Wiring a worklight.

McBad · Apr 30, 2013

Hi, does anyone have a wiring diagram for wiring a worklight?

I want to be able to control the light from either of two switches, one on the dashboard and one just inside the back door. If one switch has turned it on I want to be able to turn it off by switching either the same switch or the other one. (Sort of similar to the way a staircase landing light is wired in a house, where you can switch it on or off from either upstairs or downstairs.)

Also, ideally, I'd like the switches to be the illuminated type and for them both to light up as a warning when the light is on.

Suspect this might be tricky.

Has anyone found a way to do it?

Thanks,

M

timtheenchanteruk · Apr 30, 2013

first bit is easy, same as any other 2 way switch, but take the "load" to the relay for the lights.
The illuminated switches, not so, not seen an on/on switch with that function. an indicator lamp like a bezel mounted LED would be the easiest way, not sure why you need one at the back though (you do need one at the front to warn if you've left it on

)

brian47 · Apr 30, 2013

timtheenchanteruk said:
first bit is easy, same as any other 2 way switch, but take the "load" to the relay for the lights.
The illuminated switches, not so, not seen an on/on switch with that function. an indicator lamp like a bezel mounted LED would be the easiest way, not sure why you need one at the back though (you do need one at the front to warn if you've left it on )

I'm with Tim on this, you'll need 2 two-way (change-over) switches with some twin cable between them. If you're going to run in some twin cable, try some three wire cable instead and use the third wire to connect an indicator light at each end and then connect it to the worklamp.
1.5 sq mm mains cable is usually OK for a single lamp or a relay. Don't forget to fuse the circuit properly.

jcuk · Apr 30, 2013

I'm crap at drawing, so I hope this makes sense.

The grey rectangles are illuminated change over switches. The 3rd bulb is your worklight, or if its large enough to need a relay, then it would be the relay coil.

McBad · Apr 30, 2013

Thanks all for useful help. I'll let you know what I finally sort out. I like the 3-core cable idea and thank you also for the wiring diagram.

M

PaulMc · May 1, 2013

I've got the rear worklamps on my 110 switched inside the back door and on the dash, using changeover switches.

On these switches, the tell-tale warning light has its own live and earth terminals, so they've been wired so that both switches illuminate with the worklights.

This does mean that you have to run an extra cable from the rear, to the dash switch.

Here's my diagram -

.

trax · May 1, 2013

i'm a bit nuts and like to keep things simple. I'd use a single switch on the dash and walk the extra meter

McBad · May 4, 2013

Hi Paul, do you have any links for the on/on changeover switches you used? I've searched on-line and through the rack in Halfrauds and I'm not finding them... especially rocker type with illumination on separate pins... Thanks, M

(Trax, think I agree and won't bother with the illuminated switch at the back door - I'd be stood under the light there anyway. Need some sort of warning on the dashboard though that the light is on.)

PaulMc · May 4, 2013

McBad said:
Hi Paul, do you have any links for the on/on changeover switches you used? I've searched on-line and through the rack in Halfrauds and I'm not finding them... especially rocker type with illumination on separate pins... Thanks, M

(Trax, think I agree and won't bother with the illuminated switch at the back door - I'd be stood under the light there anyway. Need some sort of warning on the dashboard though that the light is on.)

I made the switches from a couple of standard switches.

They are Arrow-Hart (now Arcolectric) 'smooth' rocker switches from RS.

I used a Double-Pole Double-Throw (DPDT) switch body (but, only using a single pole for the worklight switching), with the Red translucent rocker from an illuminated switch.

The switches are 240V 10A rated, so the illuminated switches (which are DPST) have a Neon across the output terminals.

For my worklight switches independent 'tell-tale' warning light, I used a small 'grain of wheat' bulb with its wire tails connected to the second (unused) switch pole terminals.

If you're only having a warning light at the dash, it will be easier to use standard on/on changeover switches and a separate warning light.

.

trax · May 4, 2013

McBad said:
Hi Paul, do you have any links for the on/on changeover switches you used? I've searched on-line and through the rack in Halfrauds and I'm not finding them... especially rocker type with illumination on separate pins... Thanks, M

(Trax, think I agree and won't bother with the illuminated switch at the back door - I'd be stood under the light there anyway. Need some sort of warning on the dashboard though that the light is on.)

I'm just using an illuminated pull switch the same as VWP - pushbutton and pull switches . but i like to keep things simple/basic on the fender

Pauldw · May 4, 2013

Ive got a switch on the dash, but it also triggers from the reverse lights too - all through relays and separate feeds.

McBad · May 4, 2013

Thanks guys. I've spent the afternoon getting all the wires run from behind the glove-box to the back door pillar, ready for the switching and lights. Will need to have a think about where to tap into power...

(I also put a mount for a CB aerial in the centre of the roof and ran the coax down to the driver's footwell. That allowed me to put the head-lining back in the vehicle and clear a huge space in our living room. Lots of brownie points with Mrs McBad!)

Wiring a worklight.

McBad

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timtheenchanteruk

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brian47

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jcuk

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McBad

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PaulMc

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trax

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McBad

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PaulMc

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trax

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Pauldw

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McBad

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