Series 3 Won't start up!

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You have had the starter working properly
Was the lead from battery positive to starter a jump lead needs to be big to take current and was this done with fully charged battery
As rob said above go through all the heavy connections including earths to body remove and rub each clean and shiny with sandpaper/ emery cloth
The glow plugs best removed and checked or check resistance with meter
 
Note the lead from heater plug no 1 to the block , if this is missing then they won’t work
2630BCFF-3910-4804-9CB6-FDD68A85ADE0.png
 
steve2286w said:
You have had the starter working properly
Was the lead from battery positive to starter a jump lead needs to be big to take current and was this done with fully charged battery
As rob said above go through all the heavy connections including earths to body remove and rub each clean and shiny with sandpaper/ emery cloth
The glow plugs best removed and checked or check resistance with meter
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Yes Steve, lead was big and the battery fully charged. Questioning the starter now that it is poorly turining
 
I've a slow turning starter on my 2.25 petrol. New starter and leads. I suspect the solenoid but I'm slightly nervous about shorting it with a screw driver. Am I being a big Jessy? Also where are people getting new solenoids from?
 
Rubins4 said:
I've a slow turning starter on my 2.25 petrol. New starter and leads. I suspect the solenoid but I'm slightly nervous about shorting it with a screw driver. Am I being a big Jessy? Also where are people getting new solenoids from?
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Don't worry mate, you might have some sparks flying but don't be afraid hehe
 
Jake P said:
Lets say my alternator is not working, could this affect the startup in any way?
Thanks!
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If a diode in the alternator has gone, the battery will drain when the engine isn't running. Is it always hard to start or only when it's been left for a few days?

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
If a diode in the alternator has gone, the battery will drain when the engine isn't running. Is it always hard to start or only when it's been left for a few days?

Col
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Its always hard to start however I remove the negative terminal when I'm not using it.
 
The original glow plugs are powered in series via a resistor putting 12V to each plug is likely to burn them out.From memory each glow plug only gets 2V across its two connections.
Possible to fit later parrallel glow plugs easy to tell series will have two wires on each glow plug parrallel only one wire.
 
The bulb in the circuit pictured above limits the flow to the plug and you are only making a short contact just to test that it lights proving the plug has continuity.
 
tottot said:
The bulb in the circuit pictured above limits the flow to the plug and you are only making a short contact just to test that it lights proving the plug has continuity.
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Excuse my ignorance but how do you suggest to check the plugs please?
 
Your plugs are the old type. You can tell by the way the terminals are separated by the ceramic isolation. Electrickery fairies travel down to number one plug and dance on its end until warm. They then skip along to number two via the glowing end. If number one has burnt out they can’t use it as a bridge to number two so none of the others will work. If number two is brokid then three and four won’t work etc.
You can pop one out and earth it on the side of the block rather like a spark plug test and see if it glows. Be warned though, do it with pliers. They get ‘red’ hot.

Conversion kits to the more modern type ain’t that dear but seem to have several wiring instructions depending on their source. The good thing about those is if one is bust, the others still work.
 
Bobsticle said:
Your plugs are the old type. You can tell by the way the terminals are separated by the ceramic isolation. Electrickery fairies travel down to number one plug and dance on its end until warm. They then skip along to number two via the glowing end. If number one has burnt out they can’t use it as a bridge to number two so none of the others will work. If number two is brokid then three and four won’t work etc.
You can pop one out and earth it on the side of the block rather like a spark plug test and see if it glows. Be warned though, do it with pliers. They get ‘red’ hot.

Conversion kits to the more modern type ain’t that dear but seem to have several wiring instructions depending on their source. The good thing about those is if one is bust, the others still work.
Click to expand...
Awesome explanation, will give it a go then!
 
So I guess I got it figured out tonight...I went to the pump station I got my new battery from (he's a good family friend) and he gave me a new battery to try out and a voltmeter. I hooked up the new battery and the landy fired up nice and loud (happy moment). The alternator seems not to be working as the voltage remained around 12.6v throughout, even when revving.
I then connected my battery and the starter wouldn't even turn over. I'll get the battery charged up real good and see from there. Perhaps its defective as well. Thanks for your help guys! I'll keep you posted

Jake
 
Jake P said:
Thanks Steve! I passed a copper wire from the positive terminal to the connections on the glow plugs (I think I did it correctly) and they all made a spark. I think they are working ok but I'll get them checked out still. More so the starter is turning reallyyy slow or nothing. So I passed a direct lead from the positive terminal of the battery to the starter directly. Starter didn't turn at all. So I guess, starter needs checking then right?
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Reason for my comment OP quote above.
 
Colthebrummie said:
Don't fart about, change the alternator. I don't know why there was all the chatter about glow plugs.

Col
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There can be many reasons for poor starting. If your having to crank the bejesus out of your battery every day for short journeys then they are worth checking regularly.
Glad to hear one of the issues has been solved and I’m sure discussing other possible problems helps familiarise everyone with potential faults.

For not much more money it may be worth while getting an upgraded alternator with a bit more umph as the standard LR part may struggle if you add more modern ancillaries later on.
 
The original post said the starter was struggling to turn the engine over, diesels need a good umph to get them going so it seemed the battery, starter or alternator was the issue, I couldn't work out why glow plugs came into the equation but I might have missed a post or two.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
The original post said the starter was struggling to turn the engine over, diesels need a good umph to get them going so it seemed the battery, starter or alternator was the issue, I couldn't work out why glow plugs came into the equation but I might have missed a post or two.

Col
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Yes I think you did... The point was that the engine ought to fire in a few turns if it doesn't then one reason could be the heater plugs aren't working properly.
 
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