Wierd EAS compressor problem . . .

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FURTHER UPDATE - gave up trying to remove the armature from the bearing, ground off the distortion on the end of the shaft from hitting it, fiddled the brushes back to replace the end plate and put it all back together.

Used a little vaseline on the seal which made it a little easier to move, left the piston square in the cylinder overnight to 'accustom' the seal to it's new shape, and test ran it. Smooth and quiet for a couple of minutes, good air pressure, then it suddenly got very noisy. Took it all apart again and discovered the retaining ring had loosened and was hitting the head of the pump. The seal had cracked a quarter of the way around the base, (first 2 pics). Decided to compare cross sections of the old and new seals - third pic.
In cutting them realised the new one is much harder and less flexible than the old one (I'm convinced it's nylon, not teflon) and is dimensionally inaccurate, the 'base' is nearly twice as thick as the original, hence it's refusal to let the retainer sit flush with the piston top.
I've emailed these pix to the seller (LOCOSER LTD. T/A nonstopauto in Leicester - 99% pos feedback on over 111,000 sales) for a response/refund and ordered a replacement from another supplier.

The saga continues . . .
 

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odyssey said:
FURTHER UPDATE - gave up trying to remove the armature from the bearing, ground off the distortion on the end of the shaft from hitting it, fiddled the brushes back to replace the end plate and put it all back together.

Used a little vaseline on the seal which made it a little easier to move, left the piston square in the cylinder overnight to 'accustom' the seal to it's new shape, and test ran it. Smooth and quiet for a couple of minutes, good air pressure, then it suddenly got very noisy. Took it all apart again and discovered the retaining ring had loosened and was hitting the head of the pump. The seal had cracked a quarter of the way around the base, (first 2 pics). Decided to compare cross sections of the old and new seals - third pic.
In cutting them realised the new one is much harder and less flexible than the old one (I'm convinced it's nylon, not teflon) and is dimensionally inaccurate, the 'base' is nearly twice as thick as the original, hence it's refusal to let the retainer sit flush with the piston top.
I've emailed these pix to the seller (LOCOSER LTD. T/A nonstopauto in Leicester - 99% pos feedback on over 111,000 sales) for a response/refund and ordered a replacement from another supplier.

The saga continues . . .
Click to expand...

You may like to look at my recommendations for retainer security in my EAS "How to"
 
Yet another update . . .

Got it back in the car, went up and down fine, went for a run, after a couple of miles, intermittent heavy vibration when pump runs. Bugger. :(

Out and apart again, seems like the counterweight grub screw was maybe not accurately aligned to the flat and had allowed some movement - ie. the original bloody problem!

Put it back on very carefully and test ran it. Good pressure but I can still (only just) hold a finger over the outlet and the pump slows significantly.

Re-checked reed valves - it's impossible to see just how well the exhaust reed sits over the O ring because its at the bottom of the pump head body. From Wammers how to:- And set the backing reed about 2 mm from the exhaust reed at the toe. Just to clarify, this is the max distance the thicker reed is bent out from the thinner one at its end furthest from the retaining screw

The inlet reed is a puzzle, when I opened the pump originally, the thinner reed was fitted over the top of the shorter thicker one, similar to the arrangement shown on the bottom of page 4 of this document:-
http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-Cseal-Install.pdf

and at 6m37s into Cory Wilson's video here:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0AC38p7Bf0

and in this photo http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attac...-pressure-signal-constantly-high-img_2573.jpg.

Reading Wammers' how to yet again, suggests these are all incorrect . . .

The inlet reed should be dead flat and sit flush on the head, no air gap between head and reed. If you hold it up to a lamp you can check this. Backing reed should be set with a slight gap at toe to allow inlet reed to move freely under suction, but not over flex.

Logic would seem to be on Wammers side in terms of sealing the inlet hole on the compression stroke - my question is, what is a 'slight gap'? - half a mm? Less? More? Currently the backing reed is completely flat.

Sorry this has turned into such a bloody saga, but I think I'm nearly there now, thanks again for all the help and suggestions.

