Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,886
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
No need to clamp anything but you must go through the depressurization routine. You will not get more than a dribble of fluid out.
P38A Why brakes don't seem right
- Thread starter Montyjohn
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 12,628
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 877
- Location
- Manchester
Prep new unit, do the depressurisation routine, remove old unit (ours needed a strap wrench as couldn't get enough access and force on the fitting), new unit straight on and screwed tight. Can't remember if there were any special pressurisation steps but RAVE will say. Ours transformed the brakes (bruised wife's shoulder with seat belt on first hard application they were so much better), had a very slight hint of seep from the joint where it mounts after the test drive so just eased it about 5-10 degrees tighter and no issues since.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
No. Strap-wrench to take the old one off and then tighten by hand back on, or nip with the strap-wrench if you have bad wrists.
You don't need to bleed the brakes but if you haven't done it in 2 years then definitely do a full flush as per RAVE. The last thing you want is the internals in that modulator failing.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,886
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
+1 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ok, so swapped it this morning (dead easy with an oil filter chain) and I have mixed results.
When not using the brakes and the ignition on, after initial pressurisation I didn't hear the pump click on in a 10 minute period. Then got bored of waiting.
Before it clicked on every 4 minutes so improvement there.
Next, when braking, pump clicks on when being used for the third time. So I now get two pumps without the motor kicking in. Was clicking on with every brake application before so again, good improvement.
But, after being sat for 2 hours when ignition turned on, it primed for 20 seconds so its still loosing pressure. I assume it shouldn't need to prime at all following a short rest?
I haven't bled it yet but assume this isn't the issue.
Someone mentioned about potential for a duff one way valve. Is that the next likely thing to change?
Anybody know where it is? Or is it integral to the pump?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,886
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Thy do bleed down a bit. Air in the system or old fluid can cause problems.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
What Datatek said or possibly a pinhole leak somewhere. Up behind the fuel tank is the favourite place for the lines to go. If they're original and it is over 20 years old (and they all are!) then you're on borrowed time and they need replacing.
