worried about my engine

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raywin said:
I think that may be the case, such a big difference without the cat
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of course it will you have more flow even a good working stock cat hinders performance ....this is why some street racing enthusiasts install high flow cats as it keeps the law at bay


do you still have the EGR system active ?
 
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raywin said:
Took off the catotonic converter yesterday a pain to do but bloody he'll performance feels much better, I reckon the cat is sooted up.
I read lots of wondwefull ways to clean them but seems like a load of rubbish, I did wonder if you hang it up, then put a blowtorch in the pipe and let the red hot air pass through it for an hour if it would get hot enough to burn up the soot.
Click to expand...

of course it will you have more flow even a good working stock cat hinders performance ....this is why some street racing enthusiasts install high flow cats as it keeps the law at bay ....some just do a delete


take a deep breath inhale quickly through the mouth .... then try an exhale just as quickly through the nostrils ? please dont pass out this is only an example


do you still have the EGR system active ?[/QUOTE]
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
of course it will you have more flow even a good working stock cat hinders performance ....this is why some street racing enthusiasts install high flow cats as it keeps the law at bay ....some just do a delete


take a deep breath inhale quickly through the mouth .... then try an exhale just as quickly through the nostrils ? please dont pass out this is only an example


do you still have the EGR system active ?
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]
No the EGR is blanked off in the line from the manifold to the exhaust gas cooler
 
No the EGR is blanked off in the line from the manifold to the exhaust gas cooler[/QUOTE]
you mean a blanking plate
 
No the EGR is blanked off in the line from the manifold to the exhaust gas cooler[/QUOTE]
so emissions is out the window ...delete the cat job done
 
ozzyboydeano said:
No the EGR is blanked off in the line from the manifold to the exhaust gas cooler
Click to expand...
you mean a blanking plate[/QUOTE]
Yes a simple blank in the flexible line where it joins the small cooler on the front of the engine, also added a blank gasket in the line whick goes to the actual egr valve itself to be sure no boost pressure is lost.
 
raywin said:
you mean a blanking plate
Click to expand...
Yes a simple blank in the flexible line where it joins the small cooler on the front of the engine, also added a blank gasket in the line whick goes to the actual egr valve itself to be sure no boost pressure is lost.[/QUOTE]
 
ozzyboydeano said:
Yes a simple blank in the flexible line where it joins the small cooler on the front of the engine, also added a blank gasket in the line whick goes to the actual egr valve itself to be sure no boost pressure is lost.
Click to expand...

do you still have the solenoids active ?
 
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raywin said:
Previously I had them isolated but the actualvalve is 're connected both electrical and the vacuum lines
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even though you have a blanking plate the EGR actuators still work as normal
it could be possible the butterfly plate that looks like a throttle plate could be stuck or sticking a slight restriction in the air intake the engine still puts the same amount of fuel resulting in a damaged cat or extra soot out the exhaust ...... as unsure how yours failed you would need to cut it open and inspect

you can leave the soleniods in place and active .. some forget to remove the butterfly plate even though they have a blanking plate installed ... some also convert to a straight through pipe and remove the full EGR valve

however i maybe wrong in your case how the cat failed but i have had this happen on sticking egr valves ..it could also be case of the injector cleaner has damaged the injectors ? resulting in wrong fuelling time or spray pattern atomisation
 
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When I blanked the EGR originaly I took out the valve and saved it,
Due to changes in the MOT test in the UK I put it back recently for the test. Before I fitted it I cleaned it and tested it to be sure it worked,
The valve is actualy a flat disk which covers the orifice and blocks the exhaust flow its a bit like a screw down stop valve, to open it is pulled back by a small actuator using the vacuum from the alternater vac pump, when it is open it only presents a thin disk edge on to the air flow, so I dont think it would be a huge issue, and for the past three years it was not fitted anyway.
 
Hi Raywin avoid using c3 engine oil in your TD5 if you are btw, this can cause them to smoke
 
Well i ordered a set of timing pins, found then on tbay and picked them up quite cheap, arrived today.
Going to check out the timing set up, might not be related but might as well check, and if I pull the engine out later in the year they will be useful.
 
Possibly of interest - I changed the injector loom on mine over the weekend as it was starting to show oil in the multiplug on the cylinder head. My exhaust seems to be a lot cleaner now. Whereas it was smoky on startup before, the new filters when I serviced it a couple of weeks ago improved matters, and now I can hardly see any exhaust smoke at all. I'm no longer worried about the MOT smoke test.
 
Brown said:
Possibly of interest - I changed the injector loom on mine over the weekend as it was starting to show oil in the multiplug on the cylinder head. My exhaust seems to be a lot cleaner now. Whereas it was smoky on startup before, the new filters when I serviced it a couple of weeks ago improved matters, and now I can hardly see any exhaust smoke at all. I'm no longer worried about the MOT smoke test.
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Thanks Brian thats interesting, I had not thought that might influece the engine smoke output so much but I supose the injector firing is crutial to good running, I looked at the plug on the head and it was bone dry ( see post 68) , but in the past there has been the dreaded wet red plug, I still spray it with brake cleaner now and again, just to get it perfectly dry.
When I bought the vehicle it had one of those clip on tune up chips fitted which was simply scotch locked onto the loom near the ECU, I took that off but it still troubles me to have the insulation on the injector leads cut and just covered up with tape. I also wondered if they did anything to the ECU setings when this was fitted and I would like to get hold of a know good, bog standard ECU map for the defender TD5 and upload it to see if that may help.
I bought a new loom from Shifty some time ago ( and I still have your old one in my garage ) I am planning to do a big engine job if I have time this summer and fitting a new loom would be part of the story, would be nice if it gets it working better again.
 
raywin said:
Thanks Brian thats interesting, I had not thought that might influece the engine smoke output so much but I supose the injector firing is crutial to good running, I looked at the plug on the head and it was bone dry ( see post 68) , but in the past there has been the dreaded wet red plug, I still spray it with brake cleaner now and again, just to get it perfectly dry.
When I bought the vehicle it had one of those clip on tune up chips fitted which was simply scotch locked onto the loom near the ECU, I took that off but it still troubles me to have the insulation on the injector leads cut and just covered up with tape. I also wondered if they did anything to the ECU setings when this was fitted and I would like to get hold of a know good, bog standard ECU map for the defender TD5 and upload it to see if that may help.
I bought a new loom from Shifty some time ago ( and I still have your old one in my garage ) I am planning to do a big engine job if I have time this summer and fitting a new loom would be part of the story, would be nice if it gets it working better again.
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Beg your pardon, I'd overlooked post 68, as this thread had got so long. I suppose my point is that because the injectors open and close anything between 10 times and 30-40 times a second it's the signal transmission properties of the loom that are critical rather than just continuity or shorting. So anything that degrades the signal, including oil, changes in the properties of the insulation or conductors will change the quality of the signal. Anyway, I'm pleasantly surprised at how clean my exhaust is looking now.
 
Brown said:
Beg your pardon, I'd overlooked post 68, as this thread had got so long. I suppose my point is that because the injectors open and close anything between 10 times and 30-40 times a second it's the signal transmission properties of the loom that are critical rather than just continuity or shorting. So anything that degrades the signal, including oil, changes in the properties of the insulation or conductors will change the quality of the signal. Anyway, I'm pleasantly surprised at how clean my exhaust is looking now.
Click to expand...
Thats great news and it gives me some hope that one day I will get this bloody engine running the way I want it to.
 
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