Would HD springs on a 90 help cure a heavy trailer swinging?

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If it were me I would go genuine standard,some ten years ago I fitted Britpart HD [the yellow one's] They were on a fortnight,the ride was a back killer and I could stand it no more so back to standard it went.
 
tottot said:
If it were me I would go genuine standard,some ten years ago I fitted Britpart HD [the yellow one's] They were on a fortnight,the ride was a back killer and I could stand it no more so back to standard it went.
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Unless you only use it for towing heavey loads I would aslo recomned genuine standard. They are what land rover spend huge amount of time and money on to give the best all round performance. Anything else would be better at one aspect (off road, heavy towing, comfort, etc) but hugely compromised in all of the others.
 
Take your points on original Landrover springs but they are quite dear, £280/set from what I can see.

I have found some puma springs that have been taken off by someone lifting their Landrover. Are they just the same as td5 springs?
 
Farmer Brown said:
Take your points on original Landrover springs but they are quite dear, £280/set from what I can see.

I have found some puma springs that have been taken off by someone lifting their Landrover. Are they just the same as td5 springs?
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Springs will make no difference to trailer swing. It is always caused by too little noseweight, or tyre and suspension issues.
 
Turboman said:
Springs will make no difference to trailer swing. It is always caused by too little noseweight, or tyre and suspension issues.
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If your springs are as hard up as mine i reckon it will make a difference. I didn’t realise how bad they were still I took a proper look at how much squash I was getting. Shocks are new. Trailer is pretty new and tyres are all at correct pressures and in good condition.

As for nose weight easy enough to set if your cargo doesn’t move about but judging from your profile pic you should be aware that cows don’t always stand nice and still and love to play sardines at the front or back if the trailer. Therefore I was reckoning that stiffer springs would stop the lr squashing down at back and going light at front if my passengers decided to play sardines at the front of the trailer. I have a an extra rear door that stops then going to far back.
 
Farmer Brown said:
Take your points on original Landrover springs but they are quite dear, £280/set from what I can see.
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I fitted OEM ones to my D1 when I bought it - at 18/19 years old, I reckon they were worn out - IIRC, they were about £20 each from Craddocks. ( think they are GKN (?) ).
 
Farmer Brown said:
If your springs are as hard up as mine i reckon it will make a difference. I didn’t realise how bad they were still I took a proper look at how much squash I was getting. Shocks are new. Trailer is pretty new and tyres are all at correct pressures and in good condition.

As for nose weight easy enough to set if your cargo doesn’t move about but judging from your profile pic you should be aware that cows don’t always stand nice and still and love to play sardines at the front or back if the trailer. Therefore I was reckoning that stiffer springs would stop the lr squashing down at back and going light at front if my passengers decided to play sardines at the front of the trailer. I have a an extra rear door that stops then going to far back.
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With cattle, or any stock, it is best to have then tied by the halters at the front of the trailer, or if they are not trained, to have a partition in to prevent them wandering to the back of the trailer and causing negative noseweight.

I have towed a lot of trailers, with a lot of different vehicles, and I haven't generally seen the worn springs make much difference. Obviously if your springs are so worn that the back of the vehicle is very low, that could make negative noseweight more likely.

The rears springs and tyres do take a lot of extra load during towing, so if they are very worn it is probably a good idea to replace them.
But I would be wary of HD springs, they will make the ride extremely harsh when you are not towing.
 
Turboman said:
With cattle, or any stock, it is best to have then tied by the halters at the front of the trailer, or if they are not trained, to have a partition in to prevent them wandering to the back of the trailer and causing negative noseweight.

I have towed a lot of trailers, with a lot of different vehicles, and I haven't generally seen the worn springs make much difference. Obviously if your springs are so worn that the back of the vehicle is very low, that could make negative noseweight more likely.

The rears springs and tyres do take a lot of extra load during towing, so if they are very worn it is probably a good idea to replace them.
But I would be wary of HD springs, they will make the ride extremely harsh when you are not towing.
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Tying with halters sounds nice but it isn’t practical. These aren’t halter trained show beasts and I don’t now anyone who does that. Best thing is to have them tight in trailer but they can still move around a lot.

Going to get new springs. Choice seems to be original Land Rover (bit dear for old Betsy) or good oem springs. Leaning towards bearmach as I think there stuff is ok and there is a bearmach dealer just along the road from me.

Also going to try an anti swing kit.

Unfortunately got a 60 mile run tomorrow and haven’t had time to sort things so hopefully no squeaky bum moments.
 
Farmer Brown said:
Tying with halters sounds nice but it isn’t practical. These aren’t halter trained show beasts and I don’t now anyone who does that. Best thing is to have them tight in trailer but they can still move around a lot.

Going to get new springs. Choice seems to be original Land Rover (bit dear for old Betsy) or good oem springs. Leaning towards bearmach as I think there stuff is ok and there is a bearmach dealer just along the road from me.

Also going to try an anti swing kit.

Unfortunately got a 60 mile run tomorrow and haven’t had time to sort things so hopefully no squeaky bum moments.
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Training cattle isn't difficult. I could come up and teach you how for a fee. :)

But provided you have a partion in at about the line of the rearmost axle, they can't go too far back if loose in the trailer.

The anti-swing kits can help, but they are an extra thing to hook up, it is better to try and avoid the problem through correct weight distribution.
You should be OK, try and avoid braking as much as possible, and take it easy on bends. I take it you are inflating your rear tyres to the max towing pressures as stated in the owners book?
 
Ear defenders & iPod if in tractor.
Not loud,so I can still hear/feel the machinery.

Not had any tunes in this landy for 15years. So No holes in grp truck cab headlining.

Even in a"new" motor I don't have the stereo on.
 
Hicap phill said:
Don't go fast. Ifors only go quick when there empty ;)
Also you say it's the springs but check your steering as you could have slack on some joints.
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Steering isn’t great as steering box is leaking a bit but I did replace the ball joint in the arm underneath end of last year. Problem tends to occur when they go to the front of the trailer and the back of LR sits right down and the front comes up. Can be a bit like a bucking bronco.
 
Turboman said:
Training cattle isn't difficult. I could come up and teach you how for a fee. :)

But provided you have a partion in at about the line of the rearmost axle, they can't go too far back if loose in the trailer.

The anti-swing kits can help, but they are an extra thing to hook up, it is better to try and avoid the problem through correct weight distribution.
You should be OK, try and avoid braking as much as possible, and take it easy on bends. I take it you are inflating your rear tyres to the max towing pressures as stated in the owners book?
Click to expand...


If I put the partition door in line with rear axle I wouldn't get 5 big lads in.
 
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