Wiring advice please (for spotlights)

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mikerajjers

mikerajjers

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,467
Location
Bedford UK or Trnava SK
Hi all,

I'm wanting to fit my Hella spots in the next few days. Never tried car electrics before but fairly confident. Found a wiring diagram on this forum and bought most bits I will need.

Two questions at the moment. Where is the best place to physically attach wire from high/low stalk to terminal 86 of the relay (via another switch)? I'm thinking somewhere near the fuse to the high/low beam, is that right? This should allow me to switch the spots on with the high beam switch.

Second question, where is the best place (hole) to get wires from the engine bay to the dash?

I have a 2003 LHD TD5

Thanks
 
As above, just take the feed from the back of one of the lights in the engine bay. Also do a direct fused live feed from the battery and obviously an earth close to the lamps. You then just have to run one single wire through one of the existing bulhead gromets from a switch in the cabin. Much more simple!
 
blgdave said:
As above, just take the feed from the back of one of the lights in the engine bay. Also do a direct fused live feed from the battery and obviously an earth close to the lamps. You then just have to run one single wire through one of the existing bulhead gromets from a switch in the cabin. Much more simple!
Click to expand...

just use a kit or go off the main beam feed to a relay and you don't need to go into the cabin :)
 
Was thinking to pick it up in the cabin as there will be an on/off switch in there too (so shorter wire?) but I guess it will be easier picking it off the headlamp. Your ideas certainly save faffing about with the wires inside so I will take your advice.

Will be using a feed from the battery for sure.

Thanks!
 
You will still need a feed into the cabin if you want to be able to switch the lamps on and off independantly. If you just want them with mainbeam constantly, then no need for extra wire as mentioned.
 
Sorry for the hijack But i have a related question.

My D2 has the soft A-bar and a couple of spots fitted thanks to the factory auxiliary lighting kit. This consists of a switch on the dash below the fog light switches to command the spots to illuminate with main beam... or not :)

Under the bonnet there's a sealed plastic module with its own 15A fuse and a multi-pin plug.

The system has been problematic since I bought the D2 last year. (A known trait apparently!) Assuming I have enabled the spots to come on with main beam (they do not illuminate seperately) they will go off, then on, then off etc. etc. for random amounts of time.

The question is, can I run an appropriate old-school relay and wires off the pins in the plug - that way there's no messing with the dashboard ;) ?

Ta. :tea:
 
DIFFLOCK66 said:
Sorry for the hijack But i have a related question.

My D2 has the soft A-bar and a couple of spots fitted thanks to the factory auxiliary lighting kit. This consists of a switch on the dash below the fog light switches to command the spots to illuminate with main beam... or not :)

Under the bonnet there's a sealed plastic module with its own 15A fuse and a multi-pin plug.

The system has been problematic since I bought the D2 last year. (A known trait apparently!) Assuming I have enabled the spots to come on with main beam (they do not illuminate seperately) they will go off, then on, then off etc. etc. for random amounts of time.

The question is, can I run an appropriate old-school relay and wires off the pins in the plug - that way there's no messing with the dashboard ;) ?

Ta. :tea:
Click to expand...

yup, just take a feed from main as the relay activator.

but you could probably fix the factory setup :)
 
Also take the feed from the 15A as your main feed through the relay. The sealed platic module you mention is probably just a relay itself? Will it not open up? If its broke anyway, worth trying to prise it open and see if it can be fixed. Or just by pass it and run your new relay wires from the wores going into and from it. Should be easy enough to work out which is which with a wife and a multi tester? ;)
 
Don't waste your time trying to repair the control box, they have a crappy small relay in them, which burns-out.

They're also filled with a potting compound, which makes it impossible to get at any of the components on its circuitboard.

They're bloody expensive to replace - and, will fail again eventually.

I posted a 'how to' on here, explaining how to replace this control box with a standard relay, here -

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/safari-5000-driving-lamps-wiring-diagram.203300/#post-2204556

.
 
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