing causes carbon to build up and you lose N or other gears on the switch. Bend the contacts into place and use a good electrical contact cleaner and protector. I used servisol and seems ok.
Rebuild the xyz switch yourself, its very simple if its the black unit. Arcing causes carbon to build up and you lose N or other gears on the switch. Bend the contacts into place and use a good electrical contact cleaner and protector. I used servisol and seems ok.
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DO NOT ignore the advice about the P clip chafing the wiring harness.
It is not easy to see, but it happens.
A lot.
Imagine if you went to all the trouble of "sorting out" the XYZ switch and still had the problem.
you'd be kicking yourself.
It is not easy to see, but it happens.
A lot.
Imagine if you went to all the trouble of "sorting out" the XYZ switch and still had the problem.
you'd be kicking yourself.
Hi Everybody, Well now the cold weather is over I started on the xyz switch only to hit massive problems. can't even hardly see the switch let alone get to it, the cat is in the way. Then I discovered that to get the front pipe off the crossmember has to come off. 8 x 10mm flange bolts. used a brand new hex impact socket got 3 out, the others just rounded off. Tried heat, Irwin bolt removers, impact wrench, nothing will shift them so ridiculously tight. Definitely need some help/suggestions.
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PopPops
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One technique I have used in the past with success on other bolts is to weld another bolt onto the damaged head, probably an M10 in this case. It gives you a larger bolt to get the socket on and the heat may help, but I know you have used heat already.
Good luck, undoing LR bolts is always a nightmare!
