which freelander?

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jw1951

New Member
Posts
9
Location
kent
Hi All
I'm looking for your expertise.
I am thinking of getting a freelander, and have a budget of £3k, I appreciate its not much and, you get what you pay for, had a discovery 20 years ago lasted for years, all I need is a run around must be auto, is the td4 reliable,and what are the running costs like. I'm 68 retired and obviously not a boy racer, live in Kent. Any advice appreciated, and where is the better places to look, other than autotrader
Many Thanks Indeed all
 
For £3k you'd be able to get a pretty spectacular FL1, in fact you'd be able to get a perfectly good one for less than £2k giving you the resources to do whatever upgrades, replacements you need.
 
Many Thanks TSR2, where would be the best places to look,am happy to travel I live in Kent, is there anything to look out for fault wise £3k is tops £2k even better, I always have them checked over and serviced

Thanks again
 
I’d also have a look at
Tests new Freelander 1 owners should do on their car
Posted in the Freelander forum under technical archive which will tell you about things to look out for

And welcome here :)
 
If its an auto you're after then you only have the choice of TD4 and V6.

The V6 consumes an awful lot of fuel, but if you're only doing low mileage it may be an option. I've never driven one, but they're supposed to be very nice. If they go wrong though, they can often be a right bugger to fix. To be honest, I'm not sure if you wouldn't be better off getting a V8 D2 because they don't burn that much more fuel.

The TD4 is a is pretty reliable, on a run will do 40mpg, but an auto around town will drop into the high-to-mid 20's. Its a BMW engine, but don't believe the hype that that makes it any better! It is pretty good, but suffers problems related to the common rail fuel injection - which I suppose all common rail engines would suffer from (and that's any this century!). The fuel lift pump and regulators and sensors relating to fuel pressure do give problems, but are fairly easy/cheap to resolve.

For your budget you should get a great car. F1s are great value for money. They are reliable and when things go wrong there's lots of suppliers and parts are cheap. They're also easy cars to work on if you intend fiddling yourself. I say this also coming from many years running Discoveries, the Freelander is so much easier to work. I've had my (Rover L Series diesel) Freelander for 9 years now and its been boringly reliable!

The important thing when buying Freelanders is the transmission - not the gearbox, but everything past that. It is not like a Disco with a center diff. The prop shaft to the rear axle is a direct drive (like having the Disco in diff lock). If the prop went straight to the rear diff, that would obviously be a very big No-No - but the Freelander has a Viscous Coupling splitting the prop into 2 pieces which allows 'so much' slip - enough for turning and slight discrepencies in tyres. It will though 'lock up' at higher rates of slip - eg when the front wheel lose grip - this automatically enables the 4WD (AWD really) capability. This works really well (I say that having driven Discos) but causes problems if not maintained as the VCU can get to tight or tyres can push the VCU into essentially locking up and all the problems that entails. So regular checks on the VCU and tyres should be performed and all 4 tyres should be the exact same make and model. Have a read of this...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

Obviously the points raised there are important when buying/choosing your Freelander. As people don't know much about them, you should always budget that it will need a new VCU (and you might as well throw in its support bearings) - so about £300. You should make sure it has exactly the same tyres on all 4 corners, if 2 have been replaced, they need to go on the rear. That's not just a budgeting issue for tyres, if they are wrong, its a worry for the transmission's integrity. Have a look under the car - there should be prop shafts, as well as the exhaust, going front to back - if there's not, its running 2WD. Similarly, its a good idea to jack up (just) a rear wheel and see if it turns fairly easily - it should only turn a couple of inches, if it turns freely, the drive to the props has been removed and its once again running 2WD. If you can, and its difficult, change the oil in the IRD (front diff), if it comes out with a metallic sheen, that's the bearings worn down and it'll need a recon.

This makes it sound like a right dogs dinner buying a Freelander - a lemon you might say! However, check the tyres, check it has props, check the props are connected (jacking wheel) and take it for a drive. Make sure you take tight turns, make sure you reverse on full lock and make sure there are no clunks, bangs or untoward activity. Some slight drag ('braking effect') can be expected reversing on full lock, but it should be hardly noticeable. An alternative is to get a really good condition one with low mileage but horrendous rattles and bangs for under £1K - put a new VCU, recon IRD (about £700), tyres and probably a few other bits and pieces and its good as new (proviso the rear diff hasn't gone to).

I should add that running a Freelander 2WD isn't the end of the world - it depends what you want out of it. Mine's 2WD, I miss the 4WD, but its a great reliable, cheap to run family wagon. You may have issues with insurance and MOT though.
 
Many Thanks TSR2, where would be the best places to look,am happy to travel I live in Kent, is there anything to look out for fault wise £3k is tops £2k even better, I always have them checked over and serviced

Thanks again
As your of a maturer age I would take someone or a AA or RAC chap to check the vehicles over mainly Propshafts and VCU. Tyres must be all the same. Check all electrics work windows buttons. Varieties will be available V6 1.8 PETROL and 2.0 DIESEL TD4. 3 DOORS OR 5 DOORS. Nodge will be along shortly unless already on. the man is a Sage.
 
 
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Sorry, Just had to
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Thanks for the replies, colour not really fussed as long as the body is reasonable for its age , I have an immaculate mini cooper 54 plate auto to part ex for it, appreciate what you say about being of mature age, I always take my sons with me and knowledgable people, have seen a soft top near Bradford for 1500, but its a bit too far
 
Is there much difference between the SE and HSE?
I've currently got a TD4 auto SE, with custom pleather seat trims.
The SE is generally better value than the HSE, which is often overpriced. I'd go for the waggon (5 door) as they're better equipped for the same spec than the 3 door.
The difference between the HSE waggon over the SE waggon are:

Sun roof.
Out of date nav stereo, but has HK speakers/ amplifier, so it sounds better.
Full punched leather seats.
17" wheels, with silly low profile tyres.
That's about it, but I think the HSE gets the the winter pack as standard (heated front screen, and fuel burning heater). But it's an option on the lesser model's. I rejected any FL1 that didn't have the winter pack when I was looking.

If I was only doing minimal miles per week, I'd buy the V6, as it's so much nicer to drive than the TD4 diesel. However the V6 only does 19 MPG on my commute, so I swapped my lovely V6 for a TD4, which gains my an extra 10 MPG, although a less pleasing drive for my trouble.
 
Hi Nodge, many thanks for that, still looking around, and have heeded all the advice, also on the lookout at the discovery, where would I ask about the disco on the site
 
My HSE(2006) didn't come with the winter pack :/

Even though the ad said it did, then the dealer later said the ad was autofilled!
 
My HSE(2006) didn't come with the winter pack :/

I think it became an option on all models at some point. I rejected loads of SE spec facelifts, because they were missing the winter pack. I don't look at the HSE, as they were much more expensive, for what I considered pointless extras.
 
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