Who said this was a good idea??

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Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie
Full Member
Fecking P!$$ Holes....

In total today I have driven the car for almost 4 hours and loving every minute of it....

3 minutes from home, the dreaded beeping and warning light on deshboard...

HDC Inactive, Air Susp. Inactive, DSC Light on ABS Light on....

Research, research research....

Low Battery - Nope strong as an ox
ABS Cabling chaffed - Nope looks good.

Start car with wheels straight ahead - no fault
Turn Wheels 1 turn, fault appears...hmmmmmm

Start car with wheels turned, fault appears immediatly.....hmmmm

Put wheels centre and restart car, no fault.....

Bugg*r, Feck, B*ll*cks....I'm am thinking it is the Steering Angle Sensor....

OK RAVE loaded, where is this little fecker? - right in the middle of the Steering coloumn....OK how do you get at it? - Remove Steering wheel, Lower Fascia Shroud 9involving removing lots of trim bits and bobs) withdraw steering coloumn, and remove sensor....refit etc.

About 4 hours work to get it out and 4 hours back I have heard....

Start car, and turn steering lock to lock, to reset the DSC system to learn the steering angles.

Then it is a trip to LR to get the SAS coded for the car....hhuurrrrummppphhh....

Anyone know if I replace the sensor, can I drive it to LR to get coded, or can I not drive it at all until this is done??

Fantastic drive though, just a bit gutted...and of course the Gold Plus warranty doesn't cover it...
 
Bollocks, drop it at their door and get them to do it. Obviously they new about the fault. Bstards.

Or live with it and sort it out yourself, being an able and experienced chap I am sure you will sort it out.

Cracking motor, after one too.
 
Have the same problem been driving it for a couple of weeks no issues. I didn't think the SAS needed coding after fitting can anyone confirm, if so will let the dealer do the work?
 
Ah well, for the price paid, a couple of squeaky bum events might come up, but you'd still be quids in :)

As the fault did not appear for a few hours, I suppose it is possible that the dealer was not aware (he may not have tested it for that long), he might be cool if you take it back and explain. They probably have a sub con electrician that could take a look.

Hope you sort it, just a shame to spoil your fun so soon :rolleyes:

Stu
 
I am sure the dealer was unaware as I took it for over an hours drive in various road conditions, including duel c/ways, Town roads, wiggly country lanes, bumpy tracks....then hid down a side road in the middle of nowhere and crawled all over it without anyone to disturb me...

Then when I picked it up, I drove to a petrol station - closed, onto another filled up, then over to Tesco to pick up dinner, then down through the Surrey Hills to Dorking to pick up the other half, then back up the A25 towards Guildford, through Jacobs Well, then on to home - so in total about 3.75 hours without a single fault, then 3 minutes from home, bells and whistles....

So I am sure if I take it back they will (and rightly so) say there was nothing wrong with it (which there wasn't)....a case of Caveat Emptor - let the buyer beware - when it comes to used equipment, at the time and point of sale, the goods where as described and in working condition.....

It is still drivable while I figure out the next move....just fecking annoying.
 
the dealer is responsible for repairing any faults wether or not you bought a warranty.it is their problem. they either come and collect the car or assign a main dealer to correct the fault.
 
You now know that the L322 is no more trouble free than a P38, just several times more expensive and complicated to fix. Hard luck.
If it had happened 3-6 months down the line, no bother - it's a Range Rover they throw hissy fits, but in the first 4 hours....that took me by surprise.....

The L322 is a fantastic car to drive, and yes just as reliable as the P38....
 
It does have a warranty, but reading the list of bits covered, the DSC and Steering Angle Sensor isn't included which is typical....


Sale of goods act and merchantable quality is where I would start. Does not matter that the fault was not present when you tested it, it's not an "as seen tested and approved" private sale:)
 
warranty or not, the trader that sold the vehicle is obligated by law to repair the fault. no much he shouts or swears about it, the sales of goods act means he has the responsibilty to make the car fit for purpose... no getting out of it for him.
 
When my 4.6 when Pete Tong after 3 days of ownership, I took in back. Only had a bronze warranty. Got a new engine block. Can't remember if the dealer was able to claim on warranty, but at the end of the day, even if it wasn't warranty covered, legal rights would have had it replaced - not as described (verbally or in advert) / not fit for normal purpose.
 
most of those warranties are not worth the paper they are written on, as it has to be for something that breaks, not wears... dealers try to say they are only responsible for 3 months, but trading standards say up to 2 years.
 
I'm with the general consensus that this is the dealer's problem - considering the car had a failure so close to the time of purchase, as people have correctly stated, a car with a major fault is "not fit for purpose" under the sale of good act. Other than that it sounds like a lovely car which you enjoy driving - good luck.
 
Since most cars don't have a steering angle sensor, I wouldn't expect it to be a part mentioned as 'covered' by a 'generic' warrantee... but that doesn't mean it ISN'T covered, surely?

Does the warrantee specifically exclude sensors for electronic systems?

And... knowing bugger-all about L322s... wtf does the steering angle sensor do, anyway? (smart arse replies about 'sensing the steering angle' not required!!)
 
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...8IzCDw&usg=AFQjCNFoMgqaY-xLbT3tag7pHC0SKV3TOw


although this is for an E38 7 series bmw, its the same, as the L322 is basically a 7 series .

Ooo... looks interesting... so it appears you DO have to make a trip to the dealer to have it coded if you replace it.

Reading through that, (and knowing BMWs, having owned a few) - it MAY be worth pulling the power supply fuse for the SAS, or disconnecting the battery (it may have more than one power supply route) and try to force it to recalibrate? You'd have to make sure the wheels were in the exact straight-ahead position before doing either.... just a suggestion, and don't really know if it would cure the problem or not... but free, and may be worth a try?
 
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