Alastair
 
Last edited:
odyssey said:
Yet another update . . .

Got it back in the car, went up and down fine, went for a run, after a couple of miles, intermittent heavy vibration when pump runs. Bugger. :(

Out and apart again, seems like the counterweight grub screw was maybe not accurately aligned to the flat and had allowed some movement - ie. the original bloody problem!

Put it back on very carefully and test ran it. Good pressure but I can still (only just) hold a finger over the outlet and the pump slows significantly.

Re-checked reed valves - it's impossible to see just how well the exhaust reed sits over the O ring because its at the bottom of the pump head body. From Wammers how to:- And set the backing reed about 2 mm from the exhaust reed at the toe. Just to clarify, this is the max distance the thicker reed is bent out from the thinner one at its end furthest from the retaining screw

The inlet reed is a puzzle, when I opened the pump originally, the thinner reed was fitted over the top of the shorter thicker one, similar to the arrangement shown on the bottom of page 4 of this document:-
http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-Cseal-Install.pdf

and at 6m37s into Cory Wilson's video here:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0AC38p7Bf0

and in this photo http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attac...-pressure-signal-constantly-high-img_2573.jpg.

Reading Wammers' how to yet again, suggests these are all incorrect . . .

The inlet reed should be dead flat and sit flush on the head, no air gap between head and reed. If you hold it up to a lamp you can check this. Backing reed should be set with a slight gap at toe to allow inlet reed to move freely under suction, but not over flex.

Logic would seem to be on Wammers side in terms of sealing the inlet hole on the compression stroke - my question is, what is a 'slight gap'? - half a mm? Less? More? Currently the backing reed is completely flat.

Sorry this has turned into such a bloody saga, but I think I'm nearly there now, thanks again for all the help and suggestions.

Alastair
Click to expand...

Follow my instructions the others are incorrect. Do use a small amount of silicone to locate exhaust O'ring. Make sure the reed sits flat onto it. With a 2 mm gap from it at toe of backing reed. Longer reed should sit perfectly flush with head as described. Backing reed should have a slight gap at toe to allow long reed to flex easily on inlet but not over flex. Maybe 0.25 mm if you want a definition of slight gap. Backing reed on inlet completely flat is no problem i just like to let the long reed flex over more of it's length which means the piston has slightly less sucking to do. Bit more efficient i think. Just to add if you have a 2 mm gap from exhaust backing reed to sealing reed as O'ring is only 1.78 mm thick if not secured in position with silicone it can fall out. Good luck
 
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Thankyou Wammers!

Can I suggest a couple of additional quotes for your sig :D:D:D

"Follow my instructions the others are incorrect."

Wammers - the definitive answer.

Alastair
 
Just..to throw something in there. I discovered when doing mine that a slightly lower voltage supplied to the compressor when testing will let you cover the pipe with your finger and it'll slow down. With good voltage, it's pretty much impossible and it doesn't slow down.
 
domino said:
Just..to throw something in there. I discovered when doing mine that a slightly lower voltage supplied to the compressor when testing will let you cover the pipe with your finger and it'll slow down. With good voltage, it's pretty much impossible and it doesn't slow down.
Click to expand...

Well it does make reasonable sense that when you test something you use the same voltage that it would be getting in use. Testing it on the car is the best method. That way you know the thermal cut out is working and if the compressor is operating correctly. It should run all day connected to positive and negative on a bench but that is not a definitive test specially if the battery used is below par.
 
Thanks Domino - I'd wondered about that - I used my battery charger for testing, assuming it was 12v @ 4amps. I've just checked it and it outputs 9.6v . . .

I didn't check it using the car battery when reinstalling, and it seems to be working OK at the moment. Might do that later today if I have time.

The upside of all this is that I can now remove and strip the pump, in the dark and with one hand tied behind my back in less than 5 minutes! :cool:


A
 
Battery charger with 9.6v output?

Er, what good is that, exactly?

Don't think you can be blamed for expecting it to function correctly.:)
 
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