Disco 2 Window motor variations.

When I bought my 2001 Discovery 2 the driver's door window would go down but not up. I took the regulator and motor out. The regulator looks to be in good condition and slides smoothly once I'd cleaned and re-greased it.

It didn't fix the problem though so I dismantled the motor. The motor itself has some damage but looks like it should work so I suspect the gears that mate with the worm gear on the motor spindle have been chewed up. Unfortunately that part does not look user serviceable. So I'm looking at replacement window motors and I've noticed that there is a difference between those available and the one out of my car.

On mine the connector is on the motor itself, whereas those for sale seem to have a short cable (like https://www.lrdirect.com/CUR100440-Motor-Assy-Window-Rh/). Does anyone know whether the connectors are compatible? My suspicion is no.

I think the designed I'm seeing available for sale may actually be superior as it looks like it might be better from a water tightness point of view, the connector on mine seems to be sealed with grease alone.

This was the damage to the old motor. I couldn't find the bits that seem to be missing which I thought was odd. It still turns though.

The window regulator motors are the part numbers you've quoted; CUR100440 for the RH doors and CUR100450 for the LH doors.
All illustrations I can find for those motors have a tail for connections rather than a connector actually on the body. This doesn't account for the possibility of a "modification" by a previous owner.
Testing the motor will require connecting 12 volts to make the motor drive in one direction and reversing the polarity of the 12 volts to make the motor drive in the other direction.
There are generally two electrical faults that can occur with the windows:

1. They cease to work both up and down, either completely or intermittently. Here the fault is often a broken wire, usually inside the little rubber tube grommet between the door and the doorpost, where there is an amount of mechanical stress.
   
2. They cease to work either up or down. This fault is most often in the BCU. Depending on the request to wind the window up or down, the BCU uses a pair of relays to reverse and feed the power to the motors of the front windows. The rear windows are directly switched without using the BCU.

I've just found this youtube video

which shows this little cable is detachable, so it looks like the little cable has stayed inside my door when I've removed the motor. I'd not realised there was a second connector as I was following the steps detailed in the atlantic british youtube video on regulator replacement.

I'll have a fish around inside the door and see if I can confirm that and then I can hopefully order a new motor and reassemble everything. Not having a working window is surprisingly annoying when you have to go into car parks with barriers.

Are you sure that 'damage' isn't where they've removed material to balance the rotor? Looks a bit too neat to me!

Spong said:

Are you sure that 'damage' isn't where they've removed material to balance the rotor? Looks a bit too neat to me!

Click to expand...

That would explain why I can't find any bits inside the case. The motor itself works fine, so I think you're probably right.

I've fitted a replacement window motor in my lunch hour today in the work car park and I now have a working driver's window. The fact that I could do this in the work car park means this can be classed as a super easy job.

This is the connector on the body of the old motor.


on the new motor this cable doesn't have the connector on the right, it is just attached directly to the motor.


A few tips that might help someone else in the future.

• If you're going to cut through your vapour barrier and plan to tape it closed again, make sure you cut it such that your tape doesn't interfere with any of the fittings for the door card.
• There is a white clip just below the door release lever that holds the window motor connector, if you pop this out you can pull the connectors through the hole below that to make detaching and reattaching easier.
• Make sure the cable doesn't go round the back of the channel that the window runs in or it will obstruct the window from moving down.

Thanks for confirming the part number Brian.

If I get a chance I may dismantle the window motor gearing to see if I can figure out what actually broke.

Steve